It rained

Well we knew it would - just a matter of time really. 

Anyway before that we had an excellent stay in Ibis Budget. A new hotel with a proper separate shower room and comfy beds. All clean and sparkly! Bigger room too. And the Japanese ‘all you can eat’ down the road. We went to said eatery and eventually grasped the concept. Not exactly all you can eat but I think we could have had seconds or even thirds! I expect you are all old hands at this but my only experience of a Japanese restaurant was in Yokohama forty odd years ago… 

So, here goes. We sat down, waiter brought us a tablet ipad thing with all the dishes on it and explained (more than once) what we had to do. ie choose up to five dishes each, maximum of ten overall. Click on ‘basket’ ( just like an Amazon order), check and confirm. ipad then said the order was with the kitchen and would be delivered in…well, a countdown then appeared! And then, good god! It was like a Cheesoid (a Comedy sketch creature from David  Mitchell), or a Wallace and Gromit contraption - a cylinder with facial expression glided up to our table bearing one of the dishes. We took it off and pressed the word ‘terminer’ that had replaced the face, and the creature rolled its eyes and mouth and slid back to the kitchen.

All the dishes were fabulous, delicious and perhaps we should have had more. But I hadn’t twigged the system at this point. You had to wait 15 mins between orders and you had a maximum of five goes. I expect that was all in the overall price but at the time we thought it would be extra. Never mind, we had eaten plenty!

This morning we were waiting for it to get light but it never did. The threatened rain started at seven and thundered down in torrents. At 8.30 we decided to make a break for it and Adrian did sterling work driving out of town in zero visibility into oncoming headlights. Yikes! Eventually a bit of light appeared in the clouds and the traffic lessened. We dashed into a sleepy café in the first town we came to. Good coffee thank goodness because there was no way I was walking up the street to get croissants. We sat for a while listening to some good music on the MTV video channel that is ubiquitous in bars then reluctantly splashed back to the car. All plans of going to Contis lighthouse on the coast had long since been abandoned. We should probably have gone yesterday afternoon. No matter, we’ve been before and may again another time.

In Belin-Béliet up in the Landes we spotted a boulangerie with close by parking. The rain eased for a while as I dashed across for sandwiches. Horrors, literally. The whole shop was festooned with pretend cobwebs and various gruesome figures were dotted about, pumpkins, hags, goblins. And a hideous automaton shrieking curses in American at full volume.  Got the baguettes and retreated.

We continued at a good rate up the fast straight yellow roads and eventually got to Hourtin Plage at 12. Desolation but we did see the sea - just.

Hourtin Plage 

After that it was more of the same up to the ferry at Pointe de Grave. Quite pleasant actually. We know these roads well and will come again so it didn’t matter about the rain. Got the 3.30. It was pretty full but we’d been at the front of the queue, so no problem. And it briefly stopped raining.

Gironde ferry

The ferry nipped across in a mere 25 minutes and we were off before 4 and in Kyriad La Rochelle at 5.10. Good to be here and we are anticipating a blow out pizza/pasta in Del Arte.

On the way through the marshes we saw a couple of storks standing guard over their nest on top of a pylon.

Tomorrow will be a fast run up to Roscoff so not very interesting. We should be home late tomorrow night. Thanks for your company.

Killing time

 Once again got the timing wrong! We should have known as we’ve done this route before. So here we are in Mont de Marsan Ibis Budget carpark waiting for reception open at 5… Having already spent a couple of hours in the town walking about and having a drink. It isn’t the most thrilling of places - nice enough with a few once grand 19th century buildings in the centre like the Post Office and Hotel de Ville and the Théâtre  Municipal by the bridge. But otherwise a basic provincial town despite being the Préfecture of Les Landes Département. Rather a lot of nude bronze statues ! But the fountains are jolly- gushing forth jets of pink- coloured water for Octobre Rose (breast cancer month). November is prostate month - Novembre Bleu so I wonder if they’ll change colour then. 

And we have ear splitting roaring fighter jets taking off from the local air base, flocks of black kites circling above us, and just now Big Bertha (airbusT400 transporter) at rooftop level. Just like home! (we see the English one most days going back and forth to somewhere).

Mont de Marsan

Last night we had a very expensive but only OK meal so didn’t indulge in cassoulet after all. Don’t think we’ll eat there again although the hotel itself was fine. There were trees outside our window under which we had street parked along with everyone else. Guess who came to roost?, Delightful twittering starlings of course and it was wonderful to hear them wake up in the light at 8 and go off about their daily business. Until we looked at the cars! First stop of the day was the car wash 🤗 

Great drive across the rolling upland farmlands. Mostly along the ridge roads with long views to the Pyrenees - quite a bit of snow on the very high ones. This is a lovely part of France, clothed in sunflowers in summer, interesting little towns of Roman brick, allées of plane trees edging the roads, pretty canal banks etc. We stopped for a hot choc in Samatan but that was all. Weather still warm and sunny. We’re trying a Japanese place up the road tonight…will report back!

Le grand départ…again

 Up and out by 8. It was light and the sun was just coming over silhouetted Ventoux and the Dentelles with a ruff of mist clinging picturesquely to the flanks. For once we took the Autoroute as far as Sète then down through the Picpoul vines to Marseillan - about 2 hours. There we had a very nice coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice and croissant each alongside the boats. Rather too many English ‘boaty’ people as ever. It was actually quite quiet despite half term. Then across the port to Noilly for a three pack assortment!

Marseillan

We’d loads of time, having somewhat overstimated how long the drive would take and were in danger of getting to Castelnaudary by lunchtime. Not that we were planning to eat seeing as we are anticipating Cassoulet for supper! So I rerouted us via Béziers and Narbonne to the Étang de Bages and our beloved Peyriac de Mer. Blimey! what a change here. Designated paid carparks and residents only parking round the water! It was heaving too. So we drove round onto the island and somewhat fearful (me) left the car by the sluice gate, and went for a walk up to the salty pool. No one swimming, not many walking either, and in fact here it was very quiet so maybe the crowds were all at the cafés. Can’t blame people for visiting because it is so fabulous. Lots of flamingoes.

