Disconnecting

Wind has gone, sun is warm. We went for a walk along the canal into Beaumes. Just a perfect autumn day.

We parked below Notre Dame d’Aubune more or less opposite the Giant Hands and took the canal path between wild pomegranate trees and canne de Provence. Lots of little birds and lovely colours reflected in the water.

The canal crosss the road just near the boulangerie opposite the old public weigh station. So I bought some croissants which we took up to the bar to eat with coffee and watch the market.

Then back up through the village and along the inspirationally named Chemin de derrière le château to join up with the canal again. Really just putting off the evil hour when I unplug the Livebox and pack it away. We are off to Orange this afternoon to return it.

Fermé le lundi

We are in that limbo period prior to leaving. Still three days to go but aware that we are packing up. So to drive away the blues we headed out in the biting wind and razor sharp skies towards Richerenches where there is an exhibition of Papal Wines (?). Only to find the place closed for some reason. There were lights on but no one in sight. After a walk round the inner village we tried again. This time a lady appeared and said it was closed because there was no-one to man it. Presumably she isn’t qualified! The lanes were a touch gruesome too. Two dead pigeons on adjacent streets, obviously blown against the walls by the wind.

But the countryside looked super and we were happy to be up in the northern bit again. On to Valréas where there is a good café in the square. Oh and we thought we’d visit the Packaging Museum again. The suspicious amount of street car parking boded ill. And, yes, the museum was closed on Mondays, as was most eveything else. By now we were muffled in our fleece lined coats and heads down in the icy blast. The café was reached and amazingly was sheltered so we actually sat outside with our coffee, surrounded by dazzling displays of petunias in front of the town hall.

 In previous times we’ve had good food here but not today...you guessed!

And the plane trees are due for the big prune next Thursday.

I now realised why there had been an exhibition of Papal Vin in Richerenches. It’s the 700 year annversary of the Enclave des Pâpes, that area within Vaucluse that belonged to the Pope - Richerenches, Grillon, Visan, Valréas.

Flags and banners all over the place.

Moving on...St Pantaléon-les-vignes has a nice Bistrot de Pays but it was obvious from a distance that there was nobody home.
Closed Sunday evening and all Monday. From there the last chance was up the hill to our favourite Rousset-les-Vignes through pretty fields of vines, olives and lavender. Resigned now to the inevitable. And so it was. So we just had another walk and admired the grand and pretty houses and the view.

Returned to base via Nyons where some places were doing business but all were heaving, unsurprisingly! We’d lost the will to eat by this time. Doesn’t matter, the sun is shining, the sky is blue and we had a pain raisin left over from yesterday to be shared! Luxury.

Dance of the Hours

Only 7 when the light trickled in today. Groan...it’s winter. But as I’d been in bed since 9.30 last night (reading my Fred Vargas) it was time to get up. So washing done by 8.30 at which point I battled with flapping sheets and pegs in the teeth of the gale. Then three hours vacuuming and changing beds so that all will be pristine for our departure. I realise that more dust will accumulate over the winter but it won’t  be my dust!

Very bright and sunny and we needed to inspect the circus. Vans are cruising round town exhorting us to come along at 16 hours, only 5 euros...

First we visited Paul and Linda for a chat then headed for the Stade where trailers and tents were set up.  Here is a poster...Looks grim, doesn’t it!

It’s actually pretty warm out of the wind so we braved the vines. Where we got blown to b******! But we passed the cemetery decorated on every tomb with chrysanthemums, tulips, pots of cyclamen. It’s Toussaint on Wednesday. A National Holiday and big business for the chrysanthemum growers.

After all this we deserved a lunchtime snifter so in the balmy sun of the bar terrace, out of the wind, we supped on pastis (monsieur) and thin gruel mascarading as a café crème (madame).

Le dernier marché

And what a windy one! Cold Mistral, everyone muffled up and no chance of sitting outside for coffee. So we said our farewells to Nicole and the café ladies and briefly to our recent English acquaintances from Rasteau with the lovely sheepdog. Masses of people on holiday from other parts - Belgium and the North I suspect. Apparently round here they get two weeks!

The plain was dazzlingly bright and colourful. Flocks of birds dancing in the wind above the leaves. And our aeolien has been painted bright red!














The good news is I managed to get TWO Paris Brests from Mme Moulin. Now we are tidying and sorting prior to departure on Thursday - really do not want to leave.

Carpentras

Via Beaumes coop. This is even more bling than before. Glass chandeliers and dark cavernous hall of wine leading to the sales area. Here all manner if tasteless accessories are displayed, from high heeled peep toe shoe champagne bottle holders to this - a pink pig bag in box dispenser.

Sanity was restored in Carpentras. Looking very fine today and very quiet.

Without the market throng it was possible to see the buildings properly.

