Random Harvest

 A little photographic essay of our local coop Gravillas. We’d wondered why so many vines are still not picked and it appears the harvest is still going on into October. It was certainly very busy in the fields on the way across Le Plan this morning. Big machines, tractors and trailers, vans, actual human beings in the hectares of La Présidente.

I walked down to Gravillas after the shopping. The vats are open and conditions displayed.

Adrian collected me plus two bibs. Note the new minimalist packaging!

light and shade

 

Both natural and artificial! The sky is clear and blue and last night the moon was so bright I thought the street lights were still on. However, indoors, one of our light switches decided to meet its maker. It was a two way switch, the one at the top of the stairs, so quite important. Groan…would it require an electrician? We don’t even know one and they are probably as rare as plumbers for small jobs. Adrian inspected and opined he might be able to fix it. We went to Brandos complete with photo of the innards and located a replacement then asked the lady how to install it. They always know! Back home it was, as Nigella is wont to enthuse, A Matter of Moments! Success.

Anyway after Brando and extraction of 500 smackers from La Poste Hole in the Wall, we pottered up to the hills round Villedieu for a short road walk. It’s hot today and the pines smell divine. Round here there are masses of pyracantha hedges laden with berries. In Devon these would long since have been stripped by blackbirds.

And also, curiously, so many unpicked grapes and many shrivelled bunches. We noticed the same in Rasteau. Puzzling. But the mega machines are hard at work so perhaps it’s just taking longer than usual.

When we first came here this huge house was a mere ruin. Now look at it!

We finally got to the square and sat by the tinkling fountain for coffee. Dutch folk were already ordering lunch at 11.45. They have to have it on the table on the dot of 12 you see! It was a bit of a traffic jam - tractors with grape trailers, La Poste van, and then an absolutely huge German camper van the size of Belgium tried to squeeze down the street. Just as it had all gone quiet again there was the roar of motorbikes and a party of English beleathered bikers drew up, snapped their machines on the phone, and were heard to say ‘It’d be rude not to have a coffee wouldn’t it?’ ‘ Er no,’ thinks I…  ‘go away!’ They didn’t, but at least were asked to move their bikes from the square by several people- the cook at the café and two employees of La Mairie.

Bonjour tristesse

 Oh dear. Our lovely neighbours are moving. They have sold their house and are off to live next door to their son in St Just sur Loire! We went round for apéro last night and heard all about it. It was a sudden decision and I think there is still some trepidation on their part. And Minouchette will be going too… and their sweet dog Kenzo who seems to like us! So we leave on the morning of 26 October and their removal van arrives in the afternoon that same day. Very sad.

For now we have the Kaisers and Danes and N Ireland, and Berkhamstead arrive Friday night.

We spent this morning doing admin and tidying. Our American guests left us the world supply of colourful coathangers so we’ve removed our tatty cheap ones to take to the tip. Then Adrian was switching a bank account (under supervision) to grab another £200 and linked 8% saver with Nationwide. I’d spotted this one in Martin’s Money Tips yesterday.

Our local wine producer at the bottom of the steps was tipping grapes into his ‘coal hole’ - we could smell it from our front door! It feels autumnal but still warm. My starlings are whistling and clicking.

Alone again, or

The day had come. B was leaving. So to TGV we wended our way. We’d left masses of time so it was a bit galling to find the ruddy Ouigo was 30 mins late already! Nevertheless B said she could manage and we left her under the departures board. 

We had intended to go to the other side of the river and have coffee but turnings were missed and we ended up on a straight road behind the campsite heading north. However this proved to be a serendipitous error for we discovered a new bridge and back way to Avignon from Roquemaure. 

As we were now at the Rhône crossing where roads railways and TGVs enter Vaucluse we decided to have a little walk under the bridges and enjoy the hubbub of transport. 

Quite a good haul today - thundering juggernauts, a river patrol speed boat, huge blue barge and trains. 

And arty farty reflections 

Not just any trains either but the very one carrying our dear friend to Lille Flandres! How do we know? Elementary, dear whoever. Train was 30 mins late so we deduced it would leave at approx 11.10 and be at the Rhône some nano minutes later. Two Ouigos crossed the bridge around 10.12 and 10.16 respectively. Both were snapped. B sent email saying that she had left Avignon at 10.09 ergo one of them had to be her! Take your pick.

So then it was getting on for lunchtime and we decided to go to Roaix. Good decision. The place was busy and lovely under the mulberries. David greeted us with kisses and handshakes and the food was tasty. After which we went,  finally,  for a proper visit to J and L in Gigondas and a good catch up chat.

Weather warming up again.

