Obsessed by herons

I know… but some people have lighthouses, others Eurovision. Me, I like herons. So today was a goodie! 

We’d been up to Rasteau for the weekly walk. Roses out in profusion at the ends of the vines. You’d think it was midsummer. A mixed flock of dogs with their female keepers passed us as we sat by the barrels under the pines. Bells tinkling at their necks - what a sensible idea. The two black and white spaniels among them dashed hither and yon, tongues lolling drunkenly to one side. Ecstatic and oblivious to the direction of travel until I pointed out the way.

The bar welcomed us after the allotted hour’s stroll and we had drinks various in the hot sun. 

Too nice to return and the days are now cruelly truncated by Le Passage à l’Heure d’Hiver. So we made the most of the remaining afternoon sun and headed out to Entrechaux and the Roman bridge where ladies were sunning themselves on the river bank and a party of older folk were enjoying a noisy déjeuner sur l’herbe - well sur boulders really. 

And then, in flew Monsieur Héron who stood in the shallows and looked around for his own snack. The river is very low for the time of year so I hope he found something.

These are but a few of the photos - there are one or two more on the album and I have ruthlessly culled the rest!

Herons and hallucinations

 

After the final visit to Ste Cécile we were off to The Rhône for TGV, Heron and calm waters. 

We drove down the usual rabbit hole lanes the other side of the A7 at Mornas alongside fields that had grown sunflowers now thickly green with the cabbage cover crop. And cyclists of course since they’ve aménagéd it all. But once beyond the TGV line and onto the digue all was wild and empty. 

St Etienne des Sorts was floating above its reflection in the mist across the water. Swans were swimming, herons roosting. Bliss.

Trains thundered by regularly but the herons are immune to this now and create their own raucous din as they fly about chasing off their youngsters. 

So many of them, posing temptingly in the treetops until you get one step too close and off they go - vast wings scooping and bending in the air.

Hell’s Bells! yes this is they I am sure. Datura of some sort - witches’ brew plant. A small stand of them growing on the slope. ☠️

We came back via Sérignan  home of Jean-Henri Fabre the entomologist. Followed by a car wash in Ste Cécile and the remains of last night’s pizza  for a late lunch on the terrace.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lo7qXjXsjE5QccZK9

Roaming in the Drôme

 

The weather continues mild, even hot! Jumpers not required… We’ve pottered here and there to St Hilaire and Beaumes and Malaucène and Suzette. Yuccas are truly gloriosa this year - everywhere. 

On the way back from Beaumes along the canal we had to stop to allow this giant caterpillar to cross safely. Some sort of hawkmoth - provably the striped hawkmoth.

Today it was a big trip up north to Crest through the lovely Drôme. 

Detouring to observe TGVs crossing a viaduct - as you do. But this viaduct is one we saw actually being constructed many years ago while staying in a nearby village. A trip down memory lane…aah.

Crest sports the tallest keep in France and Adam and I climbed the hundreds of steps up to it. Adrian did not. 

It is not a large town and it sits close to the river. Somewhat run down but still with some fine buildings. We had an interesting plat du jour by the river - pork rib chop with a strange pink sauce that proved to be Port (presumably in crème fraîche). Very nice actually.

Then back via the gorges and a stop for refreshments in Dieulefit. 

I say refreshment but in fact it was hot chocolate thick enough to stand a spoon in. In a delightfully shabby chic establishment.

As ever lots more pix on the album

The Sunlit Uplands

The clouds dispersed and now we awake to short lived duvet grey. Soon booted out by sunshine. It is ridiculously warm with temperatures up to 25 and not falling much below 19 at night. Last night we had tea (cups of) on the terrace at 10.30. A brief glow of lightning was seen far to the north.

Adam arrived safely in Avignon at 6.45 only 25 minutes late despite chaos at St Pancras and delay in Gare de Lyon. The first a result of administrative incompetence, the second was unattended luggage.

And now a word about bird life. Starlings to be precise…

Thousands of them swooping and shapeshifting over the vines like a moving monochrome Pointilliste painting in the sky. We drove under them across the plain then watched them from the terrace, listening to their cheerful chattering. In Ste Cécile they were sparkling and dancing about in the plane trees above our heads outside the Bar de l’Union pretending to be blackbirds or redstarts, magpies, buzzards, car alarms…whatever they were practising today! Joyful spirit raising little creatures.

