last post

 

Sunday morning betimes we creep out of Mercure and do the final stashing of bags and goodies. Now increased by a sack of pink onions. And drive round to the quayside to be closer to Ty Pierre. I draw a veil…you’d think that after decades of doing this we’d be ‘word perfect’ as it were! Anyway we got there. They were open. Coffees and croissants were consumed. The end was nigh.

There weren’t many departing this country of riot and looting surprisingly… even though it is French half term. Certainly no lorries, so we were all stowed on the cargo deck. We were behind a Bentley convertible being trailered home, towed by a Range Rover. Ah! how the other half lives. French border control questioned Adam’s arrival date - suspicious that he hadn’t come in with us! But no issues. 

Then the glad surprise - our cabin had a porthole! I must have booked that in a moment of largesse, unless it was free - they are on some crossings if you are A Member.. Just can’t remember. It was windy but not choppy so we all repaired to our chosen positions. Me to top deck over the bar, Adrian and Adam to outside…and, away! Another ship was heading inwards from the west. I pondered who it was…a Rosslare crossing? Much hooting rent the air, I dashed out on deck with image taker in hand. Oh bless! it was Armorique on the overnight from Plymouth.

I watched as it drew into dock and then bade farewell to dear Roscoff for now. I needed a cupoftea!

Adrian staggered up to join me. He’d been to buy Gin. Tea was purchased, well, hot water put into a steel pot and sachets of English Breakfast into the cups. It tastes OK really, I think we are too fussy.

The horror was yet to come. Bingo. Well Bingo for English speakers as no announcements were given in French. Thankfully this torture was short lived and the rest of our entertainment was ship spotting - lots of container ships and a couple of incoming ferries (Galicia and Norbay).

Adam had settled in the cabin, top bunk, with his IT and headphones and I eventually went down to join him. Not feeling at all well with my chesty cough and broken night’s sleep. Adrian came in too so we had the last hour dozing. The crossing seemed to go very quickly and before we knew it Start Point was off the starboard and disembarkation announcements were being made.

Off the quickest we can remember and through passport control without being frisked. And really that was it. We were back in Cheldon by 4.15! My heart sank at the sight of cobwebs inside and chestnut leaves and pods outside. Groan…I really am going to do a George Washington equivalent on that ruddy tree one of these days😉

fin

End of the road

Yesterday was long and tiring and not much to report. Not totally without interest but nothing earth shattering. We saw two grossly huge MSC cruise ships being built at St Nazaire mind you. And some rain around Rennes. Then eye piercing sunshine all the way to Roscoff and utter luxury in Mercure. A whole suite of rooms - two bedrooms, separate loo, the works! Two nights. The Ibis two doors down is being given a facelift and is out of action for a year. So our gain🤗

Adrian and I were under par so it was just galettes and crêpes for tea. Decidedly better than the Rochefort offering.

Today we lingered in the cocooning comfort of our suite until nearly 10 before croissants and coffee in Ty Pierre, purchase of tinned fish from La Belle Iroise opposite and onions from the épicerie. Who’d have thought that in order to get a loyalty card from La Belle Iroise you’d need to reveal your d.o.b.?!

None of us wanted to exert ourselves greatly today so after a quick shop in Leclerc St Pol we pottered down to Carentec and a couple of strolls along the shoreline. Sunny but a brisk chill breeze.

Afternoon cidres in the cafe back in Roscoff then more luxuriating on the soft pillows prior to supper across the street in Surcouf. I could get used to this.

It will be up at the crack tomorrow for the morning sailing. Back in Cheldon about 6 pm.

A day of rest

 

We‘re all a bit weary for various reasons so decided we needed a leisurely day. And the weather agreed - lovely, calm and sunny, if actually a bit too warm!

Off we popped to the Fouras peninsula where oysters are harvested and the ferry goes across to the Île d’Aix. Major civic re landscaping is going on with earth moving equipment, road laying, you name it.

Learned a new word too - désimperméabilisation. Means removing a waterproofing capping so that the ground can naturally absorb rainwater. Urban water management.

We decided on a seafood lunch, knowing full well it would be eye-wateringly dear, but we just wanted a relaxing sit by the water in the sun so metaphorically bit the bullet. It was OK, nothing special.

Then a visit to the Vauban fort - le Château de Fouras

where intrepid lad was steeple jacking on a rope from the top. You do know that you can click on the image to enlarge it so you can see the full horror of his endeavour.

We returned to town via the marshes and the Soumard lighthouse for old times’ sake.

Adam wanted a look round the *Arsenal and so our final stop was just there. 

Of course l’Hermione was nowhere to be seen - she’s holed up in dry dock in Bayonne too expensive to refit. Disgrace! These are just sail training pretend masts.

And a final verre at the bar of same* name opposite before retiring to an early bath and collapse. Adrian and I have colds.

Random observation this hol…there are an enormous number of ‘large’  - and I do mean large - women about. Something rarely seen in Fr in past times.

Mists and mellow fruitfulness

We awoke to a misty river, blanket grey. A solitary fisherman was casting into the former mill leat below our window and the Pont Napoleon reflected its arches in circles.  But by the time we were off and out things were clear. It had been a good hotel, quite luxurious in some ways with a fabulous french window overlooking the water and big comfy king bed and single bed.

The objective first off was a breakfast so we parked up by the railway footbridge and walked down through the abbaye onto the main street. I might have mentioned in years gone by that the 19th century rail freaks just chopped their way through this ancient building! 

Anyway we found a café just down the street that had three viennoiseries left and served good coffee and waited  until just after 9 when the cloisters opened. Adam and I had a half hour mooch round.

