Windy Weekend

Really! Yesterday we got buffeted along to Ste Cécile for the market and stood in glacial north east gusts buying produce before retreating to the calm and warmth of Bar l’Union. After which we pretty much stayed indoors apart from a brief foray to buy cakes.

Today however it was glorious blue sky and the wind was somewhat less ferocious. Rasteau called to us. We obeyed and drove over. Only to be greeted by people in hi viz on road junctions and rather a lot of parked cars. What was afoot? Or more to the point, what was a-bike? 

They were having some sort of trail bike event…crowds of people in helmets on expensive machines were milling around the square, the forest fire and rescue truck was there, catering vans and bbq sausages, chips, beer stalls, children doing a mini BMX course, PA interviews. 

It was amazing. Apparently organised by the Primary School as a fundraiser.

We found some seats sort of out of the wind and had drinks in the sun. Our café man brought us a free dish of crisps, that were in danger of being blown away - in fact the last ones did go flying along with one of the chairs!

Adrian and I went for a short walk up to the ridge. The wind was great - not cold at all. Some iris are out but the vines are still asleep. Everything was looking lovely - long views in every direction.

Skirting Ventoux

Another glorious blue day but strong winds threatened. So we put on warmish clothes in anticipation and headed off for a trip along the Toulourenc top road. I was sweltering because in the car out of the wind it was hot. Even when we got out for photo ops it was fairly warm - at least in the shelter of the hills. Out in the open there was certainly a stiff icy blast. Ventoux north side was like a christmas card, all white-topped with snow sparking in the sunlight.

We made stops in Savoillans and Brantes, hoping for a café. But all was closed. So onwards we went to Montbrun. We know there are places there. There were, but how to get to them? More roadworks and routes barrées!The whole of France is fettling its pavements! Is there some directive to install mobility scooter width trottoirs? Anyway we wiggled our way round the déviation and parked by the nice hotel we’d once eaten in. It was only 12.20 but upon enquiring if they had a table for three we were politely shown the door - complet!

Undeterred, we tiptoed round the roadworks and found that the crêperie in the square was open and had tables on the terrasse sheltered from the gales. In fact they were offering a rather nice special of seafood tagliatelli in cuttlefish ink. Friendly quick service and good puds to follow - caramel beurre salé crêpe (Adrian), faisselle with lavender sirop (me) and three little tropéziennes with chestnut purée (Anne).

Very happy, we continued the girdling of Le Géant via Sault and Chalet Reynard. The lavender fields are colourless grey ridges, spelt fields just a scattering of white limestone pebbles. A few trees are leafing up. We saw a flock of sheep being driven in the distance and another in its pasture guarded by a big white Patou. Then half way up the mountain we glanced back and spotted the long jagged white peaks of the snowy Alps. No snow on our road though.

Last stop Les Vignerons de Ventoux in Bédoin for a box of their best red. I was turfed out of the car into the wind to obtain this while my companions sat in warm comfort. 

Villedieu

Anne arrived yesterday in sun and north wind. Today the sun was still shining and the wind was less, so we upped and drove to Villedieu for lunch. Greeted warmly by the owner. Bassin once more gushing water and…Hooray! a replacement tree!

There was much civic beautification underway with hosepipes, sand blasters and angle grinders centred on the church and town walls. In fact the whole village is looking very spruced up.

We were joined, discretely, for lunch by a self- effacing hound called Tina (on her collar). She started off with a genuine Downward Dog yoga pose, held for several minutes, and finished by lying in the sun by my chair. Inbetween times peering guardedly under the table at a bold cat.

Food good and it was lovely to be back in the square.

After lunch it was another trip to the tip. Via Tulette for fuel and then fortunately past L’As de Coeur. Why fortunately? Because we were hoping to lunch there tomorrow but saw a notice in the door saying closed until 31 March. Will have to think again. The tip was busier but less frenetic than the other day. I hauled everything to the various bins while Adrian sat in the car queuing. It’s what wives are for after all.

another one bites the dust

We were just wandering home after morning tea and cake in the Kaiser’s sunny garden when - shock horror! Mr. Bonfils the Butcher has drawn blinds and notices in the window. He has closed, the shop is for sale. So sad. He was struggling with a dodgy knee for years, wife with hip, and they just couldn’t afford to shut for the three months recovery time if they had surgery. I guess it all got too much. I’ll have to enquire of Mme’s sister who works at Gravillas next time we go for some wine. But it’s another sign that Sablet is changing.