Old Man River

 

aka Le Rhône…

We haven’t been for a while and as the weather is still so amazing thought we’d better not tempt Providence by waiting too long. Rain is a constant worry at this time of year despite the clear blue skies. And well, why not burn some fuel!The strike is bound to end soon. Yesterday we stayed close to home, only venturing to Roaix then a walk above Villedieu so we needed a change.

On the way to Caderousse we have oft spotted a sign by a gate saying Cidre, Jus de Pommes and not stopped. Well Cider isn’t exactly what you expect in Provence! Though why not? They grow zillions of apples down here by the river. So today we drove in down the earth track lined with netted trees and came to a somewhat battered yet distinguished dwelling with a painted sign saying Klaxonnez! 

Which we did, and by and by, a small tractor pulling trailers of apples chugged into view. A man of few words confirmed there was cider and juice for sale and how much did we want. 

A box of six bottles of cider and a 3 litre box of juice was thus obtained and he went on his way back to his orchards where he’d obviously been busy harvesting until these blessed foreigners interrupted!

Onward to the destination…the bridges of - not Madison County - but the Rhône. Always a good spot for interesting sights. We ducked off the road across the smartened up cycle track and onto the gravel tracks beside the river. Abandoned Skoda to his fate and walked along the water’s edge. 

There were Herons, loads of them, swans, cormorant, butterflies and aromatic wild herbs. And the water was like a millpond with wonderful reflections. Do check out the Google album my dears… I am quite proud of some of today’s snaps.

At midday the TGV’s came thick and fast. A sinister black delta wing roared overhead, a kite disappeared up a thermal, swans and herons played chicken with the motorway traffic, flying low between the lorries.

Home for lunch on the terrace, entertained by rooftop-skimming Helicopter training and Patrouille newbies on Air Display 101 - learning to fly in formation.

Raste…au…soleil

On Thursday we feared the weather had gone off. Grey sky though not cold. We were off to try the new Bistrot at Buisson and suddenly a bit worried we might be the only customers. Liz and Keith were along for the ride so the responsibility weighed heavy. In the event we found a busy space with a couple of big parties as well as we four and a few others. Food imaginative, if a bit tepid by the time it arrived - only two girls running the show as yet. I forewent pudding as both choices were my least favourite - brioche perdue with fig or chestnut mousse. But we gave it 7 out of 10 and will go again - these places take time to bed in.

Friday dawned warmer and we thought we’d go to Caromb for breakfast as we needed milk. Bear with, there is reason in our madness.Super U in Beaumes does proper milk - full cream - and once you are there Caromb is a mere 10 minutes away. As we were heading east into the morning sun, the sky was a spectacular sight with crazy cloud formations over St Hippolyte. We had to stop and snap.

Coffee in Caromb was an eye watering 8 euros but probably our fault for asking for double espressos and hot milk. But the cafe is nothing if not to the point! Today’s  special - Tripe. We finished with a walk around then back to base to watch the jolly japes at No 10!

Six o’clock and it was apéros next door - with some trepidation as they now have Dog. Dog proved to be a delight - even Adrian loved him. So a good evening.

Today we almost didn’t go to Ste Cécile, but complete lack of yoghurts changed our mind and we popped in briefly. A glorious day without a cloud in the sky. We returned via Rasteau and did the walk in hot sun accompanied by woodlarks singing in the vines followed by snifters at the bar. Now did you know that a snifter is actually the name of the glass? Intelligence gained from watching Pointless the other evening!

Pizza in Gigondas with N. Ireland this evening…oh the merry whirl!

Now, Voyager

 

Malaucène market - still warm and less busy today.  Large quantities of meats secured from the Violès butcher … They breathed a sigh knowing they could feed their family again this week thanks to the bounty of M. Smith. As we were settling back into the car by Campervan Central we noticed a large vehicle sporting the legend Voyager slowly moving up and down the vast and fairly empty arena. Presumably looking for a space. There were many, yeah even Multiple! Goldilocks- like it edged into one, thought better of it and moved to another. No, not good enough, and on to a third. Still unsatisfied it cruised slowly about surveying the blank and featureless expanse, finally reversing at snail’s pace into what we onlookers deemed to be the worst one of all. Right by the ring road, under a street lamp. Ah well…I know, we should Get A Life.

