Tenth circle of Hell

Sète. A wonderful place if you can get into it but more often than not, you can’t, and today was definitely a ‘more often’, it is simply a giant traffic jam of vehicles crawling like an endless chain of processional caterpillars. Round and round getting nowhere. The pavements are the same, should you ever be fortunate enough to set foot on them. 

We eventually gave up and went up to the viewpoint and looked down on it. 

And then decided to find our hotel down on the end of the Corniche. Amazingly we did, with ease, and even found a parking spot close by, and Free! Even better, the room was ready even though it was only midday. Charming staff too.

So we sauntered down to the sea and found a restaurant serving OK food overlooking the beach. More charming staff.

Then, loathe to relinquish our parking spot we took to the gravelly pebbly coast path in front of the rather gross modern zigurat holiday apartments overlooking various coves. This then became a proper footpath/cycle track. 

There was a large war memorial to the Martyrs of the Resistance and Deportation and eventually the vestiges of the fort overlooking the port. About a mile and a half each way, and quite hot going! 

Adam continued to the lighthouse at the end of the mole for a closer view of this passenger ferry leaving.

Adrian and I climbed up to the top of the fort - great views of the old lighthouse and Cimitière Marin.

We walked back and had drinks in a bar by the hotel and sat and watched the world go by. Part of this world was a living breathing Klimpt - a woman in slinky irridescent long dress buying a bottle of white from the offie!

Before this I had a strange encounter with an elderly lady with wheelie shopper who stopped me by a potted citrus tree to show me that it was flowering. This lead to a conversation about where I was from and then that she had visited Blenheim Palace, Churchill and De Gaulle hated each other but the English had saved France from the Germans in both World Wars. Brexit was a disaster. Macron is a ‘con’…as were most Presidents, etc etc. 

And now to return to our departure. We left by 8. House in showroom condition with a vase of peonies on the table. Very sad to leave as always. And just as we were packing the car Hilarion our neighbour from en face came out with a box of six bottles of his red wine! And this is not any old plonk believe me. So generous. Not only that but also a waterproof zip up…I think it must be one of their promotional ones! We have such sweet neighbours.

Hidden valley

We had to be out again this afternoon for another Visit… So, a house clean and tidy was undertaken last night and this morning. Fresh peonies in a vase on the kitchen table etc. Before we left we were treated to La Patrouille throwing a few celestial shapes in the blue sky. Mere specks I am afraid because I no longer have a proper camera.

Then it was off to Roaix for a final lunch - outside in the sun at last. Adam and I enjoyed our magret and chips. Adrian had a disappointing steak. But the event was pleasant despite it. And after that we ventured towards Malaucène and the valley of cherry trees tucked beneath a flank of Ventoux. Not been there for a while. And as we approached, the sky in front thickened and blackened ominously. We snaked our way along lanes bordered with venerable cherry plantations, truffle oaks and steep cliffs, deeper and deeper into the valley. We stopped at the end where footpaths set off up the mountain and just enjoyed the sounds and smells.

Back along the road there’s a small hamlet, Ste Marguerite, with a tiny restored XII century chapel and fabulous views. 

It has a couple of interesting looking stained glass windows - even from the outside.

It’s thought the stone for the original building came from a quarry up the road that also supplied stone for some of Vaison’s Roman monuments as well as for repairs following the devastating 1992 flood.

You can still see bits of this quarry on the cliffside with the marks of the hand tools used to cut the blocks.

And a more recent (1980s) addition to the landscape on one wall! Done by a couple of local chaps. They nicknamed him’Johnny’.

Last Saturday

We went to Ste Cécile, but later than usual, as all we needed was bread and milk. Lovely and bustling as ever. Sad to say goodbye for the summer.

Then on to Vinsobres up near Nyons. An interesting largeish village we occasionally skirt round when we drive through the hills. A prestigious wine.

But today we had a walk through the streets and a drink at the bistrot. It had always previously been heaving when we went. Today however the place was quiet and empty.

This afternoon we went to the flicks in Vaison to see the latest Mike Leigh film, Hard Truths. A bit hard going but a really good film

Out and about

 Enjoying the area…

Yesterday after Malaucène we headed up the Toulourenc again. Busier than before but not too bad. The usual stop in Savoillan where the famous boulangerie is still not open.

Then up to Montbrun where we veered off up the upper gorges of the river along a steep narrow windy road. Much starker landscape here - none of your lush river valley meadows any more, but cliffs and waterfalls instead.