After lunch we had a cathartic trip to the tip with junk and oddments from the garage. You know the sort of thing…odd bits of wood, bolts, plant pots, metal poles and old duvets that you think might come in useful but never do. The place was the usual mayhem of heavy tipper lorries, people scuttling around searching for the correct container, cars backing up. Lethal! We almost got rid of a birdbath stand we’d used to hold the terrace umbrella. A woman asked if she could have it but then Adrian saw her husband resolutely marching it to the skip!

Sunny today but the promised northerly is gently building up.

What a boar

 

Not a lot to report this Monday. Weather mixed - showers and sun and big fluffy clouds. The nice neighbour across the road informed me we are in for cold and wet and north winds - oh joy! I often have a  chat with him at shutter opening time - he has his fag and coffee on his doorstep of a morning. Wonderful name - Hilarion.

 We tidied up a bit then went into Vaison for filthy lucre to pay to Mr Boukersanna. As this was twice my cash machine allowance I had to present myself, passport and cash card at the actual desk. Then the lady validated another plastic card that I had to use in the cash machine outside authorising the disgorging of assorted notes.

On the way into town as we were passing one of the local vineyards I spotted four young striped wild boar just ambling round the edge! They were long gone by the time we returned so no pic alas.

Message from the Kaisers announcing their arrival so we’ll pop up tomorrow and catch up on news.

I quizzed Mme Moulin about the superette change of ownership. Indeed, Alain and Mimi have gone. Apparently they were fed up and for some reason grumbled about their customers! Mme M and I find this perplexing!

Sunday

A reasonable morning with sun so we took a potter round. Lots of new building works at the houses of departed friends. Not many people about. New owners at the shop.

Anyway we had a snifter at the bar and left-over pizza for lunch prior to heading into Vaison for the marathon 4 hours in the Florian cinema! The place was heaving but fortunately most were queuing for Snow White. We were going to The Brutalist in one of the smaller screens. Still pretty full though and we met our neighbours Nicole and Pascal with the same idea! Enjoyed the film, very comfy seats, came out to wet roads.

The house is warming up thank goodness.

an amuse-bouche…

 …just to keep in touch.

We’ve settled in. Last evening I popped up for a couple of pizzas and as I was waiting happened to notice the origin of meats information.Guess where their chorizo is from? United Kingdom.Chap and I had a laugh about this. Then for some reason he revealed he was a huge Liverpool fan.

Today we hit Vaison a) for cash and b) to enquire of Brandos when we might expect an invoice for the repairs done at the end of October. No time soon it seems, although the lady did say she’d tell the office I’d been in!

Vaison is all roadworks at the moment. Old bridge blocked, road past Brandos and School single file as they install new wide pavements. Same here in Sablet…is there some government accessibility initiative?

Finally we went to Puyméras for some wine and were served by a nice English woman - strange conversing in foreign with someone you can tell is not! And then to the café to sit in the sun with a glass of wine. So nice that we decided to stay for entrecôte frites - Before the clouds and wind descended. The latter just has and windows are banging. But washing is on the line.

So there you are…more anon when we get out and about.

Oo just seen  the Florian programme - The Brutalist is on this weekend so we‘ll probably go Sunday.

Sablet at last

We arrived at 1.00.Window frames all painted and glossy white ! Unpacked, shopped and settled. Geraniums on windowsill and parapet… Boiler roaring away.

But to retrace the day back. Last night we had the fancy meal in the stone walled restaurant right next to the roaring log fire. Zillions of attentive staff, etc etc. It was very nice. Unlike the weather, which was cold with a howling gale from the south east. Our room was absolutely wizzo,  as explained yesterday, and we were loathe to leave. 

This morning the wind was if anything worse, ferocious, blowing tiles off roofs, bending trees. We braved it and walked round the village just to see what we might have missed. Very historic and rather nice. Great viewpoint over all the distant countryside.

But we had to leave, so away we went, bypassing Revel and Castelnaudary. Foolishly as it happened. We should have stopped for coffee before hitting the Minervois. How many decades have we been coming this way! The Minervois is largely a dreary, down at heel area, architecturally grim and seemingly devoid of bar/cafés. We did spot a couple early on in Trèbes with no parking though, but that was before desolation set in. You’d think one of the canal villages would show signs of life. We even stopped in one place and walked to where two chaps were heading, only to find all they were after was lottery tickets!

Things improve the nearer one gets to Narbonne, so eventually we did stop on the main road near Bize Minervois where once we holidayed. Good coffee and bottle of St Jean de Minervois purchased!

We decided to take the autoroute from Béziers as the weather was dry and there wasn’t much traffic. So we got home at about 1 o ‘clock and were relieved to find Mr B had painted the windows and left everything spotless.