Guest’s last day

 

But a lovely one! We set out after breakfast to St Hilaire where I deposited the two intrepids at Notre dame d’Aubune so they could climb up via the cliff path. I drove the car round to Durban, parked up neatly under a bank and walked to the chapel the other way. Beautiful day, calm and quiet and deserted or so I thought until I heard a faint clank from the Hermit Hut. There was a woman outside, so thinking she was on retreat, I kept away and out of sight and sat waiting for my companions.

Eventually Tensing and Hillary summited and the woman appeared by the church calling to us. Did we want to have a look inside before she closed up? Turns out she is not a Holy Woman but a volunteer who comes every day to tidy up and prepare the cabane for Real Hermits, two of which were due any day! 

She told us more about the restoration and we said we’d been coming for many years observing the works. Then she picked up a book from the side and said it was a present for me - would not accept any payment. It’s an account written by her and her husband (an artist) of their five month walk from Vézelay to Kiev in 2012. How generous.

We walked back to the car then B and I continued down the track towards Lafare while Adrian drove round to meet us. Genius planning eh! Super views.

Then lunch…Villedieu. Got there at 12.30 and were allocated a table in the shade by the fountain - perfect.  Good food, great atmosphere. Just what you imagine Provence is like ( on a good day!). Finally home to flop. Rumour has it that temps are rising to 31 on Friday…aagh!

Sunday

The mornings are getting cooler and I think the duvet maybe deployed soon! But it is clear and sunny, no longer humid with a fresh breeze. Much relief all round. This morning we got going in leisurely fashion then set off for the ritual Rasteau walk. The square was quite bustling and there’s a new restaurant that said it was closed until April next year. However there were tables and chairs set up and signs of food preparation. Puzzling.

Anyway before exiting the village we went up to the boulangerie to get cakes and bread - their bread is delicious. Amazing eclairs with custard yellow icing - lemon and basil - so we had to have those!

Nice walk, not too hot, but strange to see lots of slopes with still unpicked vines some of which had bunches of really shrivelled grapes. 

We ended up in the bar for beer and kir and then became aware of groups gathering at the so called closed restaurant. Then plateaux of oysters and seafood were carried out, glasses, bottles, the works! Some sort of event obviously.

Lunch on the terrace, more food to come! we are stuffed. Then more rugby this evening.

market and river

 

Ste Cécile this morning. It was a bit chilly with strong north wind and Nicole the Yoghurt was wrapped up in her thick coat! She actually likes the heat. But it was warm enough to sit out for our coffee so not that bad.

Purchases done (or rather overdone in my case on the cooked ham) we returned home for bacon sandwich and tea before striking out again. This time to Mornas and the Rhône. It was my turn to choose and they indulged my fancy. Down among the secret lanes and onto the river path. No boats and only two herons, one cormorant and some unidentified birds of prey. But it was a bracing walk into the wind on the way to the bridge. Lots of trains. Brilliant blue sky and warm sun.

Exercise over we went up to Le Bar du Coin for a drink. Sat down and then ladies came out saying Sorry but they were closing! We’d just got up to shuffle down to the next café when man comes out and says we can stay but he’ll leave us to it once he'd served us. This has often happened to us at other places - we simply leave the glasses by the door!

mountains and hills

 

Those that are north of Nyons and Sault - our targets for today. Along the Toulourenc we drove, stopping here and there for walks and snaps.All very green and lush - no signs of drought here.

Then behind Montbrun and up the gorge getting farther and farther from the known world. A handful of vultures were spotted heading for the stratosphere and soon invisible. Not many humans about. B and A enthusing about the rocks and the views. We stopped occasionally for a stroll or a survey of the peaks. One such spot had a crab apple tree with a carpet of fallen fruit rotting aromatically and attracting flocks of drunken butterflies. Amazing huge clouds.

On the way down we passed a big Resistance Necropolis with the memorials to a whole group killed on 22 February 1944

It was well after two when we got back to Montbrun hoping for a drink, having resigned ourselves to no lunch. But luck was with us and we chanced upon a salon de thé serving basically vegetarian quiches etc where the kind lady ushered us in to eat. Turns out she is English but long an expat who had recently set up this establishment. It was really very nice.

Finally a walk up to the top of the town along cobbled lanes. Home via Puyméras for a bidon of their best Côtes du Rhône and (ssh) Lidl for cucumber gin…except they didn’t have any!

On est chez nous

 Well we are here. First evening it was pizzas at the bar in the warm sun. Yesterday Malaucène market where we were accosted by John and Louise and a ball of fur in the shape of Poncho! Then a walk above Suzette.

It rained last night and has turned grey but still warm. B and I had an hour and a bit walk up into the vines this morning. Still some grapes to be harvested. 

And then we scurried off for lunch at Puyméras. Just a simple daube and crème brûlée but very nice. 

Obviously the locals are getting resentful🤗

And the plumber has just phoned! He will come by this evening…débordé de travail of course. They always are!