Peyriac de Mer

Final leg was through the southern Corbières and up to Carcassonne and then Castelnaudary where we bought tins of confit etc at considerable expense! And to kill time before the hotel opened we walked down the Canal du Midi to the bassin and sat in the sun watching a swan preening itself, totally oblivious to passers by, scooters, bikes, runners. We once watched coypu swimming across at dusk to be fed. Lovely spot and such an amenity for the town. Same as Marseillan though…it attracts the boaty folk! Every barge was Anglophone.

We are in the Hotel du Centre et du Lauragais, famous for its cassoulet, so might indulge. Adam and Adrian ate one here ages ago and pronounced it ‘good’. Not got any smart clothes to change into, mind!

Canal du Midi Castelnaudary

Up the airy mountain

 Another glorious day. Off betimes to Bédoin to get there before the crowds. We think it’s half term so there might be hordes. All the way there heading east, we were dazzled by sunlight and Ventoux stood out clear as a bell. The carpark was not full, good sign. And in fact the market was just pleasantly bustling. All good. Got croissants and sat ourselves down in the little café behind the rotisserie and enjoyed our breakfast. The troops appeared as we were returning to the car so that was good timing!

We just had to go up the hill, it was beckoning. And really the drive up through the forest was magical. Autumn colours under way and every now and then there was a shower of gold as leaves fell down, like someone tipping out a bag of coins. The temperature dropped and the wind got up as we got out at the plateau. Brr. And a cloud decided to come and shroud the summit! Didn’t last though and we were rewarded with a fabulous view of snow capped peaks way over to the north east.

Of course we had to visit The Shrine - beloved bench. This involved today’s scree slope scramble - up from the parking area by the radar dome. We had it to ourselves and patted what little is left of its slats, hoping it will continue to survive.

View from Ventoux

Rasteau

 Having vacuumed the middle floor I was ready for the Sunday Stroll in warm sunshine and windless air. Off we drove to Rasteau. A shaft of sun had been illuminating the village all morning, calling to us from across the valley. But when we got there, oh dear. No parking. Rasteau too was having the annual breast cancer event. Pink umbrellas were the decoration of choice here as usual and they were having a giant Aligot feast in the square - 20 euros a pop.

So instead we headed out round the back of the hill and through Roaix to another lovely viewpoint and a short walk up the lane into pebble strewn vines. I admit I took fright at the distant sight of an orange hi viz vest - it IS Sunday after all - and returned down the hill before Adrian.

Into Rasteau the back way, where we parked and walked down to the bar for the usual. Then watched the happy throng tuck into their barbecued Toulouse sausage and mash. Not any old mash though… Aligot has to be my absolute favourite - potatoes, creme fraîche, cantal cheese, garlic. See the man making it in his cauldron. That’s the way to do it!

Making the aligot

Final Saturday

 After the passing storm on Thursday night all is sweetness and light again. Warm, sunny and calm.

Yesterday we did very little until the afternoon when we stirred our stumps and drove to Gravillas for the last wine supplies and then on to Visan and back over what they like to call ‘la montagne’ to Buisson. We had a short walk on the top through familiar vines to an iconic pine tree that is sadly looking very dead. Dramatic cloudscapes. 

In Buisson we discovered an interesting photo exhibition in the restored Tour de Guet. A joint project by local and Brasilian photographers - strange. But Buisson is a bit quirky. The main area by the fountain has been taken over by the bistrot and furnished with what appears to be the contents of a house clearance! A motley collection of tables and sofas and chairs.

Today the gradual gathering together of Stuff began. Bed changed - that sort of thing. For once we didn’t go to the market because we really don’t need anything. But it was too nice a day to do nothing so after lunch off we set to Cairanne for a bidon to keep us going until we leave! Then to Tulette for petrol. And then to Bouchet intending to have a coffee in the Auberge. However… the village had a strangely large amount of cars around. No parking spaces by the river. And it turned out there was a Salon des Saveurs de la Drôme going on in the Abbaye. What luck. Loads of people tasting and buying. I waited patiently for five or so local pomegranates to be squeezed into my paper cup - so delicious! And got some sheep milk faisselles. The solitary chap in the photo below was one of the Confrérie des Caillettes - the Guild of Faggots!

Bouchet

Finally we did get to Ste Cécile after all and had a drink in the Bar du Commerce because they were in the sun and L’Union wasn’t. We are fair weather customers. The town was full of folk in pink tee shirts and there was brassière bunting round the square in front of the hôtel de ville. Breast Cancer event.

Twas on a Wednesday evening the plumber came to call

 Don’t faint! Yes we actually got a plumber to come within living memory. There had been a slight leak from the inlet pipe to the cistern. Nothing serious but you know, these things should get fixed. So I'd been to Brando’s and booked a visit for sometime this week. Chap would phone when he was en route so I had to keep phone switched on and to hand. This is why the blessed thing was in my back pocket when using the loo! I don't usually take it into the bathroom. Anyway that meant I had to give them Adrian’s phone number and I was carting his device everywhere, but with great care.

Wednesday morning was not looking promising as we did the market. Much reduced number of stalls and grey clouds. We sat in the café with our usual, watching people and delivery vehicles, then returned via Suzette to deposit vast quantities of unwanted books. And then we discovered a new walk on a road off opposite the back of the Dentelles. One to remember for next time. Now, would you risk eating this? Thought not!

Magic mushroom

By now it was bright and we just had to zoom to Roaix to sit out. Every opportunity must be grabbed!

Plumber phoned at about 4 saying he’d be an hour. It struck 6 and still no sign so we were about to give up when at that very moment he arrived. They work late in France. Less than half an hour later he’d changed the washers, and fitted a brand new water saving flush and a new float valve. Very smart.

Very warm last night - never went below 21 degrees and today it’s over 25. Strong southerly wind and heavy white clouds but sunny as well. Final plat du jour in Villedieu because they are having two weeks off.

And we too are soon off. Next Wednesday in fact. Mostly because we realised the clocks go back on 26th and we don’t want to be driving in the dark at 3 or 4 pm. So a quick change of hotel and ferry dates was required. Dear Kyriad in La Rochelle was the only one I’d booked as a non refundable, but they most kindly agreed to change the date for no extra charge because we are ‘clients fidèles’. We will be home in Bullsmead about 10 pm on 26th just in time to gain back the hour!

