Western Approaches

 Rain thundered down all night but by the time the hour change had made the day bearable we were off up the coast in sunshine and big skies to walk on the beaches among crazy rocks. 

Rainbows galore and a delighted Setter type dog galloping up and down chasing birds and wagging its tail madly. Pont Aven was just seen on the horizon chugging in and by the time we made our way back to Roscoff at midday so did it.

 

A quick lunch in Surcouf - scallop Tagliatelle for me and Moules frites himself. A bit pricey and chips a touch old fashioned soft ones like we used to make at home, but tasty. Then off to sit in the queue….. and queue…

 

Loads of cars as this is the last boat and the end of half term. But we’d booked a cabin and it had a porthole so after a cup of tea and a sit, a walk, a shop for Gin (two litre bottles of  Gordons for £22) and cheap Campari we retired to our abode. Ship was over an hour late getting off because of some technical ‘beyond their control’ in the Garage. Ahem… it is their ship so how is it beyond their control? Had Halloween Ghouls taken over? It was a bit rocky but not too bad and we lay down on our bunks and divan and dozed off. 

Arrival in Plymouth 9. Exit from Border Control well after 10. Even they said it was a long night - always jolly the guardians of our frontier! And home at midnight to find the living room carpet destroyed by yet another flood from god knows where this time! 

Welcome Home . Freezing cold and wet and two hot water bottles in bed. You might recall we’d left milk in the fridge - it was now yoghurt 🤗

Lateral flow has arrived Whooppee.

Roscoff

Getting in and out of the hotel parking was A Challenge! But we made it. Still fine as we left Les Sables via a quick visit to the lighthouse of Armandèche. Stiff breeze and crashing waves and big clouds to the north but pink and scuddy ones over the town with flocks of seagulls gathering for the day's fishing. 

After which we headed north along small roads skirting the coastal forest and marshes. A goodly haul of big grey herons and a few flocks of grazing storks. Coffee in a bar in Brem - we didn’t want anything to eat after two big evening meals. And then we hit the rain clouds! That went on until about Pornic and thereafter it was mostly blue sky. 

We were determined not to miss a crêpe lunch this time so stopped in La Roche Bernard at 11.45 and found our way to the river where Yeah! there was a lovely modern crêperie with views and they were open and had a table by the upstairs window. And the crêpes and galettes and cider were really good. Win Win. 

Such good fortune because by the time we left at 12.45 they were turning people away. Nothing more of note until Roscoff where we arrived at 4. We should be enjoying the final hour of sunshine but instead are filling in the ruddy Passenger Locator Forms! Surcouf at 7.00.

Roscoff is busy - holiday weekend. And lots of smart new shops and restaurants. But the old stalwarts survive, including the tinned fish emporium

That was a good meal. The place has changed a bit in the 20 or so years we’ve been going but it’s still the same owner and lovely service and good food. In fact so good that we booked on the spot for lunch tomorrow🤗. Well the ship goes at 3.30 so by the time we arrive in Plymouth it will be beyond supper time. And by the time we get home it will be nearly Monday. We plan a trip up the coast first tomorrow before heading back for the moules frites. All weight lost in Sablet will be reinstated!

Driving into winter

Gosh we were late up today - almost 8! but it was so comfy and quiet. The advantage was that at least it was getting light as we drove up into Périgord with the rosy fingered dawn turning all the leaves pinky gold. Impossible to capture on celluloid but it was a glorious drive between banks of autumn leaves. Until that is we hit a layer of cloud and it all turned grey and gloomy. 

Breakfast in the same bar as last year under the looming outcrops in Les Eyzies. Then onward through the sprawl of Périgueux and into the rolling vines of Charente.

It was pouring by the time we stopped for sandwiches under the eoliennes!

But suddenly we got breaks of sunshine here and there before another torrential downpour outside Luçon. 

However, Les Sables d’Olonne was bathed in sunshine and our hotel in La Chaume across the water is a delight! In a narrow street with challenging parking (don’t ask) a step from the harbour and really well appointed. Nice owner too.

We spent the early evening strolling in warm air along the jetty, watching the waves and distant black clouds before a jolly nice supper in the Restaurant du Port at the bottom of our steps. 

Warm enough to eat outside luckily because they were fully booked and only had one table left outside.

And the best news was a text from Brittany Ferries to say our sailing has been put back to 3.30 which gives us an extra few hours in Roscoff on Sunday!