Sablet

 We got in at 3 as expected. House fine if a little crowded with American gifts - all useful so no complaints. Shopped, had tea and unpacked and will go to bar later for apéro and pizza. Of course!

Anyway to rewind a bit…Last night we dined at the place next to Ibis B on the recommendation of the manager. Leonie is the name and tasselled exuberant lampshades is the theme! Surely not unlike Tea ‘n Tat at Bridge Farm🤗 And curiously akin to the visual cacophony in Albi cathedral. The day had its own leit motif. Food was local and good, service impeccable. We stuffed ourselves on Aligot with sausage and various starters and left more than replete. So all in all this is a winning hotel stop.

This morning we were away by 7.30 and into the Causses at Le Caylar for breakfast.A little chilly but nevertheless we sat out. I had wandered into the bar obviously with a glazed look because the owner said Are you looking for Croissants? I haven’t put them out yet. So they appeared as did delicious coffees and all was well.Then a chara from Maguelone (on the coast) drew up and disgorged about thirty plus walkers with rucksacks and poles. And off they trooped into the hills.

The journey continued getting ever more rugged. We had to stop for a flock of sheep heading towards us. Then a visit to Vissec and a short walk along the dry river.

 Finally the Cirque de Navacelles and a walk along the river at the bottom. It is much gentrified since our first visit there over 35 years ago when we had the place to ourselves and swam in the river.

 

Cathedral bagging

 

It was a very misty morning as the rains evaporated in the heat but by the time we exited the hotel all was clear and sunny. Into Condom centre to visit the wonderful cathedral and say hello to the Musketeers and sit opposite with good coffee and viennoiseries various.

Hotel wasn’t bad and the restaurant was good. But the bémol as the Fr say was a group of mixed nationality folk who gathered in the gap between our table and the bar having a pretentious one upmanship chat in loud voices! No idea what they were attending - some tour or other -  but finally they went and sat at their table.

The journey then took us through the rolling landscape with views to the distant Pyrenees. Endless fields and slopes of sad sunflowers, their glory faded, heads drooped, turning their poor shrivelled necks to the sun to ripen their seeds. In summer this is a glorious swathe of yellow.

Lunch was almost a failure - no river or lake or even canal appeared. So in desperation I took us down through an unprepossessing village towards the Tarn. I had almost given up hope, when I spotted the road (ie track) name…chemin du côte du port! And yes there was a bench right on the river bank - with view.

Replete and rested we set course into Albi. No trouble at all finding our way to the cathedral and even free parking. It was hot, Albi always is. We stood like mini Borrowers beneath the giant-sized austere brick edifice then into the madness of the interior where every surface is painted and decorated. Think Angel Strawbridge in manic wallpaper mode.

Could this be Tilda Swinton?!

Finally a drink to set us up for the final leg to Millau via St Affrique. Easy road and changing landscape to more rugged moorland and steep valleys. Only took 2 hours so we were under the viaduct and into Ibis Budget by 5. And I have to say this is probably the best hotel. Super new shower room, big beds and clean. Pity about the stench of muck spreading though. Home from Home.

The Southern Shore

 

Or left bank. Of the Gironde. The plan was to get the 8.30 ferry but silly me had looked at the wrong dates and it is still running at either 7.45 or 9.30 so as it was already 7.30 we decided to drive into Royan and have a coffee there and get the 9.30. However as we were approaching the corniche we saw the ferry chugging in from Le Verdon and thought we’d be too late to get on it (it was now 7.40) but we screeched down into the port and asked ticket chap if we were too late. No! Paid our 50 euros and were directed up the loading ramp. Then even before we opened the car doors to get out, the boat was moving.What unexpected luck. Plus we got breakfast on board.

Bit grey this morning and Beryl reported a thunderstorm last night - I heard nothing! But it’s warm. We spent a while on the end of the jetty then headed down the estuary towards le Phare de Richard. There was a cruise ship parked up down the coast (left hand side in pic if you magnify it), oddly, but I suppose that would be the tours of Rothschild et al.

After that it was the long straight roads through the vines and forests as far as Marcheprime where we had a drink and got sandwiches. Then on and on to Bazas for lunch in the cathedral so-called gardens. Pleasant enough but the place, well everywhere really, was heaving. Sunday you see.

Eventually the countryside became more undulating and arable - maize, millet, more vines, sunflowers - and we were within touching distance of Condom.But first a quick peek at Fourcès, the only circular bastide village.Pretty but obviously touristy. Finally we made the mistake of visiting Larressingle - a fortified village become ice-cream parlour! Masses of people.We escaped and are now in our hotel cooling down. But the hairdryer doesn’t work! Oh yes it does…lady owner came and of course immediately got it working! I am a dolt.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MB4pxmrzEqAHsxPN6