Mr Boukersanna is going to paint our windows while we are away.

And breathe…

 After the excitements of yesterday we felt the need for some scenery, so where better than the Toulourenc Valley. That lovely road round the north side of Ventoux with is trees and meadows. And..ahem… rather a lot of overnight campervans in lay-bys! Just at the beginning, they soon faded, and we were mostly alone on the road. The colours are now turning -yellows and reds- and it was so warm. Our objective was Savoillans. A small village that in season is quite busy with rural activity holidays. Today though all was still and virtually empty. Just the post van and a lady walking along with her shopping bag. I sat in the sun  on a bench by the auberge and boulangerie listening to the rustling leaves and the water in the lavoir. Bliss.

Savoillans

It was almost midday. The inevitable decision! Did we go on to Montbrun or back to Brantes? Brantes won. It’s a jumble of precariously planted stone houses clinging to the hillside with views to die for - maybe literally🙀 A walk up through the cobbled streets admiring the new crèperie (closed) and the pottery. Not bothering to find the artisan brewery. And eventually to a little terrace café overlooking the village and the mountain behind. We were the only customers apart from a gaggle of lycra clad cyclists who came and used the loos! Really warm. Delicious omelettes, even more delicious desserts, wine and coffee  €45. 

We ended up failing to get on the road to Ventoux out of Sault! Really - how many times have we been there so how did we miss it. Instead we wound our way to Bédoin, picked up 6 of their best rouge and back home via Caromb and a Gros Pain.

Don’t drop your mobile down the loo Mrs Worthington!

 Tis The Curse of The Mellings…my sister did this some months ago but did I heed the warning? Oh no. Phone in back pocket of jeans and you can guess the rest! How stupid of her I scoffed. Well who's laughing now, not me. Phone was retrieved -you know, you CAN do it in an emergency! I have fished for car keys in the past. Anyway it looks like the machine is dead, certainly not functioning at the moment. I was about to get a newer model anyway but not until back in UK as obviously I will need a sim card with my current number on it. So monetarily it isn’t a huge blow - just the In Convenience (geddit!). I can hotspot on Adrian’s until then.

And it had been such a successful day up to then. I had taken Adrian to the doctors about his stained thigh. If you don’t already know about this from himself here’s a summary. He had a sort of red patch just before we left UK and thought it just a bruise starting. But it has got bigger and bigger until it now almost goes right round. Not painful but a bit concerning especially as it’s now a grubby purple. Lyme Disease says I. Pshaw he responds. But really all those tick bites he gets…So we get up at 7 and are in the doctors’ waiting queue at 7.45. It’s first come first served if you are not registered and haven’t an appointment. Waiting room doors open at 8.30, various patients are called in and eventually come out. They seem to get 30 minutes here. Receptionist only wanted the GHIC.

We were getting a bit despondent after two hours, when suddenly Mr Smith was called! Lovely doctor, who we’d seen last time. She asked what the issue was and before she so much as had a look she asked ‘Do you have deer? Sounds like Lyme Disease!’ Yeah… and so she decided it was, once she examined the area. Penicillin prescribed and notes made on the computer plus advice as to what to do.

€26+ by card at reception and down the road to the Pharmacie for two weeks’ worth of penicillin - (strawberry flavour) - €24.49.

That’s not Manderley it’s the Northern Lights!

Oh yes dear reader, it was not just the UK who got amazing celestial disco lights last week. Even here in the Deep South can you believe! see below

Scroll back a few days. We’ve had glorious clear sunny days and warmth since Tuesday.  Wednesday you already know about. Thursday we toddled off to the so-called natural wetland near Châteauneuf for a walk. It was lovely but, well …No Water. In fact the étang was dry as a bone and newly mown with just clumps of reeds like desert oases. Strange. Lots of dragonflies however and a lizard or two. Also a large flock of swallows skimming about, presumably stocking up before they head to Africa.  Far too many magpies around everywhere. We fetched up in Caderousse, quiet as the grave, for a coffee and beer.

The étang

Friday we went again to Brando’s for some essential tool or other. The festivities were still on, place heaving, and today a man serving up omelettes and frites from the promotion of the day - a fryer of some sort. We escaped to the relative sanity of Vaison itself and to see a small exhibition of Ventoux photos. The little gallery was manned by a young chap (one of the photographers) and as we were admiring the works he said ‘come and see what I took last night’. On his computer were two stunning images of the aurora borealis - one from Pierrelongue on the way to Buis and the other from Vaison. We were gobsmacked that they could be seen so far south. Our chap is a devotee of nature and meteorological phenomena and he’d known the event was due. Very pink and purple, he explained, because the green lights are only seen farther north. I’ve screenshotted his Facebook page with one of the images here.

Northern lights Vaucluse

Elsewhere in town a mega crane was carrying intrepid tree surgeons to the top of the carpark plane trees for their annual haircut. Twigs and branches hurtling gaily down. In the evening a very pleasant soirée with John and Louise - wonderful quiche made with parmesan pastry. Wish I could cook like that!

Vaison street scenes

And today it is once more duvet grey and cooler. Ste Cécile market still much reduced but at least the plant seller is back…Toussaint is looming! We braved the outside for coffee and said hello to dear Nicole of the honey and bought a jar. She logged me down in her little book and noted it was exactly a year since my last purchase! Grabbed a six bottle carton of Cairanne Plan de Dieu - buy six get one free🤗  - and a detour into the vines above Rasteau for views of the clouds round Ventoux. Two vultures floated up from the distant trees and lolloped away effortlessly. Very autumnal all of a sudden.

Ventoux and cloud

Wild Wednesday

 Yesterday cleared up at lunchtime and we came out of the cinema to bright sunshine. Excellent film by the way. A BBC coproduction so it will probably be on iplayer one of these days.

clouds over Ventoux

Today the wind is back and from the south so it's very warm. Amazing clouds over Ventoux as we battled our way up Malaucène market but in the café we found a sheltered table for the usual.