Moonlight flit

 

We were away at 6.50 before dawn in the moonlit, starlit sky leaving the yellow lights of Sablet and Gigondas glowing behind us on the hillside. This is the worst bit - once we are up into the Cévennes it is better because they are so ‘other’. From previous bitter experience we know breakfast must be obtained before Alès - we Never manage to spot the required juxtaposition of boulangerie and bar in the mountains. There must be some but it probably means ferreting them out in gloomy looking villages. Caderousse was too early really as I for one am not hungry so early in the day but Alès was fast approaching by the time we’d done a hopeless couple of detours. There on the roadside was a bar/tabac, big pâtisserie and other commerce! In we went and got three croissants which we took to the small bar and ordered the café crèmes. They came in the guise of milky hot water but I have had worse and the croissants were truly wonderful. So good that we went back and bought sandwiches for lunch. 

But the temperatures! Oh dear…the car had already given ominous ding dong warnings that it was down to 4 degrees. And the Cévennes were yet to come… We motored up the winding gorges of the Gardon between hillsides of vivid coloured trees, misty cloud down below in the valley and bright blue sky above. Then over onto the A75 down two junctions to get onto the road across to Sarlat. It started warming up and temperatures were now reading 21! Lunch stop down a country lane that could have been England with stream, meadow, cows. Sandwiches top marks.

Got to Sarlat at 3.30 and after a brief flake out we walked into town. Last year it had been raining so hard that we barely made it across the street, so saw nothing. Today, phew…warm or what.We felt overdressed despite seeing people in boots and coats. 

It’s obviously a tourist hot spot but nevertheless full of amazing history and ancient buildings. Shops galore - several devoted entirely to rather nice jumpers, many selling walnuts and derived products, others crammed with duck and goose confections. 

Where else would you find a Foie Gras Cooperative! We had a horrendously expensive beer and citron pressé in a square but we expected that.

Sarlat was also the birthplace of Montaigne’s dear friend, the poet Etienne la Boëtie.

Tonight we will schlep over the road again to L’Esprit Sarlat because it was fine last time and it saves looking for somewhere better.

This chap is le Badaud - the Spectator - looking down on the activity below.

Parting is such sweet sorrow

 

Last day. It has been a touch stressful of late…Carpenter consistently failing to appear, wretched inexplicable tyre beep in Suzette that never repeated but Why?! Where to leave the vast sums of money for painting of shutters? But the weather is fabulous and we’ve been out and about. Went to see John and Louise’s new house in Gigondas on Monday. 

They too have last minute hiccups so it’s not just us! They should have got the keys on 1 November - a week later than promised - but there still seems to be a lot to finish off. We spent the morning inspecting then had coffee and buns in Beaumes. We said our farewells for the year to them, then ditto at the Kaisers yesterday then Deb and Gary last night.  It’s literally all go here. Then J and L popped by today to say they couldn’t get the keys until 11 November! So they are leaving without them - aagh

Anyway miracle of all miracles, the man came to take away our old shutters yesterday morning. He needs to remove ironwork to put on the new ones. But that means we are shutterless on that window and will he return ?🙀

Then we got emails from surgery inviting us for our booster jab in Crediton on 30 October - next Saturday- when we will be in Roscoff. Drat. I phoned surgery to try to alter it but we now have to go on a waiting list. Such a nuisance because we probably could have had it here if we’d got organised. J and L are having theirs today in Vaison but you need to make an appointment and we just have too many other things to do, like waiting around for shutterman to return. 

And going into Eurotyre Vaison just to get the rogue tyre checked. Which they did at once, no waiting, and at no charge. Couldn’t find anything wrong with it.

We needed lunch. Off to Roaix. Mr Boukersanna the painter phoned to say carpenter will bring new shutters this afternoon and gave us leave to eat!

Poor mulberries have had their annual butchering with just a few residual leaves a testament to their former glory. In fact the sound of the chainsaw is filling the air everywhere. Nature must be tamed!

But even so it can be perfection. Up the hill behind Roaix for one last look across the valley from our tree. 

Golds, reds  oranges, greens, all blending and shimmering making patterns of autumn colour.

