Woe! Woe! Thrice Woe!

Well dire warnings about weather but this morning although there were big clouds there was a lovely southerly wind and it was pleasantly warm for brekkie on the terrace. Mind you, Over There (ie the other side of the Rhône) it did look rather black.

Here’s a useful barrier just casually lying about in the vines.

After a bit we decided that we’d risk it and set out for a walk up in the hills above Beaumes, round Domaine de Durban. A favourite spot. Just before Gigondas there were flashing police lights and a huge vehicle lifting crane and diversion signs. A Luton van had tumbled into the ditch. We know these lanes so swiftly cut through to the other main road and were on our way again when there was a God awful claxoning sound from the back seat. Adrian’s phone. I grabbed it and there was a Red Weather Alert for floods…in The Gard! That’s them across the other side of the Rhône.

Undeterred we continued up to our walk. Lovely, windy, huge clouds, shafts of sun. It really was glorious.

Then as I was snapping the scene, MY phone screeched and wailed. Half an hour later they'd decided I ought to be warned too. I’m a better swimmer than Adrian🤗. But still no sign of storm for us. The blackness remained well to the west. 

Anyway we carried on, enjoyed the view and the walk and got back to Beaumes much invigorated. Beer and a rosé in the bar. Weather on my phone app said it was 25 degrees, chance of some rain around 4. Then we felt a few drops. Everyone scuttled to tables under the canopy. ‘It was forecast for 3’ a lady grumbled. Didn’t last in any case.

But more bad news once back in Villedieu. They’ve put back Adrian’s hospital appointment yet again!

In search of vultures

We think this might be our last fine day! Forecasts are not good and clouds are thickening. Still warm though and actually it reached just about 30 again eventually. But I rush ahead… We set off up the Eygues/Aygues -  whatever. All means ‘water’,  just spelled differently. Not that there's much in it . Past Nyons the gorges loom massively either side and there are some serious engineering works about to start. Whole slopes are tumbling down and the road to Gap is soon to be closed - ironically named!

Just before Rémuzat there is a road up to vulture dwellings- lots of nests on the cliff face and you can walk up and look down on them. It’s a fabulous experience. But they are late risers and only a handful had got up this morning as we drove by underneath. Adrian isn’t up to the trek just now anyway.

Instead we continued over the pass back into our softer landscape of lavender and olives. And masses of whitebeam trees dripping their jewel clumps of red berries.

A brief stop at the col - the north face of Ventoux framed between the trees. Neatly shorn rows of lavender with the occasional rogue secondary flower and some speckled orangey butterflies. And yes! a pair of soaring circling vultures out for the day.

Then back down the other side eventually to Buis les Baronnies. Here it’s our Ouvèze cutting a path. But again not exactly a raging torrent. We stopped for a light lunch in the usual restaurant by the bridge. Pastas various and a boule or two of ice cream. Mine was utterly delicious noix de coco. Think creamed frozen Bounty but without the bits🤗.

Back to base via La Poste. This time I extracted the remaining €200 from the Livret A, so now I just have to get documents to HQ begging them to close the account!

An apéro in the square - rather bare without the Bistrot - then bread and cheese on the terrace. Fortunately consumed before the first drops of rain! All good things must come to an end…

ps. Rain failed to materialise!

Fake or Fortune

 

Well neither! It seems that the dodgy coin we accidentally gave Nicole on the market was in fact a standard 10F piece for its day. Worth about 30p.

Monday today. A short amble to Tulette Intermarché for milk and (ssh) Sugarsmacks…don’t ask. Then the market for tomatoes, cheeses, and fresh pomegranate juice from the chap we got some from last autumn. 

And a coffee amid the hubbub of animated voices. Everyone friendly, pleased to see each other.

Menu looks quite tempting. Mind you, waitresses nails were 3 cm long pale turquoise.

Lazy Sunday

It was a lovely totally still, totally grey cloud blanket sky this morning. A real cocoon and warm. I was moved to stroll off to the shop for bread so we could eat on the terrace and survey the valley. Of course it couldn’t last and the sun hacked its way through again by lunchtime!

We just pottered through the back roads to Rasteau as usual. Sat in the caff, mingled with the throng and noticed that the boulangerie had opened again. Chocolate eclairs for later back on our terrace once more. Dull innit!

Ice particles dropping up there.

Things livened up at 6. We were down to the bar for pizzas from Roberto’s van! And a small libation as we waited of course. 

Next door at the Bistrot it was last service of the season. They decamp to Meribel until next May! Our cafeman (whose name I still don’t know even though he tutoies me) tells me they have an enormous business up there employing 150 people. I googled them and wow, so they do…a Michelin Starred chef no less.

Anyway, back on our sunset viewpoint, bon app!

🍇 Ma Belle Marguerite

 Singalong now! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usgL6GsZDDc

In September when the grapes are purple Marguerite pick the grapes with me

Tractors with trailers full of grapes trundling back and forth as we supped our morning coffee and ate somewhat stodgy croissants at le Bar de l’union in Ste Cécile. It was all v pleasant if noisy. Then as I was paying for my lavande miel, Nicole the Honey noticed we’d been slipped a fake euro coin somewhere! We’re good mates though, so she wasn’t suspicious of me thank goodness.