On the way home we decided it was too nice to shut ourselves inside so we detoured up to Crestet. Such fabulous views and really quite empty save for a few Swiss cars up by the Château. And two ladies speaking in what I think was Romansh. Certainly not German or French but with overtones of both and a lilting Italian cadence.

Crestet

The village as always was achingly picturesque with cobbled lanes and pretty pots of flowers and heavy wooden doors set into the stone walls. Above our price range alas.

As it was warm we thought we’d try Roaix to see if we could sit out to eat. Miraculously the wind did not so much as ruffle a leaf - well maybe just the one! We were joined by a couple of dozen more diners and had a really nice meal.

The forecast is DIRE but we are hoping it might not quite reach us.

It is WET

Not quite hurricane Milton but certainly a roaring thunderous wind overnight. Rain too. But unnaturally mild. Fortunately Jen has spotted a film. She tapped on the door at 7  last night looking like a waif in the storm, clutching the Florian brochure with film circled in biro. Did we want to go with her? Gérard of course does not! The Outrun starring Saoirse Ronan (she of Brooklyn and some well-known films I haven’t seen). Despite a German sounding director we decided it must be in English so have arranged to go to the 2.30 this afternoon to get out of the rain.

rain

I am bombarded with offers of freebies. Not only the Brando’s bounty from yesterday but Santander and Brittany Ferries. Santander send a full page offer of “Coffee or Croissant?” as I log on. Indeed. No joke. A £5 voucher to spend in some chain or other if I request a home insurance quote. Desperate.

More interesting but probably doomed to disappointment is the BF email. Register for a free return overnight crossing, including cabins and drinks reception, on a sea trial voyage of their new LPG Hybrid St Malo at the end of January. I immediately signed up (twice as it happens, by accident) but the lucky winners are to be drawn from the Sorting Hat so I am prepared for failure.

The founding father

Serendipity

 Monday morning grey and drizzly. Que faire? Well…we need a new kitchen bin as our current one has rusted away. We also need a plumber to fix the leaking loo cistern tap. Solution is of course Brando’s - aka Vaison Ménager. ‘La Samaritaine’ of Vaison where they sell everything! Even better, I am allowed to drive.

We arrive and park in the surprisingly chocabloc parking - usually pretty empty. Then see an ancient black Citroën with sandwich board on its roof proclaiming that today is the 100th birthday of Brando’s - 20% off everything! Inside all is mayhem. Man in wheelchair with microphone announcing bargains and exhorting customers to fill in the lucky dip lottery forms, queues of people, cacophony of sound. I managed to register for the plumber who should come next week, we found a smart new plastic bin having decided that metal was a waste of time, and at the checkout we were given a commemorative tote bag and    asked to spin a wheel of fortune to win yet another gift. This was one of those cardboard parking timer disc things! 

Brando is 100

Somewhat shell shocked by the whole experience we retired to Vaison for a saunter and hot chocolate. But the carnival continued. Outside the Roman ruins we came upon two giant heads made from chrome tubing gazing towards the cathedral.

Romans

Vaison is not bad on a Monday because quite a few of its shops are open, especially the bookshop and upmarket pâtisserie. So after an indulgent hot chocolate topped with shaving foam we browsed the literary offerings, bought cards etc and bread and superior chocolate eclairs. Admiring as we passed, the window completely full of fruits confits!

Sugar plums etc

Indoor market

 Bit chilly this morning despite the clear sky. Or maybe because of it. Market much reduced as stallholders take a well earned break before the next school holidays. However more garlic was obtained from the nice man who grows it near Piolenc. You will recall that Piolenc is garlic central with a concrete giant one on its outskirts on the N7. Then coffees inside at Bar de l’Union…only the staff sat outside with their vapes!

garlic 

We detoured home via Violès again to get bread from their much superior boulangerie. And discovered our butcher from Malaucène there with his stall. So maybe we can shop there instead. It was so nice that we had another coffee in the pergola covered café where there was a group of ancients speaking in both French and Spanish. Each in their own language but fully comprehending the other.

Giant prawns and mayonnaise for lunch, a short walk round the vines. That’s it for today.

You might wish to donate to Warchild - a charity we saw on BBC world news.

Warchild

Having a rest…

 …From social engagements. Friday bright, sunny, blue skies and fierce wind!

All we did was motor to Violès for a sit in the lovely café with coffees. The strawberry tree was full of gold and crimson baubles, a beautiful white admiral butterfly fought its way against the gale and soaked up the sun on our table, tractors trundled past full of grapes.

Violès

After lunch Mr Boukersanna came round to apologize for not replying to messages. He thought my foreign number might be scams. Poor man has an injured finger and is being held up on another job! Usual story…our windows might have to wait until Spring.

Culture

 In Aix. We went off this morning in city clothes to meet friend John from Paris at the Hotel Caumont Aix where there is a Pierre Bonnard exhibition. He came from Paris on a day return! €120 return first class.He is a Bonnard fan. 

Hotel Caumont door

Lovely day, breezy and not too hot.We got there without problem, parked in a subterranean carpark two mins from the museum and awaited his arrival. On the way passing the vast lycée where Zola, Cézanne, Anatole France and others had been pupils. It was BUSY. School parties sketching, old crones tottering in en masse…but nevertheless a good experience. The building has Quality writ large and the garden café restaurant was a dream. We actually had to eat in one of the the grand rooms inside but had our coffee outside later. Utterly delicious Thai beef salad followed by equally delicious fig or raspberry tarte. 31€.

Hotel Caumont Aix

The exhibition was OK - some good, some not so good paintings. The gift shop an example to us all! V tasteful. I particularly liked the collection of plates with good table manners for children. “I do not make a noise at table”, “I do not talk with my mouth full”, “I taste before I say I don’t like it”, “I always say please and thank you”. Ah…if only.

Etiquette for tinies

Really we should have stayed overnight so we could have explored city again. 

Goodbyes

TGV Avignon (image)

 Yesterday we dropped Terry off at Avignon TGV then returned via the north side of the river in a fruitless journey to find  butter. The river cruisers were all in and crocodiles of tourists, mostly Chinese, were disgorging from the ranks of coaches that had driven them all of five minutes to the city walls. A large tanker was piping out effluent from one vessel, vans were offloading crates of drinks onto another.

