La chasse aux phares

We left lovely Angers at 7.30 in cool conditions that got cooler the farther north we went. Despite this we resolutely donned shorts. Optimists to the end. Breakfast in Château Gontier - a fine town with splendid Town Hall.

Then plodded up through Mayenne and Orne  and Calvados to Manche. Somewhere just south of Vire we found ourselves behind a Spanish refrigerated lorry for some while. A plaque on its tailgate said it was carrying Category 3 produce, unsuitable for human consumption. We pondered just what this might be. Obviously not foodstuffs but what else needs refrigerating? As we neared Vire (home of the dreaded Andouille) we became more and more convinced that it was indeed destined for the Andouille factory. Shudder. What was it carrying? Blood from Bullfights!?

At St Vaast it was chilly and windy but we eventually found a cosy restaurant for moules frites/mackerel fillets. Both delicious. Then lighthouses... First one a brisk stroll down the breakwater, then another across the bay, the giant at Gatteville, two in Barfleur and some minor ones spotted en route.

Now on board the Barfleur ship. Heaving with folk. Sunny but I have my jeans for when we near Blighty. Byeee!

In Angers...look back

It rained last night in Cahors! Then quite a chilly drive over the Lot until we descended into the Loire Valley and the sun returned.

Now in Angers right by the castle and the river. What a nice city! Delicious crèpes for supper.

Up country

Kyriad Cahors yet again. But first the doings of last night and today. Our free concert in La Place des Barrys was wonderful.

We sat  in Louise and Jon's little garden on the square with champagne and 'light refreshments'. Friede and Edeltraut joined us, and later Jocelyne too.

The Canadian ladies a capella choir (Ensemble Laude from Victoria ) were so good. They sang a mix of native American, folk, African and sacred songs. Pitch perfect. Gareth Malone would have been in his element.

Part way through one of the choir had a coughing fit and she hid at the back of the stage trying not to choke. So as I know how vile this can be I rushed over with a glass of fizzy water. At the end of the concert she came to find us to say thank you and we invited her in to chat. Edeltraut and Friede don't speak brilliant English so they were struggling. But then, and what were the chances of this, she broke into fluent German. Her parents had emigrated from Hamburg when she was seven years old.
It was rather a late night.








But we were all packed and the house was clean so off at the dot of 7 am, waving to dear Mme Vrastor. Then a bit of a stop-start on the A9 to arrive in Mèze for breakfast with Jo and Peter in the square. Left there at middday and got to Cahors around 4.30. It is still very hot!

Fête

Oh yes, it's fête fever again. Wednesday saw the arrival of Guignol and his creepy puppet friends, and this weekend it's the dodgems and candy floss and 'mousse' party. Why? What possible fun is it getting covered in foam?

The Danes and Americans have fled, Linda and Paul have escaped to a music festival in Annecy. We leave on Monday. Mind you if you were Deb and Gary wouldn't you ship out if you had this in front of your door? Theirs are the blue shutters behind the dodgems.

Sablet from Rasteau

Yesterday was unbearably sultry - got up to nearly 35 on the terrace - in the shade. We managed a bit of a walk down the outside Vacqueyras before skulking back. We were promised a storm in the evening, but hours of anxiously watching the clouds across to the north proved frustrating -  lightning flashed behind the hills then moved away, missing us. It did rain though, and this morning it was fresh and windy. Temperatures a good ten degrees cooler.

Time for a final lunch at Roaix. Delicious duck parmentier and baked fish aioli, plus a free coffee from our lovely owner. We will so miss this weekly treat. It was a beautiful afternoon and as we were only down the road, we finished off with a quick walk round the Rasteau vines.

Terrific views, blustery cooling wind.

The emerald pool

Today we have not been out! Nice in our upstairs and terrace just daydreaming. Well, I did pop up the hill for bread and ham but that's all. But as we gazed over the parapet, shock horror - just look at the colour of the pool!












Compare and contrast...

Drôme from home

Here be Gigondas

After a fairly stormy weekend during which we only managed a market visit and a walk round St André, it turned slightly cooler today.

So off early to LaGarde Adhémar for a walk in the woods. 

The trail wound up and down in the shade with an occasional view over the valley. Power stations, tgv line, motorway and the hills beyond.

The theme of the walk was a series of natural stone water troughs on the edge of the hillside. 

No idea of their date but we also came across a 12 th century chapel. Part of a monastery complex in the valley.

The walk took about 2.5 hours but it was mostly quite easy until we got to the incredibly steep road back into the village.

At which point we sank into the shady seats of the Absinthe cafe for ice cream and coffee.

Absinthe flavour for Adrian.

There is also lovely botanic garden under the ramparts that we have been to before. Fabulous views and peaceful, hidden flower beds and medicinal plants. We sat on the walls and watched TGVs speeding north and south below us.