Prune Pasty

But first, departure... we left just after 7 am from our curiously situated Kyriad. It was obviously the former station hotel with huge plastic letters on top sayng HOTEL. In an American film noir they would have been flickering in pink neon! And opposite the station of course. No restaurants within walking distance except a Turkish Kebab House with a single tripadvisor glowing review. Presumably a family member. It was sweltering hot and we just about made it across the road to the station bar for a cool drink. Then decided we might just as well have our remaining sausage, egg and yoghurt in the room. With a cup of free tea and UHT milk so kindly supplied - don’t knock it, IBIS don’t do this.

So, anyway back to today. After about an hour we felt a breakfast stop was in order but the first town en route is Decazeville. How shall I say...well not picturesque! Ex mining and the houses on the outskirts look like Crediton. This only struck me today. Big square detatched jobs up off the road. Odd. Fortunately a hitherto unremarked village called St Christophe appeared on the road. It had a bar - open - and a boulangerie. And parking.

In the boulangerie behind glass I spotted small pasty shaped things. Not the pretty top-crimped ones that look like cowrie shells, no, the flat side-sealed ones that look dull. These were labelled Pruneaux (prunes), my very favourite thing. Had to try one! I enquired of the lady what they had in them, thinking it might be a nasty surprise with meat as well as prunes. Prunes she said as if I were a dolt - thought bubble ‘can the woman not read?’ Just prunes? Oui. Then she asked if I knew the prune. Of course - it is an especial favourite of mine. Ah, she replied, only a lot of people do not. Parisians for example...they have never heard of them. She then proceeded to give me a choice of either a chausson made with croissant dough or the flat pasty made with pâte brisée (short crust) but with no sugar as the prunes were sweet enough. I plumped for the latter.
We had our coffee and croissant and pain aux raisins - I was saving my treat for lunch! Then off on the long journey. Not interesting really as a stretch had to be Motorway today.

But the other side of Limoges we were back in the countryside and it was looking cooler. Grey clouds and swathes of crops - maize, sunflowers, hay meadows and cattle. Eventually we stopped by a fishing lake alongside the River Vienne just past the nuclear power station at Civaux with its white steam clouds. Adrian had his crisps and sausage but I had my pasty. Oh my what a delight. Pastry as light as can be and full of squashed proper prunes, not  a purée. Even a stone! We must return to St Christophe.

Back on the road and a detour to Saumur Coop for fizz. Got lost in the backwaters as usual but trusty Michelin got us there and we saw much rural life! Along the Loire and the lovely crumbly white stone villages. Too many cyclists and camper vans. And into elegant Angers, deftly negotiating devastation, as all streets are blocked with tramway installation. Found the most inaccessible underground carpark just minutes from the hotel and were congratulated by Receptionist!
Tonight we seek out a previous crêperie. How much do you bet  it is closed?!

Off piste to Rodez

Well, what a lazy departure. Nine o’clock! We had no need to rush as only going to Rodez. We’d originally played safe and not planned a long trip in case our guests were delayed. But as they came last night and were initiated into the intricacies of 1 rue FB, we were free to leave at our convenience.

We motorwayed it to Montpellier and then Gignac, where I begged a coffee stop. And then, looking at the map I could see we might easily avoid the A75 completely by taking smaller more interesting roads. In fact these often ran parallel or close to the motorway but were so much more fun. More our sort of journey- embrace the unexpected!

They took us into the garrigue and then the limestone Causses, through tight packed pretty villages and along breathtaking hillsides. And a small detour up to the radio mast on top of a hill. Golly it was hot, even at that altitude!

Masses of butterflies but the view was very hazy.

Pic St Loup loomed darkly on the horizon.

We stopped for sausage and egg etc in a small village just before Millau. Called L’Hospitalet. Sat under a shady tree on a bench next to a fountain and a penned up swan on his own pond. There was an explanation panel but I only noticed this as we were leaving so who knows! Maybe he’s like the Tower of London ravens.

Then down to the Tarn for views of the viaduct from a different level.

Colourful hang gliders were whirling above the cliffs. Saved ourselves 12 euros by not going over!

We continued via Severac le Château and the N88 - back on route now. Got to Kyriad Rodez opposite the station at 4.30. Just noticed I’ve splashed bleach on my favourite blue T shirt! 😥

Sablet 1900

It’s reenactment time again! Actually they do it really well. It’s very professional with all the right tools, clothes and accessories. Everyone is in character all the time as if it really were a day in a 1900s village. I just snapped the setting up on the way to the boulangerie because today is busy sorting our stuff and by midday it will be too hot.

Don’t think these motorbikes were here last time.
A 1911 Triumph.

This is more like it!  Or should I say mare like it?











The Hounds of Hades arrived with their humans and we had yet another pizza at the bar. Off tomorrow morning and will stay in Rodez.