We did pass (the operative word) a Lidl at Roquemaure but were bent on having a coffee in Caderousse so continued. Caderousse was closed! Monday. So we thought maybe Camaret would do because there is a small Intermarché there. I refuse to go into the one in Orange! Anyway Camaret also closed. We gave up.

At 6 we were just warming up the leftover pizza when Liz and Keith appeared. Wine was opened and news imparted. They have had An Offer on their house. So mixed emotions all round.

Today we took them to Villedieu for lunch in the sun and had a really jolly time. They are off home on Thursday so it was farewell until, hopefully, next Spring. The house sale is unlikely to be completed before then they think.

Villedieu lunch (image)

Terry’s last day

And a good one! Cloudless, windless, sunny blue skies. Adrian made them a full English, albeit with French bacon, so they were set up for the day! We drove yet again in the direction of Beaumes de V - this time for a stride up onto St Hilaire ridge.

Rather a lot of people about unsurprisingly but by the time we got to the Church we had it to ourselves at least for a while. The little olive trees are full of fruit - greens, purples, mottled jewels.

The bells struck midday again as we walked back and once again we stopped at Le Café du Siècle for beers and coffee. Liz is right, we are creatures of habit!

olives

The Wine Tour

  

Vinsobres

All change weatherwise. Wind from the north, blue skies, billowy banks of clouds, much cooler. Once again Ste C market was much reduced. Stallholders are taking a well earned break now the schools are back. But we did manage to find a good garlic producer from Piolenc tucked away by the carpark.

So, supplies obtained, we took a tour of the wine coops in search of bidon red. First stop St Maurice where we have previously stocked up. No joy. Their pumps were blocked off and a curt notice announced they are no longer dispensing wine en vrac. We nevertheless bought a box of CdeR Villages St Maurice so as not to lose face. And I do have an account there!  

St Pantaléon

Next stop was supposed to be just up the road at St Pantaléon (all the saints today!) where we know they have pumps, but we had made a boo boo. St P is on the road from Valréas not the road from Ste Cécile. Which meant going through Nyons under the olive oil coop and back out towards Valréas. This is sounding like a nerd’s guide to the routes of Southern France - sorry.  Anyway, St Panthaléon was reached via lovely scenery and we swept into the parking. There to be met by a traffic jam of little tractors and trailers queuing up to deliver their grapes.

Madame ushered me and bidon into the back, switched on the CdeR red pump and filled us up. We also bought another box.  You see it will be many months before we are next here and it’s Christmas etc etc. 

 

the lizard

As we left we went to have a look into the delivery hatch where fruit was being tipped and as we did a sudden cry rang out, the lady supervisor grabbed a long stick and started poking around in the grapes. There was a green lizard about to be sucked into the crusher! Everything off, she tried to get it to climb up the stick but the poor creature just wouldn’t. Try the rake says I. Man does just that. Get a shovel says another. All in vain until the man with rake manages to drive the lizard back to the entrance slope of the hatch and it crawls out. Phew! But then I was scared it would get under the wheels of the trailer, so quick as a flash I picked it up. It was so cold so didn’t wriggle away thank goodness. Beautiful creature. I took it into the vines where it scuttled into a crack in a tree where we hope it warmed up and recovered. I asked the lady if this often happened and she said oh yes, mice too.  Hence the long stick she keeps to hand.  That leaves one wondering just what might go into the wine!

Attention, vendanges !

Images are now in blue text and open when clicked 

above Lafare

The south wind blew today, ridiculously warm (26+) but grey clouds. Real duvet stuff. After breakfast and various monetary transactions - my saver account had matured so funds were swiftly deposited elsewhere. Can’t afford to lose a day of interest🤗 - we drove up to Durban above Beaumes de V and set out on a blustery walk round the vines towards Lafare. Along the way passing gentrification of a former farmhouse, various mini tractors waiting for grapes and accompanied by kestrels.

The views were good as was the exercise and we were warm!

the pickers 

The midday bells struck as we were coming down through the vines and as if by magic figures emerged from the foliage, boarded the vehicles which then moved in convoy towards the domaine for lunch. I imagined a trestle table awash with wind boar stew and flagons of local wine. Probably just a ham sandwich says Adrian.

back of the convoy

A quick drink in Café du Siècle and home for snack lunch.

Wednesday market

 solanum

A nice warm day. Malaucène market was busy and bustling and as ever the camper van corral was full. Adrian spent a  touch less than the National Debt at the butchers. After the breakfast coffees and croissants and additional purchases we went up to above Suzette past the lovely garden where we actually spoke to the owners, and on up the track towards Mont Amand.

dentelles

On the way back we stopped in Caromb for a drink and walk round the old village.

Tea with the Kaisers at 4.

the storm

Last night we heard rumbles and saw flashes in the sky and it rained hard. This morning all was calm misty and eventually hot. Mercy dash to Super U Beaumes for milk and mustard ( and, well,  a few other treats) then a visit to our dear friends in Gigondas. Lots of chat, slices of M and S Christmas cake (don’t ask) and a walk round the village.

As I was drying my hair this afternoon Nicole across the road brought round a vast slice of pumpkin from one she’d grown (the pumpkin)What to do with it? So I have roasted half and will concoct a soup with that and wait for inspiration for the remaining portion. Mme Moulin let me off 20 cents for my cake purchase and then added a free slice of apple tarte because one corner was a tiny bit burned. Such generosity in the village.

Re pix…you can now click on the blue words and get the relevant one

Sunday

 I believe it is officially autumn now. Well well. 

Thursday was money extracting from La Poste followed by a short walk on the road to Villedieu, then sun drenched lunch in the café. All three eateries were doing good trade. Archers fans will be amused to hear that I chose Tuna Gratin (ie bake).Rather tasty in fact - nothing like I’d imagined it to be. Fresh tuna in a cheesy topping. 

