Yes! THE Lighthouse. Cordouan lui-même.
We will set out at 12.30 equipped with doubtless inappropriate gear, neither of us having suitable shoes, one of us not even short trousers (not of course,me). For now we are just lazing on our terrasse waiting to go off for a late breakfast before embarcation. I will report back…
eh bien, où commencer ?! Such an action- packed day. First we deposited the car under the shady pines above the port and walked down to the square for breakfast. Then searched for a boulangerie for sandwiches. There seemed to be none but eventually one materialised - giant poulet-salade jobs were obtained. I should add…not for ready money. So far not a coin or note has left my person. Everyone takes phone payment.
Next the cathedral. 50s brutalist concrete edifice of some excellence.
It has lovely stained glass and vast space. Wonderful. Couldn’t be marred even by two coach trips from 76.
Time ticked on so we walked back to the motor, gathered rucksack of sandwiches etc and hung around on the quayside to board our vessel, the Jules Verne III. Chaps fettled ropes and stuff and eventually we all boarded. Off on the dot of 12.30. Captain looked about 25 but was obviously experienced.
The adventure began! We noticed we were towing what looked like a D Day landing craft. This was for us to disembark on once within the shallows of the lighthouse.
It all passed uneventfully until shouts went up of ‘le voici!’ and the stick-like edifice came into view. All alone in the middle of the sea, 11 kilometres from port.
Nearer and nearer it loomed. A sandbar appeared, the boat slowed and the landing craft came alongside. Half of us scrambled aboard - the rest had to wait for its return - and we bumped along through the swell until it drew up right at the entrance steps at the bottom of the tower. This ornate 16th century carved limestone confection with royal apartments that somehow survived the Allied bombardment.
And off we scrambled again, up through the watergate and into the circular enceinte. Engineer’s apartments, stores, keeper’s house etc. The keeper held forth in the large vestibule, warning not to attempt the 301 steps and seven flights in one go. As if! But as A both knows it all and doesn’t understand the lingo, I slipped away up on my own, beckoning him to follow. It was puffy going and I certainly rested up in the various huge rooms along the way. One was a chapel.
Eventually I made it. I was the first up to the top and the only one there!
Adrian soon joined me but we were still alone surveying the ocean from the top of the tower. The second landing craft was on its way.
We met the rest of our group panting up as we were on our way down🤗
It was just magic. Eventually we were collected and ferried back to our boat while the second half of our shipload had their turn.
The return was even more dramatic.
Part way back the captain announced we were detouring along the coastline at the request of the coastguard because they were looking for a bather in difficulties. And sure enough there was the helicopter circling over us and the Royan SNSM lifeboat zooming past. Just like an episode of Saving Lives at Sea. I think they found them so don’t worry. But it meant we had a really interesting tour of the coast past places we know so well from other holidays but seen from the sea.
So there you have it…another one ticked off.
We finished up with pineau and beer by the ferris wheel on the port and a glass or two of wine on our terrasse with the uneaten sandwiches! Last night in the really really lovely hotel. We probably paid for the best room but it was worth it.
Banks of white campion, corridors of coconut smelling gorse. And surfers! Just a couple, negotiating the rocky shore.