Le dernier marché

Just about spotted the blood moon and Mars last night. There was an irritating wisp of cloud! Today the clouds are denser and it is heavy. Surely there will be a storm?

We went to Ste Cécile early for breakfast and a bottle of milk. Said aurevoir to the café and Nicole the Yoghurt.

Then back across the Plan hoping to spot the bee eaters. We’d seen a few on the way in and luckily they were still there on a distant wire. Bit blurry but this is the closest I could get even with 30 x zoom.

Now it’s skivvying and cleaning ready for handover and departure. Sweaty work!

Packing away

We have to pack away all our stuff for guests so that’s the focus of the next few days! What to leave, what to take back? Usually I’d leave diaphanous garments as they are never required in Devon. But this year, maybe I might need them! Dilemma.
We decided to buy another cooling fan for the Isle of Man contingent, so went into Vaison this morning. Good old Bricomarché to the rescue.

The town was amazingly quiet. No streams of Benelux heading in, hardly anyone on the streets. Bliss. Changeover weekend! It is a nice town when it’s like this. We sat at the Café Montfort in deep shade and whiled away a pleasant half hour with our coffees and water.

You'll have noticed that our days end shortly after midday. That’s when we retreat behind closed shutters to watch the Tour! It hasn’t been a very interesting one this year though. Smothered by Sky.

Guess!

What did we do today?!

Bathing places

After an early start to Malaucène market for breakfast and people watching we decided to check out a possible paddling place for our house borrowers. They have three dogs! OMG. So went along to the Lac du Paty near Caromb. This is down several long windy tracks and is really just a dammed river. Not terribly exciting. But it does have a snack bar and nice walks around. And you can swim. It seems dogs are allowed on leads, although we did see a black labrador swimming scross with its master. Hmm. Not v hygenic.

And it was burning hot by then. On the way home we stopped for an ice-cream lunch in Crestet. They have new premises on the roundabout with lovely shade under the trees. I had pistache and lavande. Adrian,  double réglisse. Not cheap!

It continues

Hot. But we battle on and enjoy life with friends. Spent a lovely time in Irish garden with courgette cake yesterday and today lunch under the plane trees at Magali down the road.

Relief

The Rhône level -pretty low

A bit more from yesterday. Well after a snooze in front of the cyclists speeding down into Valence we went to take back and borrow books up in the vieux village.









We could see murk gathering in the distance and slight rumblings but it was progressing at a snail’s pace. It still hadn’t really materialised by the time we went to bed and we stood Jean de Florette like on the terrace hurling abuse at the Gods. Then at 12.30 there was lightning all round and even a crack of thunder. Not that this put off the choral karaoke rising from somewhere down in the vines. But it is the Belgians’ birthday weekend so we forgive them. And then the real deal! Flashes, cracks, drum rolls and even some rain. This shut them up.

Today all is fresh, cooler, not humid. We went to Ste C. Market with a spring in our step. Sat In The Sun at the café, briefly shaded by Messrs Brake fr. on a secret delivery mission. We think it might only have been sugar and condiments.









Laden with produce for, oh, at least three days, we staggered back to the car. Adrian had to have a watermelon but when it came to pay, consternation...no wallet. Scramble in the shopping bag revealed nothing, panic! He went back to the car with the spoils, I retraced our steps round the stalls and café. And at the very last one, producer of organic fruits, I asked and was rewarded. The lady had tried to find us but failed. Waving my prize triumphantly at the ashen faced returning Adrian, we breathed another sigh of relief.

Then on our way back across the plain it was too good not to stop for a walk.

The sky really is this blue today.

 There’s a straight track across between the Cairanne and Rasteau vines. As we parked under a tree a German suddenly appeared from his car brandishing a leaflet and asking for directions to a vineyard! He was miles off track but didn’t take my advice to turn back to Cairanne.

We just walked into the horizon amid butterflies, grasshoppers and lemming like cicadas who hurl themselves from trees right into your face.

Male Bush Cricket

Then back again to the shady car and home to unpack. Still not seen any beeaters, which is unusual.

Heavy weather

There was a brief respite this morning. Clouds...aaah, lovely. We were takng G and J to the Rhône so hoped it wouldn’t actually rain! At 9 o’clock there was much revving and clattering outside and we looked out to see vans and a cherry picker blocking all exits. It seems across the road have weakened and are having aircon installed.
Anyway by the time we were off they’d left a space so we got away and were on the river in sunshine by 10.30. Showed them the ghost train memorial and the Château de Hers then Caderousse, where we had lunch.
Tour de F is close by ending in Valence and they too are dripping. Storms are forecast, honest.