Eventually we circled round towards the valley of our own Ouvèze and stopped in Buis for a belated mini quiche and drink at Bar des Glycines where we watched the market detritus being swiftly collected and swept up.

Today we had to disappear for a couple of hours because we had a viewing (groan). House quickly cleared and cleaned and we drove off for a long walk above Durban to the Tour Sarrasine. 

It was lovely if a bit blustery at times. And for the first time in ages there were other people! How very dare they! But they soon disappeared and we mostly had the place to ourselves.

And it was heartening to see this safety notice about when to walk during the hunting season. We so often give the vines a miss in autumn because of the fear of being mistaken for wild boar! This was really helpful information.

A refreshment stop in Caromb for a drink, then a walk round Le Barroux and home. John and Louise’s this evening.

Tales of the Riverbank

Another nice day…we can’t believe our luck. After a quick shop at Beaumes U Express we headed out to the Rhône and a walk along the levée near the Halte Nautique. It was a bit blustery to start with so I donned sunglasses and hood to protect my rheumy eye. 

All the way along we were accompanied by singing nightingales hidden in the bushes down by the water. And then an absolute cacophony of frogs on the lily pads. But no boats, hardly any other birds. There was evidence of recent sheep passage though.

Great stands of yellow flag iris in the Meyne river that runs alongside and spikes of mullein on the bank.

Adam and I continued to the big bridges only to find the old road bridge closed to traffic. Lots of vehicles obviously hadn’t seen the notice and came only to have to do a U turn. We like to watch the world’s commerce zoom across the motorway bridge - lorries from all over!

After that it was Caderousse and lunch on the terrace of La Providence. Really nice.

A short potter round the streets.

And finally a road trip up the river across the big lock and via the Marcoule mega nuclear reprocessing plant to St Etienne des Sorts, just about the last village actually on the river. We usually gaze at it from the other side when we walk along over there near Mornas.

Easter Monday

Lovely day but we had to stay in for the electrician. And then suddenly in the middle of breakfast I got a stinging pain in my left eyelid that has incapacitated me all day with piggy eye redness  etc. Awful. Can’t see through the streaming. Not sure if it’s pollen, dust, eyemakeup…Whatever, I feel and look a thousand years old🫣 Mr Attout the electrician said what have you done, your eye’s all red. I know says I grimly…

Anyway we retired to the terrace while he drilled and hammered for hours putting in a trip switch and trying to find the end of our earth cable. I was fearful he might hit a water main at one stage. But no, all was done and paid for. €100 deduction as he only needed to put in one trip switch, not two. And we are instructed to water our earth every five months or so to keep it damp. Who knew!

While he was here nine Mirage jets flew over in low formation, impressive. Must be most of France’s fleet. They are based at Orange so we often see a couple, but this was exceptional.

And then a pale blue electric Gendarmerie vehicle drew up outside and an agent went into next door. Was it a drugs bust, taking a statement…? of course not, he’d come for lunch and emerged two hours later clutching a bottle of wine!

Sunday

Amazingly today is fairly calm and sunny. We really weren’t expecting this. And so after obtaining bread and chouquettes from Mme Moulin we ventured out up the track between Sablet and Gigondas where the hunt kennels and chocolatier reside. It’s a nice drive up into the vines below St Amand.

It was a bit breezy up there but wonderful views and cuckoos, nightingales etc. Some of the vines are so old they need bandaging! The chocolatier is closed from today until September for some sort of ethical ecological reason so no goodies to be had.

Doggies were contained in their pens and kennels but they seemed happy enough, greeting all passers by with woofs and wags. We encountered the odd walker and cyclist but pretty much had the place to ourselves. I walked down leaving Adrian photographing. And came across this solitary wild narcissus.

At the bottom of the road we turned left and headed for Vacqueyras for a drink. And once again we met neighbour Hilarion with his mates! The menu board tempted us in even though we had no intention of eating out today. And it wasn’t busy surprisingly seeing as how it is Easter Sunday when the world and its wife seem obliged to gather for a vast meal. Anyway it was very good, not fancy but well cooked, and we enjoyed it.

Home via the roundabout for strawberries - the young sellers were sitting on the grass playing chess! And now we are sitting on the terrace with tea and choux buns until we set out for Avignon TGV to get Adam.

Easter Parade

Sun’s out, so is the south west gale! We bounced across Le Plan to Ste Cécile a little later than usual and when we got there it was heaving. But anyway we snaked in and out of the crowds, obtained a meal from our chap, yoghurts, meats from Elodie, strawberries and asparagus and croissants to eat with coffee. But oh my! The plane trees are in full irritation mode. Everyone was coughing and sneezing, the bread lady had a full serious mask to protect herself from the pollen. Adrian was covered in bits of flower stamens from the trees above our café table.