After queuing for goodies and the rest of the shopping it was…you guessed it…more wine! We need to stock up in case we never get here again. Cairanne Coop next stop. No messing here, we know what we want and it was on offer. End of season you see and they need shelf space for what’s to come. Usual question at the till “vous avez un compte?” You bet I do, and unlike yesterday in Ventoux I came up in the screen. Even better, I had more than enough points for a cadeau. Red or white? Rouge of course. And a box of six was brought forth to add to our collection. Not bad eh !

Observe the leetul Fr jeux de mots on this box. KDO. Say it aloud (K is pronounced kah in the Fr alphabet).

We’d had a bit of a scare on the way to market. Coming past l’As de coeur in Roaix I‘d seen an À Vendre notice seemingly on the front door! Surely not. I know the season hadn‘t been brill this summer but even so… So we had to return the same way, more or less. Just a small detour down our back road across the vines. No Hoopoes or Rollers at this time of year but we did almost squash a coypu ambling over the tiny bridge with something in its mouth. As they are vegans I assume it must have been an offspring, but it was in too much shadow to be sure.

A final stop at my tree - climbed it man and boy, don’t y’know.

Then back again through Roaix where closer inspection seems to show the for sale sign on the other part of the building .. phew!

Bédoin and back

We need BIBs of Ventoux wine so the journey was undertaken. The thinking being it’s much quieter not on a market day. So four x 5 litres of best rouge were purchased. But for some reason I am no longer on their books at the Coop. Some Al Melling is though - who he? Surely they haven’t struck me off after less than a year.

Then drinks at the café without the Monday throng of people - most agreeable.

Sandwiches from the boulangerie and off to Road Runner to eat them. Harrumph! He is definitely in need of a trim. Parcs et Jardins need to stir their stumps.

It was still only 1.30 and we really  didn’t want to go back, so home via Entrechaux and soft drinks opposite the Ancienne Poste.

Farewell Kaisers

 It was a bit cooler today but not for long. No rush to be off as we were taking Kaisers for a farewell lunch in Roaix. Which was very nice and convivial under the mulberries.

Then once they were safely returned to Sablet it was round two at la Banque Postale. Imagine then my horror as we entered the car park to see this! Bank with its roof being removed. Men ripping stuff off, crane truck thing looming over it.

Fortunately the inside was still operational, not that that helped much. I was able to empty what was in the Livret A but still not able to close the accounts. Has to be in written form apparently…aagh! Though I now learn they will accept a print out of the documents, so we are making a little progress.

We were in need of restoratives after this. Home via the back route to Villedieu and to the café and fountain. Adrian invested in a Campari and orange juice which must have cost A Lot as that plus my indifferent rosé came to €9.40.

Glorious sunset

Chilling out in the hot sun

 

Wednesday is Malaucène. We missed it last week because we were still adjusting. But this week, off bright and early and front row table bagged at the café, viennoiseries purchased and decent coffee ordered. Double grand-crème. The world was watched and commented on. Cyclists criticised for riding through instead of dismounting, ladies actually buying trinket jewellery from the stall in front of us, others purchasing rattan shopping cabas (es). All to Adrian’s amazement. 

We settled for lasagne, bouchées à la reine, saucissettes from our butcher; figs, strawberries and tomatoes from the market garden and fresh Ventoux goats cheese.

Fighter jets roared overhead as usual. We were HOME.

These amazing boots are just for Wendy 🤗 click to enlarge and you’ll be dazzled.

A word about markets. All the tourist stuff says go to Bédoin on Monday, Vaison on Tuesday, Nyons on Thursday. Pah! They are too big, too crowded, admittedly a great experience once or twice. But if you actually want to buy things to eat then Beaumes de Venise on Tuesday, Malaucène on Wednesday or Ste Cécile on Saturday are much our preferred venues.

We returned via Suzette as always. Old habits and all that. Fabulous views from the top of the winding track to La Bori - the house with the lovely garden for all to share.

As always we encountered the post van!

And as I was snapping this doll-shaped prickly pear, Adrian was engaging the owner in conversation about the house and its history. So proud of him. But you see we’ve been coming up here several times a year for at least 15 and it really is a pilgrimage.

Finally the quest for a camping gaz stove for him to put the Moka pot on. It was nearly midday, Bricomarché shut at 12… We just made it but they didn’t have one. So we drive across the road to Intermarché, where an almost acceptable one was found with box half-opened on the shelf. Much umming and aahing. Eventually I took the bull by the horns and the box to customer service and asked if it was OK and all there. Girl removed the bits and the instructions and we assembled it. Perfect!

Back to base. So hot on the terrace that iPhone has told me it cannot work and needs to cool down!