Mad Belgians and Dutchmen

And French, and English. All out in the midday sun. We drove up to the Toulourenc for a short walk in our favourite autumn valley. Really only a half hour exposure to get some exercise. Usually we go here and see no one but today as we descended the slopes we were greeted by the glinting roofs of many tens of cars on both sides. New carparks to keep the hordes at bay! Reason...the little mountain river is accessible here and you can walk up the gorges through it and its occasional pools. And thousands do just this! We did it once and it was indeed rather good. But too many people.

Instead we went higher and along a track full of butterflies and grasshoppers. Had I realised this butterfly would be tempted by my silver toes, I’d have repaintd my nails first!

Per ardua ad astra

Or whatever the French equivalent is. Today we went to Base Aerienne 115 near Orange. We were there at the dot of 9 with our passports at the ready. These were taken and held, phone calls to within the perimeter were exchanged, and eventually a guide appeared to let us in.

Outside the museum area are old fighters on plinths, including Vampires, Mistrals, Mirages. Mostly made by Dassault of course (not Vampire which is British!).

The inside is a bit old fashioned and ramshackle but it had some interesting displays. We learned that the helicopters we see in pairs flying around are part of the protection force for the whole of the Rhône Valley and its nuclear power stations. They are being trained. They are also an airborne police force who can intercept light aircraft straying into no go areas.

Mirage IV as seen in Falklands

The base is essentially a training base for experienced pilots retraining on Mirage 2000 jets. These are the black delta wing machines that suddenly pop out roaring over the top of Ventoux doing barrel rolls!

We were shown a film of the history of 5 Squadron from WW1 through WW2, Indochina, Gulf Wars, Syria etc. And a room of missiles including the ones carried by Mirage IV that the Argentinians used.

And WW1 map roll (this one is obvs not that old a map nut the device is), uniforms, wooden seat, fur coat worn by pilot against the cold. Lots of goodies.

Many more pics on the Google album for those of you who are interested!

Then as it was nearly lunchtime...Café de Cours Vacqueyras

Monday 16

A grey morning, cool. Rain and a clap of thunder. So nothing for it but to go to Intermarché for fruit juice and yoghurts. Packed of course but we were soon out. And at the checkout we were given a plastic bag labelled Food Kit. A reward for our loyalty? When we got it home it contained a strange green pyramid with slicing blade and a pump action tube! Having inspected these odd devices we conclude they are for them what entertain...a spiraliser (?) and a lemon sprayer. No idea when you’d want this. We’ll leave them for our guests!

More odd things in the square. A pile of sand. We think the wine tasting evening must have had a pretend beach. A few weeks ago Adrian got an email of the minutes of the organizing committee  meeting (don’t ask how!) and it was going on about the hiring of palm trees in tubs. We should have gone down to look on Friday night hut it was just too hot.

Stormy Sunday

We were awoken at 6.15 by claps of thunder then an hour of lightning and rain. The wind is getting up. Is it St Swithin’s Day? Maybe that doesn’t count in France!
I didn’t get up to watch. Just lay wondering if a metal bed acts as a Faraday’s Cage?!
This is after the worst of it at 7.

I forgot to mention this odd thing I saw in Rasteau. A bit of a pothole in the shape of the beloved nation. A sign, a sign!

Anyway back to today. The rain went and the wind went and by 9 it was business as usual. I’d seen posters for a sculpture trail in gardens in Vaison mediaeval town and ‘twas there that we ventured, arriving on the dot of opening time 10 am.

Some interesting work and some fabulous gardens too! Usually hidden behind iron gates - oh how the glitterati live.

 I think Adrian was less impressed with some of it. He gave one poor chap a crit about the detrimental effect of pedestals! But he loved the work of one of the artists whose gallery we spent some time in. No photos allowed there!

And there was more work in the old cathedral - blissfully cool, too. Big curved reflective metal petals.

Now at a quick glance you might think that the Dear Leader had brought his latest oeuvre...but no. Mind you, could it be an anagram?

More pics in the album.

And then there was the World Cup. We went to the bar to experience the atmosphere. Our nice Parisian neighbours were there and we sat with them as cries and cheers issued forth from the various big screen crowds.

Much joy at the result obviously!

14 July

It’s a Saturday. Market day. But what do we find...? A fairground! And empty spaces. Fortunately the market has relocated down a street into the vines. Actually quite attractive, but many regular stalls don’t go. Instead there were some children selling figs at their gate for 2euros a punnet. Huge green ones - of course we did!

The town hall is in festive dress, stallholders sporting red, white and blue stripes on their cheeks and ridiculous tricolore headwear. Flags hanging from windows. The perfect storm of Fête Nationale and World Cup final weekend.

We had been alerted by Gérard to a strange vision on the Table de Magali shingle so went down for a closer look. Eek! It’s us - me as ever with a mouthful of food! Not flattering but fortunately in soft focus. It was when they first opened a couple of years ago. No one recalls the photo being taken but it looks like we all had our eyes on our food!










Muggy today. Storms forecast. Flies annoying.