On Friday we went to Liz and Keith for a terrace reunion with our Danish friends who have sold up and are now mere birds of passage. Very nice, sunny and convivial. A few drops of rain sent us scurrying homewards but the next morning was bright again for The Market. Oh yes! We braved Ste Cécile despite its new status as Plague City - four cases of Dengue Fever were found a couple of weeks ago!

And today, rather overcast to begin with, but we nevertheless went off to Rasteau being, as Liz opined, creatures of habit - what cheek! Sunny when we got there thankfully. I made it round in less than an hour but the two brothers dawdled and I had their beers set up ready for them by time they limped to the bar. Vines are being harvested by hand and machine.

Pix in the usual place. I fear my devices are too old for Google’s upload facilities…I am stuck on iOS 15.8 and the world is now basking in 17!

Sablet

 Not much to report. We arrived yesterday about 4 and got settled in. Had a drink at the bar and take away pizzas. Went to Roaix for lunch today. Elsa still there Hooray. And we discovered that the other lady, Annaëlle, is her mother!

Church clock has lost a chime! OK at 3 then one short ever since.

Warm and sunny. Should have packed more T shirts

The shortest day

Such luxury - in bed until 7.30 as we had decided to breakfast in the hotel. Bit of a waste of time for me as I am not a breakfast person but the men tucked in to the various delicious offerings! Then away towards Albi via Moissac and Gaillac. Some clouds were gathering but at Moissac all was sunny and bright. Moissac has a famous Abbey and Cloister which we last visited about 30 years ago. You now have to pay for the cloister but not much and it is worth it. I have photos but they are still only visible on the Google album…grrr.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MyaMHDudQrFBSbf36

Can you believe that when the railways arrived in the 19th century the town accepted a sum of money from the railway company and let them put the line right through the Abbey complex effectively chopping off the refectory from the church and cloister! It’s still there and you hear the screeching and squealing of the trains at the station right in the middle of it.

We got lost in Gaillac trying to park at lunchtime. Eventually finding the central carpark and resting up in the Irish Pub for coffees and a bucket of crisps. And then Albi, parking right under the Cathedral. I didn’t go in as there was a funeral - thought it a bit disrespectful to have tourists milling around at the same time frankly.

We didn’t go into the Lautrec museum next door in the Bishop’s Palace but did walk round its gardens overlooking the river and the most wonderful parterre planting. Definitely a more bearable temperature than our visit last September.

This time we are staying here - in the city centre Ibis Budget. Cheap and cheerful.

Nérac update

 Re the evening meal, we walked to the Moroccan one Au Royaume. Really good. Delicious dishes, fabulous pâtisseries for pudding €71 for three of us including endless mint teas. Run by a young man who grows all his own fruit and veg and has an exemplary work ethic - he says he must work hard while he’s young and save for his old age so that he isn’t one of those oldies who complain they can’t afford to paint their windows!

Down the Gironde

 A lovely day…a bit warm in fact! Stretchy jeans will be discarded tomorrow. 

The route was down to Royan for breakfast. The town was looking very nice and breathing a sigh of relief after the Season. Then along the water to snail roundabout and on to Libourne via Blaye and St André.

Sandwiches purchased rapidly at some traffic lights where I had to leap from the motor into the oncoming traffic, drivers all anxious for their lunch, it being midday. Then we motored through Entre Deux Mers to the Garonne and up to Ste Croix du Mont where there’s a great view over the Sauternes vineyards and Les Landes. And a cliff edge composed of fossilised oyster shells. But sadly,  just before we went up the hill we stopped at a place dear to our hearts only to find it abandoned and in a poor state of repair. Château Bertranon where we spent a holiday in a converted wine store when Adam was 18 months old. He had his first taste of Sauternes sweet wine there (accidentally) in what he called Monsieur’s dark room - the Caveau. A lovely man, a lovely place. Here it was in 2017 so what has happened?

https://www.bordeauxblanc.com/ch%C3%A2teaux/chateau-bertranon

The final leg was an easy potter south eastish to Nérac, A Royal town of Henri IV and his wife Jeanne d’Albret. We are in fact in the Hôtel Henri IV but it has no restaurant and it is Monday. Nowhere open. Well three places, one Gourmet (no), one Franco/Italian (need to book) one newish North African plus.., buffet style. Looks interesting.

Still can’t upload photos so it’s just the Google album - some are quite interesting (she said feebly)

Walking on sunshine

Well we spent most of Saturday in the garden, popping inside occasionally to tidy up. But it was such a lovely day, no one wanted to leave. We visited the Thomas Allotment to say goodbye and returned with a cucumber for the journey… doesn’t everyone? Then at 6 decided we might as well up sticks and head for Plymouth. 

Once aboard dear old Armorique we partook of fish and chips (the men) and a wonderful sandwich in proper country style bread and a truly scrumptious pistachio and raspberry jam slice of cake (me). The ship slid out of harbour in the black evening light and we flopped onto our most comfortable bunks until the Celtic harps awoke us.

Brittany was sunny once dawn had broken. Breakfast in Châtelaudren and nothing more of note until we got south of Nantes on the fast road. At Ste Hermine we noticed the bar in front of Clémenceau’s statue was doing good trade so we spent quite a pleasant half hour in the sun watching the flotilla of camper vans heading in all directions. Awful things.

Finally south through the marshes and a stop at Port du Pavé where for the first time ever we witnessed the tide coming in. Way past the light and onto the roadway. No wading birds obviously but plenty flying about, including a big Marsh Harrier quartering the reeds. It was warm and breezy - very nice.

And we fetched up at Kyriad La Rochelle about 4.30. Del Arte awaits…I have a loyalty card🤗

Pictures are not uploading so here is the link to the Google Album  https://photos.app.goo.gl/MyaMHDudQrFBSbf36

Autumn Departure

🚢We leave on 14 September overnight. Roscoff, La Rochelle (again…), Nérac, Albi. 

I am immersed in the usual indecision of what to pack, clothes lie in piles my work room, I am determined this time to be restrained! Time will tell:)

That‘s all, folks !

 Left La Rochelle at 7 in rather grey conditions. Usual drive across the marshes where nothing much was doing and had delicious croissants in Ste Hermine on a corner sporting a vast sculpture of Clémenceau with his ‘men’. The drive was long and not very exciting but we did stop on the Loire at Ancencis for a little stretch of legs. 

