Heavy

 Overcast this morning but warm. We needed money so off to Vaison ATM. The tourists are arriving and parking was getting full and there were groups of waiting to get into the Roman remains and that most certain sign of summer - the Petit Train. I extracted €500 in small notes (result!) and we dutifully patrolled the square . I spotted a rail of dresses at €29, tried one on and kept it on as my t shirt and skirt were simply too thick. I was saying to Jen only yesterday that really one should bring the minimum wardrobe and buy clothes in situ as nothing in UK is as cheap or as nice or thin enough. Anyway, enough of my Handy Fashion Hints…I also bought a book.

We were going to put the car through the car wash but it was now 11 and time for refreshment so we’re saving that excitement for another day. Villedieu was selected for the drinks and we were soon under the shady trees in the square sipping beer (them) and a home made lemon and ginger citronnade (me). There was a vague wondering about staying to eat but sad to report we suspect things have changed. No menu du jour - just a suggestion du chef. No sign of our smiling serving wench either - she must be doing better things.

Back to base for snack on the terrace but before we could eat, Nicole from across the street appears with a bag of figs from the garden! She enticed us in to inspect the huge tree laden with fruit and invite us to a big party on 9th with proper disc jockey from Miami! She snapped off a bit of trumpet vine for me. (bignone)

By now an incontinent cloud had leaked as it heaved itself over the ridge but that was it - trois gouttes - and lunch was eaten in the shade of the umbrella. 31 degrees - too hot, too heavy. We all retreated to snore on our beds and sofas until 4.

let them drink semi-skimmed

 

Today was a mission of mercy. Our German friends, who usually arrive with a boot full of Milch frisch von der Kuh sufficient for a six week stay, this time came without their car. The only fresh milk sold in Sablet is semi-skimmed and they, like us, simply cannot abide it in tea. So as we were going to Malaucène market today we offered them a lift - a bit tight in the back seat. There’s a U Express in town that always has proper full milk we assured them. However not today. Just one bottle remained - I blame the influx of Benelux for this! 

After coffee and shopping we decided to try the new U in Beaumes de Venise and off we set over the hills via Suzette. Obviously we had to take in the views and have a short stroll. The air was full of scents - fennel, lime, honey… but my dear doggie was not in her run today.

Then down at Beaumes we piled into the blissfully cool brand new shed of delights searching for milk. Honestly French supermarkets take a perverse pleasure in secreting fresh milk in unlikely places but eventually we tracked it down and relieved them of four litres with longish use by dates. We may do the same next week!

Back to the darkened rooms then lunch on the terrace in 31 degree heat (thankfully shaded by the umbrella)

Dilly Dilly

We had determined to Get Out somewhere today! And to set off early to beat the heat. I was up at quarter to six, the others an hour later. And we left at 8. Destination Lavender. There was actually a bit of a breeze and even in Sablet it felt a little cooler. Up by Ste Jalle in the Baronnies it was decidedly pleasant and there was much lavender to be seen. 

Though it seems there is trouble in Paradise- that accursed EU (aren’t you just glad we are no longer subject to its tyranny! Not a day goes by when I don’t thank Boris for Getting Brexit Done.) apparently wants to classify essential lavender oil as a chemical product! This would scupper the production here in Drôme so understandably there is a protest campaign.

On to the Col de Soubeyran where usually the views and butterflies are wonderful. Not so today - breeze stiffer up there, which seemed to have put off many of the butterflies. And a weather front hanging off to the north with big clouds somewhat blocking the long views. Still ‘reasonably wonderful’ though. No vultures to be seen across on the Rocher de Caire - too early for them! They don’t get up much before 11 when the thermals develop.

A quick check on the map revealed that there was a route we could take from here to St Trinit that would get us there in time for lunch - provided the bistrot was open. We’ve only managed to catch it once! Worth a punt we agreed and followed the twists and turns of the white roads through lovely landscape and down the upper gorges of the Toulourenc then up onto the plateau. More signs to Légion Étrangère - they get everywhere.

We got to St Trinit at 12.15 and whooped with joy as folk were to be seen on the café terrace. There was a table in the shade, and a menu du jour acceptable to all. Prompt service too. All good. Then a quick tour of the village before returning via the Toulourenc valley on the north side of Himself, the Mountain.

Positively chilly on the terrace - a mere 28.6 and a keen north west wind. 

Still here

 

Too hot to do much. We went to market yesterday and got supplies then retreated to the darkened rooms until teatime. Coffees now 3 euros at the bar de l’Union! Bee eaters on the wires but they don't stay still for portraits.