A lot of yesterday and today was driving through intensive fruit production - much of it apples, mostly an unappetising creamy pale pink colour. We imagine they must be for juice - every now and then there was a DIY distributor unit at the end of the netted rows. Also some kiwi fruit and pears…oh and vines, vines, vines!

As we got into Aquitaine there were more and more of those disused tobacco drying sheds once used for Gauloises and Gitanes. And then my surprise treat! I’d woven our way a bit off piste to Le Mas d’Agenais, a small bastide village, and the church which houses the only Rembrandt not in a museum or private collection. Christ on the Cross.

Wonderful and so low key.

After that really it was just a few hours up through the vineyards and rolling Charente Maritime to Ibis Rochefort. Via the snails bien sûr! Crêpes and galettes for supper and then flake out. We’re here two nights for R and R🤗.

Moving inland

 

We had a lovely meal in La Pacheline before enjoying our one night in comfort in Seahorse Flat. I think we may return…

Then up at the crack to watch sunrise over the étang, 

a stroll down to the lights and coffee/viennoiseries at a quayside caff.

And then off round by Agde then Béziers ringroad and up into the Minervois. Climbing all the while and tbh a bit grim through St Pons and Labastide Rouairoux. I still find it hard to believe I actually knew people who bought houses there! More than one…

We had a brief stop in Castres so Adam could bag some architecture. 

Goya Musée, Hôtel de Ville etc. I would have loved to go in but we hadn't time and after all, I have been to the Prado dontchaknow!

Lovely town.

Then on and on through rolling productive land. Sandwiches by some unknown river. Buildings of Toulouse brick now. It was feeling warm - 24 degrees - despite the grey clouds.

And finally by some nifty remembered shortcuts we avoided Montauban and arrived at Moissac over the Napoleon Bridge and spotted our hotel right on the river. It’s the old mill. Here is the confluence of the Tarn and Garonne and we slogged up the far bank to a viewpoint to see this. Took ages to find the right road because they keep stopping the signage just as you get close! Anyway, Tarn on the left, Garonne coming up from the top.

Our room is right overlooking the river and as an added bonus (aren’t they all) there was a brigade of sapeurs pompiers doing water rescue training.

scorcchio

 

We were off by 9 and not sorry to leave behind the house of Buddha and shabby chic (not so chic mind you)! Very sad to leave home turf though and we lingered in Violès over coffee and croissants before heading down to the Rhône bridges and out of Vaucluse.

We took the slow route on ordinary roads down past Pont du Gard and through the étangs. Brilliant blue sky, temperatures into upper 20s! Stopped for a walk on the sand near Frontignan and a gaze down the canal. 

Lots of flamingoes and herons.

Then a snifter in Bouzigues, desperately keeping out of the sun - I mean really, on 12 October!

And finally here we are in our apartment in Marseillan. Down by the port just two streets from the water. All mod cons…what a difference from the past month. Noilly Prats have been secured and we’re just flaking out before our supper in La Pacheline, literally at the end of the street.

Last day in Villedieu

 

We leave in the morning so are packing and eating up. It’s not a bad day and we’re off for a final stroll round Rasteau. Not a long walk - Adrian isn’t up to it, it’s been wet so the earth is claggy, and the hunters are out.

But a nice sit in the sun at the bar then back to base via Buisson.

Elderly chat snoozing by the sofa in the square.

And we manage a breezy lunch on the terrace. Tomorrow it’s off to Marseillan on the first leg of the return.

Final Saturday

 

And sunny again, hooray. We just pottered off to Ste Cecile, nothing exciting. Then a visit to Puyméras where they’d had a total power outage! But a final BIB was purchased and a drink in the bar obtained.

And a late lunch on the square in Villedieu. 

Afternoon in Le Crestet enjoying the magnificent views.

So not much doing really and tbh I won’t be sorry to leave this house! Not the area, which I totally love, sigh.

Rain and Shine

Well the last few days here are a bit of a mixed bag. Poor old Adam seems to have brought the change of weather. Thursday started off OK though and we ventured off to Visan.  

But like fools we went out into the town without waterproofs and of course it decided to absolutely tip down! 

So drowned rats that we were, we limped off to Richerenches up the road for a coffee in the little bar/resto. Felt a bit bad not having lunch because he‘s such a nice chap and always so chatty. Never mind, he had other takers. 

Then home via our village coop for a box of Merlot to ease our sorrows.

Today dawned totally differently. Sunshine, brisk wind, all sharp as a pin. The odious green one defeated in Holborn (not that it affects me really). We were up for a day out. 

Adam set off early to walk to Buisson and we picked him up en route for a final lunch at As de Coeur. It was all very good - inside because it was still a bit chilly. We didn‘t question David about the sale - Annaëlle explained it had been on the cards for a long time and she was hoping it wouldn‘t sell !

Then we spent the afternoon by the Rhône, mostly watching the container barge Zeus pass through the Caderousse lock! We know how to live…

A brief sit and sup in the windy square on our return, alongside the French equivalent of Motherland and a gang of elderly bikers, one of whom seemed to be drinking a pot of tea!

Inclement

 

To say the least! Torrential rain all night and Malaucène market greatly reduced this morning. But we needed lasagne and breakfast so out we trotted.

Then what? Aha…Ventoux perhaps. But no, it was completely clouded. So, a compromise and we skirted up through Bédoin round to Sault.

Not much doing really but we found a crêperie attached to the historic church and it was actually very nice. Smartly decorated too. A couple of pretty ladies came in and sat next to us and obviously had no idea about Brittany because  they didn’t know what a bolée de cidre was or where the vallée de la Rance is (well not immediately). Adrian told them a chair was broken and one replied ‘thank you’ without hesitation.

Home via the other side of Ventoux and a walk around Brantes - a brief respite in the rain.

This evening it is lightning and thundering over to the Rhône.