And it’s warm. They are saying 20 degrees this afternoon.

We returned via Cairanne for a BIB and Rasteau for a drink in the square. Very blustery and pleasant.

First swift but no hoopoes.

No room at the inn

Sunshine! The only day apparently so we had to make the most of it. Firstly by getting some washing done.

Then a walk up above Roaix looking over a snowy-topped Ventoux and accompanied by the sound of nightingales and a clay pigeon shoot.

We didn’t want lunch as N Ireland are coming round for pizza tonight so we meandered over to Villedieu intending to have a drink in the square. Silly us! It was 1 o’clock by the time we got there and every table was taken. Monsieur and his helpers were dashing in and out like mad things carrying plates laden with food. We considered just getting a glass from the bar and sitting on the stone bench. 

But once inside we decided to stay there. So much more fun watching from within. Monsieur thought it was amusing that we didn’t want to sit in the sun. Anyway we had two rounds of frites, pression and vin blanc and jolly good they were.

Soggy bottoms

We had torrential rain and a short storm around midnight and this morning decided it really was not market weather! Around 10.30 the rained eased off so we relented and went off to Malaucène via Vaison (for money). The town was heaving for some reason. Surely not just Easter holidays? Lots of German vehicles…

Then on to Malaucène straight to the café, gathering Viennoiseries en route. This too was packed - only part of the terrace was covered you see - but there was one table on the edge. I sat down and wished I hadn’t! The seat was soaking. Sir Walter Adrian offered to lay his metaphorical cloak over the puddle and took my place. I think he also wished he hadn’t. Anyway we stayed put, enjoyed the coffees and sweetmeats and watched the passing parade. 

Although we hadn’t thought we’d buy anything this time, the butcher was too tempting and he seemed by this time to have quite a short queue. Ha! Never bank on it. Two women were stocking up for a siege and the next, an elderly lady who’d been bravely standing for what seemed like hours, proceeded to quiz Monsieur as to why he had no horse meat today! Long explanations and repartee and then at last it was our turn. We were decisive and snappy and held no one up!

Despite the frankly awful weather we didn’t want to just return home straightaway so we tootled off to Entrechaux to our Wisteria café for a glass of something - it was by now after midday, so legit. Only two tables actually under the awning. One already taken by four people (more Germans). We grabbed the other. Oh oh…more sodden chairs, this time with the addition of little purple wisteria blossoms. We were past caring. Our cheerful lady owner joked that the petit blanc would warm us up.

About turn and home via Bédoin for boxes of wine. As it was still not quite 2pm we took a walk down the main street that we so rarely see empty of humanity. Not terribly inspiring at lunchtime in the rain but it was OK. Lots of happy diners behind restaurant windows.

And finally into Les Vignerons du Ventoux, and away, with two BIBs and a full bidon of AOC rouge. Stopping briefly on the roundabout at Vacqueyras for asparagus and strawberries.

Orange

 

Another wet day. We are due a few of them I fear. But anyway there are things to be done, one of which is to cancel our redundant landline, not used since before Covid! It is suspended so I am €14+ in credit. And so we proceed to Orange in Orange. Or rather, we don’t. Where once there was their boutique there is now a smart travel agency. The bright young pair at their screens inform me Orange is now down the road on the Carrefour commercial centre. 

It now being 15 mins to midday we have no hope of getting there before shutdown so instead we walk to the Théâtre Antique and sit at a café with kir and pastis.

Orange Ville is looking better - smarter and cleaner. Despite its appalling politics.A motorised scrubbing brush was being driven round the square in front of the Hôtel de Ville asticating the marble paving, new apartments are being created from Haussman style buildings. All very ‘comme il faut’. Trendy little shops and a general air of well being.

The rain started and we headed home discussing whether or not to stop for a plat somewhere. In the end we decided on Roaix and got there just before 12.45…a bit late for us! But we were welcomed and got the last 2 seater table, me with a clear view of France 2 lunchtime news. What revelations…

American tourists are flocking to Nice in their thousands, vile weather is about to hit us, Dark chocolate is better for your teeth, The provinces are entraining en masse to Paris to protest about underinvestment in regional train services and Birmingham’s éboueurs are still on strike (cue close up of a dead rat as I tuck into my navarin of lamb).

As we were eating, the heavens did indeed open and rain thundered down. Fortunately it had exhausted itself by the time we were leaving but we fear the worst tonight.