There was a modern paddle steamer parked up and a sign saying the Olympic Flame was coming through today but we saw nothing of it.

Joachim du Bellay was born across the water in Liré. He was a poet, mate of Ronsard and champion of the French language.

After Ancenis life got tedious. A major route barrée on the fast road up to Rennes got us lost round Châteaubriant but we eventually got to Corps Nuds, a little village with interesting church and silly name. We’ve been before but Adam hadn’t. 

But while trying to get there we passed through Challain and saw amazing turrets rising above the trees. It’s a château. Looks old but is only mid 19th century. A true confection! Owned by American who hires it out for weddings  (see foreground of photo). Website link here but get out the sick bucket! This is truly grim🤗  

Château Challain

Sandwiches in a driveway at nearly 2pm before the final slog up the N12, hampered by national verge cutting day and coned off lanes, to Roscoff Ibis. 

We arrived at 4.45 so that was A Long Day! It is raining but we have a Sea View - yay! - and supper booked at Surcouf across the way. We sail tomorrow at 9 am so it will be another early start.

Thanks for tuning in…until next time (september most likely)

Looking North

Today it was away just after 7 and already Sablet is a memory. We are in Quercy then Périgord, both so different from Provence. Everything from architecture to landscape and crops. Still vines OF COURSE but now more woods, fruit and nut plantations, maize, livestock. Breakfast stop in Prayssac, sandwiches purchased, and we continue north west.

Last night we failed to eat at the chosen restaurant because it was Mothers’ Day in France and the place was fully booked, so we had to resort to a street brasserie which was OK but pretty pricey. But it gave us the chance to see more of Cahors and we came upon this amazing clock, run on ball bearings, a bit like a pinball machine.

Today we had our sandwiches by the water in the Gironde in Port Maubert just a few kilometres from Snail Roundabout. 

In fact we spent a couple of hours there, walking through the reeds to the water’s edge (almost) then back for a coffee at a delightful seafood restaurant that does its own fish preserving. 

Must eat there one of these trips. Storks flew overhead - we’d seen a group of about a dozen in the fields earlier, and they were all on their nests in the pylons as we neared Rochefort. In fact we did pretty well for big birds today. Lots of kites and a couple of what might have been eagles, one carrying a snake!

Before we fetched up in La Rochelle Kyriad we detoured to Les Minimes port area and walked along to the point in the park above the sea to snap the little replica lighthouse - Le Phare du bout du monde. The original was somewhere off Tierra del Fuego and has also been restored.

And finally our fab corner room on floor 4 with views to the Alstom works and new train sets. Usual pizza pasta etc blow out in Del Arte next door…and so to bed!

And … away

 

Off at 7 in lovely sunny morning having placed petunias outside Nicole’s door -hope she spots them! Then a good drive across the Rhône to St Victor la Coste in the Garrigue country. Has to be one of my favourite little villages. A great monument to weights and measures stands in front of the Mairie in the main square and at one end is the Café de l’Industrie where we often stop. Today at just before 8 the chap had not yet set up all his tables but immediately placed one for us and took the order. It then took him over half an hour to haul out all the other tables and chairs and position them neatly on his outside decking. Must have been expecting a crowd! (Adam informs me it is French Mothers’ Day). 

By and by others turned up, many carrying baked goods…ha! so there IS now a boulangerie. For the last few times there had not been but I’d found an article in the local press that suggested one might open. And there it was in the front room of a house - no signage, but newly fitted out. Good to know for next time.

And off again towards Uzès. Beautiful country of scrubby limestone and woods and then the vision of the elegant Uzès towers in the distance. But not so elegant today! It was obviously ‘Bring out your Tat Day’- every street was draped with clothes, toys, bric a brac of all sorts. 

The route was a good one via Ganges, Le Vigan, Millau, Villefranche etc to Cahors. We had our sandwiches under some fine wind turbines just after Pont de Salars. Delicious poulet mayo obtained from Ste Cécile yesterday…ah! a taste of Provence. 

Then another less salubrious stop for a drink in Limogne en Quercy, a village of mixed reviews. We had a dreadful camping experience there some 17 years ago, never to be forgotten. Then a few OK breakfast stops followed by a truly awful one when Beryl was with us. Last time the café had got better again but today it was a shambles. Looked like it was either about to be sold or just had been. Despite there being a spanking new coffee machine in the corner, apparently it was disconnected and had been retired from service! so we had cold drinks and departed for our hotel. Arrived about 3.40 to be greeted by a blackbird serenading the world from the restaurant roof.

But the main take-away (as they say) from the day was the abundance of wild flowers just everywhere. Swathes of poppies, fields of them even. Meadows full of flowers. Banks of yellow Spanish Broom, red clover, sulphur yellow hawkbit/dandelion like things, all sorts of blue, yellow, white flowers that I cannot name, California Poppies, cornflowers, wild roses, etc, etc. Truly gorgeous.

Rounding off

 

Last two days. Wonderful weather.

Yesterday we went up to Piégon again and did the round up to the abandoned village with its restored bell tower. Then to Villedieu for lunch under the plane trees. A rather raucous affair with everyone coughing and sneezing from the pollen dropping onto the tables! Half way through an unexpected black cloud dropped light rain on us but not enough to drive anyone indoors. By pudding time all was bright sun again.

Today it was a quick dash to Ste C for some garlic and coffees. The streets were gay and busy and we are really sad to be going…But a bonus on the way through the vines was yet another hare and at least six Rollers in their usual place. (Adam’s pic).

And so to Rabais Sud one last time where, horrors, someone was parked in our spot by the pylon. This meant we had to proceed further and by doing so discovered a really nice walk up into the woods where we met the waymarked track from Cairanne to Buisson. One for another time. However we did see two vultures! One quartering the vines before soaring off back towards the Baronnies, and one perched on the top of the pylon.

Must now distribute my pots of flowers to friends and neighbours!

Rasteau, Roaix and Rooftiles

 

A little light rain overnight has freshened things up a bit but it soon brightened and we pottered off to Rasteau for a walk up the lanes one last time. Woodlarks deafening as usual. 