Thence to Crestet Pots on what we knew would be a fool’s errand. The constant search for a small black lidded casserole. Nothing. And they are already packing up the outside for winter. 

Nearly home and Adrian proposed a walk round Séguret! Great Heavens…unheard of. It was quiet and newly fettled with a smart flight of steps leading up from the carpark. Lovely views of course. 

Restaurant filling up on the terrace, and Art. Well of sorts. The usual rubbish in the exhibition space though I did quite like a few of the abstracts much to Adrian’s scorn.

Bits of Quirky Sculpture in the streets.

Jolly warm

 

And yet we eschewed shorts because, well, we don’t believe it! Out at ten into the sunlit sky and off to behind Beaumes for the walk around Durban and up to St Hilaire. 

There was a thick low bank of cloud floating over the hills with blue sky above. We passed a shattered pine tree that looked as if it had been hit by lightning, scorched branches strewn along the verge. Half of La Patrouille zoomed overhead and disappeared. Some farmers chugged round their vines in tractors. Apart from that we only saw two young women, a fell runner and, later, a small group of randonneurs complete with poles. 

In the chapel garden all was quiet and peace - a very tranquil spot from which to survey the landscape. 

By 11 as we were leaving we were hot and thought we’d visit John and Louise for refreshment. Not in…so nothing for it but to head home and have a drink at the bar. As we were doing so Adrian cracked - Steak and Chips, he croaked! So we moved to a dining table and ordered the entrecôte. Followed by an experiment - a café serré. Hmm, a leetle strong for my taste but he loved it and knocked back both mouthfuls, for that’s all you get - a shot.

Minouchette’s people are back so we are off duty. But oh dear, little does she realise that tomorrow The Dog arrives🙀

There are thousands of starlings wheeling around in mini murmurations, chattering in the trees. Then they suddenly all fall silent as if someone flicked a switch. Delightful. The sparrows have commandeered the martins’ nests for the winter and are busy tidying them up. Black Redstarts are everywhere flicking their bright tail feathers and ticking at each other. Acorns and chestnuts fall from branches like missiles and you have to do some fancy footwork to avoid a direct hit! Underfoot it is squished figs, olives and quinces. Such a bounty of unused fruits.

Café culture

The weekend was a bit wet on and off - Minouchette came to spend the day with us! She found a chair upstairs and retreated for the day, having passed most of Friday on our car bonnet. 

In between times we had an hour walking round the vines and taking tea with the Kaisers. A short trip to market for not very much but enjoyable coffee at the Union.

Today, Monday, the sun returned and we decided to try to get some petrol. There’s been a refinery strike for two weeks but we had had a full tank so weren’t too fussed. Before our trip to the Drôme anyhow! A government app indicated that Vaison was supplied and even our local garage on the main road had some. So we cruised by that way and indeed there were vehicles on the forecourt. Charming man filled us up and away we went. Not cheap mind but better than aimlessly hunting down cheaper. And it meant we didn’t have to go into town as the other point of our outing was to try out the new Bistrot de Pays in Buisson. 

There’s a huge banner announcing it on the entrance to the village - opened in September - and we thought we’d go with Liz and Keith on Thursday. So this was by way of an exploratory visit.

Buisson is a sweet little village but No Shops! We’d written it off years ago as a place to buy because of this. But the houses are mostly well kept and more and more are being restored. Pretty coloured shutters, decorative touches to windows etc suggest a Dutch presence! So this new enterprise should do well, fingers crossed. Much funding from various bodies including the EU rural development lot. We had a coffee on the terrace and a walk around to to the viewpoint. Then it was almost 12… too nice to go home.

Off to Roaix then! It was quite busy even that early. I persuaded Adrian to have the choucroute garnie…not entirely a great idea as the cabbage bit was a touch too vinegary!