Today we managed a short walk round the village shops and drinks at the bar before midday. Nearly 34 on the terrace. Thassorl.

Midsummer’s Day

 

ha ha!The clouds were down in the Gorges du Tarn this morning but nothing like yesterday afternoon when we were underneath the viaduct! Fortunately inside the car..All of a sudden all visibility was obscured by a wall of hail and cloud accompanied by the sound of thunder. It went on for ages and we were sure the roof would be dinted. Worse, what on earth was it like on the actual motorway above! But it passed, the roof was intact and no signs of carnage up top. 

Much acrimony finding Ibis Budget (ahem) but eventually we did and it was great. Brand new with huge rooms and views of the gorges and viaduct. Into town for a pizza under the columns.

From Millau we went into the Cévennes via the Plateau de Larzac  - home of the Légion Étrangère. Then down to Nant, a picturesque town where once we camped in yet another storm. The heavens opened just as we parked but fortunately again our café of choice nestled under the ancient stone arches and we were dry.

And so it continued down the twisty verdant tree clothed slopes and empty roads into Le Vigan then Ganges. Hailstorms left piles of what looked like snow on the roadside. Vignerons stood in their vines examining the devastation of stripped leaves and grapes. Fear not, the Govt compensates them for hail damage! Gradually things brightened up and the sun came out and we left the clouds behind in the hills. 

On through Uzès and a lunch stop in our newly discovered village St Victor la Coste (see previous return journey). Nice menu du jour for 16 euros and pleased to note they now have their 2022 Routard sticker.

All well in Sablet.

Angers to Périgueux

Last night while eating supper (actually rather good food) in the hotel we espied a large truck with the logo of my favourite biscuits huffing and puffing its way into the car park. It is the St Michel professional cycling team. Will they throw freebies at us we wondered? Alas no and it was actually probably only the support vehicle. Several tall chaps and a lady joined us in the restaurant but no printed menu for them. Oh no! Special plates of what looked like frittata followed by spag bol. And from a  wheelie trunk that they had brought in they extracted their own bottle of olive oil.

We had a short burst of thunder and rain over night and the morning was grey. But the Loire as ever looked wonderful as we drove up river to breakfast in Montsoreau. Our previous bar was closed but the boulangerie was open, as was the other bar. So all was well. Coffees today more than twice the price of the ones of yesterday!

Then the usual descent to Périgueux. Rainy for a while then the sun came out and we had our sandwiches by a lake outside Rochouart where a notice said otters and coypu were to be found. They did not manifest themselves but a heron did.

We thought we’d cracked finding Ibis Périgueux but despite all we went wrong and had to weave our way into town searching for the miniature signs on roundabouts. Eventually got the right road and even a parking spot. However, dear reader, the hotel is by the river and as I gazed down over the terraces I spotted a rat chasing down a lizard. In broad daylight!

Farewell my lovelies

Yes once again we are so perverse as to leave just as the garden is at its best.We did at least get to see most of the treasures so mustn’t grumble. And of course a downpour on the eve of departure didn’t do anything for them! But our last day was warm and we lounged about outside waiting for the appointed departure hour - far too early as ever. We were in Plymouth before BF even opened and then sat for two hours waiting for the ship to arrive. Still - better than being late!

The check-in person handed us a letter saying that the French military and BF were doing a security exercise and not to be alarmed by the presence of armed soldiers on board.We weren’t. They smiled at us as we drove on and sat around on deck taking selfies. Crossing was calm and comfortable and we got the usual free food and drink. Arrived at 8 and were off quite quickly. This time all passports were stamped - Adrian had to recount his adventure of last time to the Customs chap, who thought it most amusing. Excellent English of course.

We got an amazingly cheap breakfast where three excellent grand crèmes (each with its own jug of milk) came to only €4.50! It was fine and sunny despite the dire weather forecasts and we gradually got a bit hot. By the time we stopped on the Loire for sandwiches and a drink it was decidedly scorchio. The lunch stop was St Florent le Viel perched above the river.Nice historic place with sculptures and views and a decent cafe for a drink and…’facilities’…

Then a potter along the banks of the so called river - more like a sandpit with hardly any water in places. Very picturesque none the less and sporting the very finest doodle do I have ever seen at Montjean sur Loire. Found Kyriad sans problème by the motorway near Angers and are now flaked out awaiting 1900 hours supper. Can’t summon up the will to go out hunting the best pizza so will risk the in-house…not hungry really so it will do.