And a final drink in the bar before heading to Roaix and lunch under the mulberries. Fond farewells all round.

This afternoon Fernandes et fils turned up and re glued a few ridge tiles. They took a set of keys and will do the full repair at a time of their choosing in the summer.

And an email from Nationwide informs me they are ‘excited’ to be giving me £100 as my share of their annual profits.

Ventoux…at last

We haven't been up top for two years and even then the last time we actually walked! So today being sunny and Malaucène market, we decided to summit. Lovely sunshine as we sat at the café with coffees and viennoiseries. Hot even. Market buzzing with an influx of ‘tourist’ stalls. All we wanted was some fruit.

As we drove higher, passing the string of cyclists, the clouds increased and by the time we got to the top we were enveloped in swirling vapour. Quite chilly - 6 degrees - yet somehow there were folk in skimpy attire. Very pretty, but does she not feel the cold!

The men grabbed our bench and sat resolutely,  putting off any possible usurpers.

The return took us via Montbrun, once more in sunshine, and a simple lunch of omelette and salad, and home made chestnut or lemon mousse in a street bar overlooking the town. Somewhat unsurprisingly their card machine was en panne so we had to scrabble about between us for the readies! By now Ventoux was clear as a bell- of course!

Down the Rhône

 

Adam arrived on Sunday and as it was yet another holiday yesterday we just stayed put in the village apart from a foray to get petrol. But today it was another matter. Hot, sunny, time for a jolly. Destination Beaucaire. It only takes just over an hour via the west bank of the river,  avoiding Avignon.

Just by the Vallabrègues barrage we spotted this warning sign. Is it for river craft or the Canadair themselves? Unsure. But we did see a couple of the yellow craft rumbling overhead during our stroll.

Beaucaire is on the Rhône and the canal so has lots of pleasure craft moored up. Picturesque but slightly scruffy with many historic buildings. 

And of course a Mythic Beast - Le Drac - abducter of washerwomen.

And a castle (closed Tuesdays) with views across the rooftops.

We went there many years ago to watch birds of prey being flown from the battlements. Great fluffy vultures tucked under their keepers’ arms. Today it was just wild black kites circling on the look out for urban carrion!

As 12 struck we were on our way down to the port in search of lunch. And by gum! we actually found a really nice place. Le Restaurant Nord au Sud with a 20 euro menu. Smiling and rapid service, imaginative and tasty dishes and a loo with infinity reflections.

Final stop was across the river in Tarascon. Another château, another monster. This time the Tarasque!

Whit Walks à la française

 

As you know we are wont to potter up to Rasteau of a Sunday for a quiet walk followed by a drink in the usually sleepy square under the BVM- blue sky. Today being our final Sunday this stay, we were minded to do the same. Lovely day, not hot but warm, perfect. Until that is we approached the suburbs of Rasteau. There were groups of people, suspiciously many, with walking shoes, knapsacks and strange headgear. All heading towards the village. Cars littered the pavements, one blocked the entrance road…What could it be? Vide grenier didn’t seem likely (no need for hiking boots there) so maybe it was some sort of mass trespass! 

Whatever, we weren’t about to find out. We wanted peace not crowds. So Plan B - up to Roaix where we left the car on the top road and did a small circular walk up to Rabais Sud, down the track past the ruined farm and back. 

All to ourselves with the nightingales and woodlarks. And olive trees with clusters of lime green buds that will turn into olives.

As Rasteau was out drink-wise we continued to Villedieu and even though it was barely midday the whole square was full, no table spare. Just about to turn tail when we spotted the stools and barrel next to the entrance and we plonked ourselves down! Just right, good view from a different perspective as late comers came and were turned away. What with France being a secular country you don’t really expect Whitsuntide to be a holiday…but it is!

So back to the walks. Whit Walks are a tradition in North West England, like what where I come from -  processions and brass bands etc. And research reveals that the Rasteau event is a wine growers equivalent. This is the awful sight that would have met us had we continued! Lucky Escape.

Hare and Rollers

A sunny morning but there was ominousness to the North - far enough away not to trouble the market. Which today was bursting with colourful stalls, more people and a definite feeling of summer on the way. Adrian spotted this display of iris on the flower stall, even pondering if we could take one home with us!

Returning back across Le Plan we found last week’s Roller on the same wire and then two more along the road, so obviously that is their lair. Followed soon after by a lolloppy hare languidly crossing the road into the vines. 

The black clouds did eventually drop on us, but not much, and briefly thundered in a half hearted way. Mostly it’s brilliant sunshine. 

Mr Boukersanna has been to quote for repainting our window frames- a task neither of us could bear to even contemplate.

now where were we?

 

Ah yes, Rain. Well it continued on and off, mostly on, for a couple of days. We braved it on Wednesday in Malaucène for our shopping. Followed by another detour up above Suzette. Then yesterday we received An Important Visitor,  not from Porlock but Montpellier. A man of great academic eminence, former school chum of Adrian and not seen these 60+ years! Bit of a scary one this. But he, John,  turned up in a battered old Peugeot clutching not only a bottle of Pic St Loup but also a huge bunch of peonies! The man was welcomed in effusively. And all was jolly, convivial and interesting. Lunch indoors at Roaix - we had hoped for al fresco in Villedieu but really not a chance. We sent him home in a thunderstorm and were relieved to hear that he’d made it back safely.

Today of course, sod’s law, we are bathed in sunshine. Nice enough for a walk in the vines above Durban safe in the knowledge that no hunters are out at this time of the year. It was very fine, not hot, good views, and only one or two other people spotted as we were getting back to the car.

We popped into Beaumes de V Café du Siècle for a plat. Rather good menu and interesting choices. The Sea Bass parmentier was tasty, as was my poached pear in Durban muscat. A change from the ubiquitous mousse au chocolat etc. There is now a tree shaped crater where once the plane tree stood (the one that was blown down the other week) Totally rotten.

Ce soir it’s more academe and social life! Our Canadian law professor neighbour is here with daughter and has invited us for drinks. We might be back for Giro…they have a pink train running alongside at appropriate places with the trophy on board!