Remember the shutters? We returned from lunch and waited. And waited. And waited. At 6.30 I made yet another call to Mr B who said carpenter had just phoned him to say he was on his way. At 7.30 it was dark and we were losing the will to live. At 8, just as we were finishing the beans on toast, he appears! Shutters were installed but he wasn’t happy with fit so will have to plane one sometime. I m leaving him and Mr B to sort this between themselves - I have had enough. At least the window is secure.

Hot, dog

 

And today, well whew wotascorcher! First of all I battled with mobile signal to book our Day 2 lateral flow tests. Wretched thing always drops out at a crucial checkout moment. We had a late breakfast with Deb and Gary looking out of their hole in the wall onto a golden hillside, then drove up to Suzette for a walk. Too hot in my jeans and we saw others, more sensible, in shorts and t shirts. Usual great views and desires to live there (fat chance). 

I greeted my favourite hound in his pen - he no longer barks at me so must recognise the accent. 

We even found a judas tree in full flower. What!? 

On the way back down the hillside the car gave an ominous DING noise. Drop in tyre pressure detected. Bugger! So we pulled in and Adrian got the gauge out and sure enough left rear (always this one) was a bit low. The magic electric pump was plugged in to the boot socket and off we went. So far so good but it will need to be checked before we leave.

Final stop was a drink in Vacqueyras. At first we were alone under the trees but then not one but two groups of English appeared.They are coming back! 

Pass Sanitaire obligatoire but not even requested.

Saturday

Oo it was a chilly windy start to the day! Market traders muffled up and even we were driven inside at Le Bar de l’Union. However by the time we emerged folk were once more sitting out under the trees in warm sunshine.

This afternoon we had a walk round Vaison in the balmy warm air. Actually spotted a woman in a bathing costume sunning herself on one of the gravel islets in the river! We were in need of chocolate eclairs and money. Gosh, Vaison is improving rapidly - becoming a really sophisticated elegant little town. And to think we used to despise it. Shame on us.

Finally, home via Rasteau Coop for some Vin Doux and a drink in the delightful square under its pure blue sky.

We’ve had an email from our surgery giving us an appointment for booster jab but it’s next Saturday when we will be in Roscoff! Will phone them on Monday to try to reschedule it. John and Louise are getting theirs in Vaison next week.

Final Friday

Bright sun, blue sky, north wind. But once more we wait for le menuisier… he does not appear - sigh. in a show of defiance we abandon the house and go up to Durban for a walk through the vines and up to St Hilaire the back way. Tough luck if he finds us out grrr. The vines were at their most graphic with alternate rows of dark ploughed earth. Lovely spot. 

We didn’t linger at the chapel as there was a famille. Well behaved little boys and three adults but we are spoilt and like the place to ourselves! Work continues apace by the volunteers. 

A farewell pizza here tonight with John Louise and Poncho just in case we miss each other next week. The clan is gradually disappearing. Liz and Keith tomorrow, us next Thursday and Kaisers in two weeks. Another glance at the weather forecast suggests that we might now have a sunny return journey!! I dunno…these Météo folk are capricious.

Octoberfest

Damp streets this morning but still very warm and the sun soon burst through. Deb and Gary came for a breakfast catch up then we were off to Valreas for supplies. Leclerc…a big supermarket with unexpected offerings like this tank of live crab and lobster!

It was such a nice day and we have Liz and Keith coming for apéro nibbles tonight so we decided that a final lunch in Villedieu would be appropriate. Just as well because they are closing for two weeks tomorrow to avoid the half term horrors. My plat du jour was really superb both in appearance and taste. Yum! Note the actual variety of potato is specified - class! 

red face - no it isn't! Apparently grenaille is the size of potato, not the variety! Such is my ignorance of culinary terminology I always though it meant the variety and have never questioned further😀

Hanging around

 

Just waiting in for a man who may or may not come with new shutters! so here are some more pictures of Monieux and Nesque. 

The weather has gone cloudy after the past few days of glorious sun. Yesterday was possibly the final outside lunch at Roaix but you never know…it might suddenly warm up before we leave. 

Unlikely, as I have taken a peek at the long term forecast and our return journey looks as if it might be …well shall we say…WET.

Well carpenter didn’t appear - he got the wrong date and it will be Friday. So we went off to Violès for coffee and when we got back there was Deb and Gary outside the window! Not seen them for two years thanks to the Plague. Seems like only yesterday though.

Ce soir, apéro next door so we had lunch at home, just to be sure of sustenance!