The Autumn Leaves

 

… got swept up this morning. And how! We’d decided to breakfast in the square and as previously mentioned I’d ordered the croissants from l’épicerie. As we stepped out of the house we were accosted by the most God awful noise of slow moving machinery, whistling hairdryer,/black and decker devices, who knows what. 

Approaching the square, we saw the back end of the road sweeper vehicle trundling down the street behind operative with blower, consuming heaps of desiccated plane leaves. The chap from La Remise café also had a leaf blower driving all he could from beneath bushes and behind barrels and the lady from the chambre d’hôtes was wielding the B and D hairdryer device clearing tables and chairs.

By the time we’d been for the croissants, ordered jambon beurre baguettes for lunch and sat ourselves by the fountain, the vehicle was back, thrusting heaps of leaves and debris into its maw, being fed all the while by the human minions with their blowers and brushes. Deafening! But by gum they were thorough. Not a chair or table was overlooked, even shrubs and creepers got the treatment. They were still at it when we’d finished our leisurely petit déj. 

And when you think how many more leaves are to fall… Sisyphus springs to mind.

The village was otherwise quiet and peaceful and after we’d paid up we took a short stroll up to the Cimitière - because it’s mostly on the level! Then back, not forgetting to admire the pristine streets and gutters of course.

Lazy afternoon - sandwiches from the shop on our terrace in the sun. Then off to Sablet for tea with Kaisers. Getting bit chilly so I might just put on long sleeves.

A new week

Monday. MéteoFrance promises 30+º AND mistral of 70kph. What a combination. I have booked a table for lunch in Vinsobres so we can arise at our leisure and potter off about 11. 

Quite pleasant at this hour and we manage a stroll round the village before bagging our seats under the canopy - bang on the dot, or rather deafening clang, of noon, x 2, natch!

Food is interesting but rather over fussily presented. Still it's a nice place. My fromage blanc pud came with three goblets of fresh confiture. I should have taken a picture, they were really stylish.

After a siesta in the homestead we pottered off to our square for coffee under the shady planes, It was actually cool. Mistral doing its stuff. Alas Monsieur’s coffee isn’t exactly strong. Thin even. So we are devising a different request for tomorrow’s breakfast. Double expresso probably. I’ve reserved croissants from the shop.

Wind’s getting up.

Sunday

 

Feels like we've been here for ages yet it isn’t even whole week. Last night a Gecko came to visit, hiding behind the olive tree and trellis. I love their little splayed out feet.

And today it’s Sunday so that means Rasteau, but we weren’t sure Adrian would be able to do the whole walk. However …nothing ventured and all that. We went and parked in the square and gave it ago. Pretty warm going it was, but he made it! Just a couple of sit downs, which we usually have anyway. And we actually saw wood larks flying above the vines - never seen that before, usually they are just an invisible chorus. The vines have still not been picked up on the top so the grapes must be exploding with sugar content.

Our shattered lonesome pine is even more splintered - nothing much left.

Final stop … The Bar, where camouflage netting has been strung up for shade. Kir and Beer. Then back to Villedieu to flake out. We were going to heat up the spicy sausage and rice purchased from our man on the market yesterday, but couldn’t face it. Just had tea and Eccles cake🤗. It’s 30º, too hot to be on the terrace, so food will have to wait until evening today.

Café culture

 

So nice having the caff in the square to pop down to so off we trotted at 6 ish Friday for an apéro. Cripes! already full, so just as well we hadn’t wanted to eat. 

We were lucky to grab the smokers’ barrel by the door. And a pastis and rosé with a greasy saucisson to nibble. 

The twinkly lights come on and all is v jolly. Antique vehicles putter through.

Saturday morning is Ste Cécile market day. Strange to be going there with no real reason. Well there is.., we need garlic! And of course yogurts and a meal. All so familiar but we are no longer part of it even though we sit at our Bar and drink our grand’crèmes . 

This immaculate lady and her matching offspring complete the scene.

Friday already

Gradually feeling less strange. The mornings are slower to warm up, but they do and cardies are not yet required! Today we fell back into the old routine and took Octavia for a bath at the Ste Cécile carwash. 

Following this it was an emergency loo roll shop in the adjacent U Express…ironic name. The queues for the only two operational checkouts were lengthy and people were there with trolleys stacked high. Woman in front of us first of all paid by counting her sous carefully from her purse then had no bag so had to cram her purchases into flimsy plastic jobs at the same time as the operative was shunting our stuff past them. But we were Cool Man. This is what we came for!

And yes, lunch at L’As de Coeur. We arrived at one minute to 12. There were tables, the mulberries are still in leaf. Annaëlle (mother of Elsa) remembered us. David remembered us. We were content. Good menu - melon and Parma ham and Veal Archduke for Him, Goat’s cheese salade and Monkfish Armoricaine for me followed by panacottas various for pud. 

And then we were presented with a free melon. A bit of an Allan Thomas situation. They get so many from a neighbour that they can’t use them all! 

We rounded off the outing with a drive up to Rabais Sud and potter among the vines. 

Not yet harvested and looking quite plump.