Then a quick dash to U Express Beaumes and home via Mme Moulin with supplies. We might have pizza ce soir.

A taste of luxury

 

We did eat in Chez Fred and had a nice meal. Room in Ibis was comfortable but there was a street light under the cathedral and I kept waking up thinking it was morning! Most people wouldn’t have noticed but I need Blackout conditions!

And then…great confusion. I got out the route and addressed the map. They did not match. I was perplexed - had lack of sleep befuddled my brain? Adrian had a look and was overcome with self loathing. He had accidentally jumped a page when writing it out and all was awry. So I quickly worked out an alternative - it wasn’t wildly wrong actually and just needed a few tweeks. For a while we tootled happily down through little roads towards the Dordogne and then the first of several routes barrées hit us. Back and forth we went. Nice scenery and interesting places but well a touch slow. Eventually we hit Lalinde on the river and stopped in the rugby caff for coffee. Wow! The interior has all been modernised and lacks a bit of its old charm. But good coffee, the same group of blokes of a certain age gathered round the big table. I noted the plat du jour was filet of sturgeon with curry sauce and fines herbes mash! Not bad eh.

On we went. Lovely landscape, pretty bastide towns, more roadworks, roadside banks a profusion of cowslips. The wind was getting up by the time we got to lunchtime so we eschewed the viewpoint above the Tarn /Garonne confluence and ate our sandwiches near the rivers in a sports centre woodland!

As we motored south we were on high ridge roads looking towards the Pyrenees. No mountains visible today, just huge banks of billowing clouds being driven by the high winds. They’d turned off the wind turbines! Glorious views.

And so we arrived on the dot of 4. St Félix Lauragais, Auberge du Poids Public, Logis de France, Michelin Restaurant. Lady said something I didn’t quite catch about offering us something free of charge. And then the penny dropped as she showed us to our room - or suite as it turned out! Huge double bed, huge bathroom with bathrobes etc, separate loo, sitting room with sofa bed tv and desk, leading onto a stone balustraded balcony overlooking the countryside! A tea and coffee making landing with fridge of iced water, espresso pod machine etc.

Warming up

 

Very comfortable Kyriad and we didn’t leave until 8! Late for us. Then a nice drive up the lovely Loire to Montsoreau for coffee at the bar followed by croissant and pain aux raisins when the supermarket dépôt de pain across the road opened. This is the olympic flame which passed by in May last year.

We also passed a board marking the Greenwich Meridian somewhere near Champigny.

Quite a leisurely drive in sunshine down through Richelieu, along the Vienne and lunch stop by the banks in Exideuil where a cormorant was diving and swimming in front of us for ages. It had friends.

We got to Ibis Périgueux about 4 despite trying Google directions lady who seemed to want to take us a very strange way so I shut her down and we did our own thing! Straight here. Men are fettling the cathedral outside our window. I have removed cardigan🤗

Hoping to eat at Fred tonight…maybe even outside

away we go

Oh but with such reluctance. After all the grey and cold suddenly we have bright sun, cloudless skies and flowers! We even ate lunch outside on Sunday surrounded by our lovely birds, feeling guilty that we were abandoning them.

Then the trek to Portsmouth, the busy roads, the seemingly endless wait on the dockside. You see we wanted to drive in daylight but the ferry didn’t sail until 11. Never mind, Radio 4 was entertaining and we eventually embarked, ate our free prawns and mayo, and went to bed…only for four or five hours mind you. Ferry arrived just before 6, in the dark of morning. For once we were glad to be last off - the sun was up by then. And what sun. Cloudless bright - that glorious north light of the Normandy coast. Mimosas in every garden…daffodils, celandines too. The works!

Breakfast at Courseulles sur Mer,  Juno Beach. Wow! The best ever croissants, all flaky and buttery. And served with little pots of fig jam! Yum. 

We had a quick dash down the jetty but it was cold. Car pinged 4 degrees frequently! 

Then a trip to Ver sur mer and Arromanches to bag a lighthouse. Then via Bayeux where good fortune diverted us to right in front of the cathedral.

After that it was just making distance. Normandy is lovely though, despite the terrible damage it sustained, and the landscape always interesting. We failed to get sandwiches. Got to Sablé sur Sarthe and found only a bar tabac open (Monday you see) so no lunch. Anyway we weren’t really hungry so just ploughed on down to and along the Loire which was amazingly full of water. 

Finally, into Kyriad Saumur where tea and biscuits awaited us. Same rooms almost as last visit.

We dined in a wine bar brasserie near the château. Hardly anything open on Monday evenings but this was nice, friendly, tasty and, crucially, warm!