Wendy bought some pretty pottery.

We repaired to Jouvaud for hot chocolate and delicious pâtisserie.

We ended up with a trip to Séguret where Adrian spotted this lovely creature.
Still warm.

Drôme

No wind. Temps back to mid 20s. So off to the Drôme and lunch at La Garde Adhémar. First we detoured to the Val des Nymphes and the Eric Linard Gallery. It was closed but we did manage a little peek before Mme L scurried up and politely said she had to lock the gate! Then a look at the chapel and fish pond.

We reserved table at Absinthe, a bit surprised that they didn’t want us on the terrace because of wind - what wind? And then down to the garden in the ramparts overlooking the valley.

It is half term and there were a few families but not too many people and it was pretty quiet among the formal flower beds. That is until midday when a group of dogs in the village joined in with the bell ringing! 

We managed to persuade the restaurant to let us sit outside and were soon joined by loads more people. It was warm and sunny so they must have misread the forecast. Nice meal but rather slow service.

The aftenoon was a cultural experience at Grignan. Well it should have been more so but a lot of it was closed. Like Orange yesterday...we obviously cause mass shutdown wherever we go. This regal rabbit could have been purchased for 65 euros. The shop was open.

The château is being beautifully restored. And it was hot up on the terraces overlooking the surounding town and countryside

We all covet this house! Final stop was the Colophon café and bookshop for mango tea and a look at the books.

Back in Sablet we took advantage of the warm evening for a drink at the bar. Just like summer.

Orange isn’t the only town

A walk round Sablet to introduce Wendy to the village. In the stong wind! We popped into the Maison des Vins to view the latest artwork. Not bad for once.

Then lunch inside in Vacqueyras. Too windy to sit out. But the food was good. Adrian even managed to get a plate of calf’s liver.

The afternoon was a walk round Orange. The Théâtre Antique was covered in scaffolding for its eight year restoration. But the town was all closed for some reason even though it isn’t Monday.

The Arc de Triomphe had been thoroughly cleaned and landscaped. My it does look smart. We finished our jour with a visit to the factory shop of smells and soap on the Sablet industrial estate. And then wafted pongs for hours afterwards. Won’t be revisiting!

Just settling down back home when Mr Fernandes arrived with a load of scaffolding to store in the garage. And I had to write a rather large cheque!

Windy

Well a bit of a change today. Cold north wind keeping the temperatures to 17 degrees. We have Wendy visiting and started the day at Bédoin market. Quite busy but not unpleasant - we got some delicious North African/Middle East pâtisseries and sampled some with coffee in a sheltered bar.

Then over the hill past Roadrunner (looking a touch unkempt) to Crestet and a walk round the abandoned Centre d’Art.

It really is looking decrepit now but there are still artworks visible inside.

Finally to Vaison and a visit to the Cathedral.  Lovely flowers in a shaft of sunlight.

We were going to see a photographic exhibition but it’s Monday, so closed. Grr.

Half Term

The market was much busier with stalls this week. But our young cheese man has not reappeared, which means neither has his grandfather with local walnuts. In fact only one stall has had any local ones this season. Holidays always bring out the bags and toy stalls! The sky was slate grey to the west as we drove across the plain.

mieux boire en face qu’ici!

Anyway, coffee was drunk at the Union, croissants consumed, cheeses and yogs and honey obtained from Nicole, chicken cream and pasta meal from the jolly traiteur, fruits and nuts. Broke, we headed home gia Cairanne where I learn I am half way to having enough localty points to getting a free carton of 6 bottles! Only 300 more to go.

Friday

Cleaned.
Louise came by with Poncho, who now will not pass our door without sitting down and refusing to budge! So we walked down the road together to appease him.
Then off to Roaix for lunch. Friday is fish! But we were the only ones sitting outside...very odd. It was warm, not chance of rain, but a bit cloudy so everyone had gone inside.

Then up to Puyméras for wine from the Coop and a coffee on the terrace of the laid back bar. They do food too - must go one day.
Still very warm- jeans are just too uncomfortable.

Warm winds

Ridiculously warm. Last night it didn’t fall below 19 on the Terrace and this morning the wind is southerly and warm. This afternoon we just went up behind Séguret near Mourchon (he Scottish vineyard) for a change.

All very colourful and productive with vines and olives.

Here’s a nice little pad. Decent sized pool too.

But it was very hot - the sun was burning despite the wind in the trees. Clouds are gathering though and the forecast is for the direction to change to northerly on Monday. And we know what that means...Mistral.

Clouding over

Malaucène market much reduced today but we got stripey old -variety tomatoes. Then had a walk in the woods across from Suzette. Nice and warm but high clouds streaking towards us from the south.

The leaves are at last going really yellow and some of the trees shine like flares in the dark woodlands.

We stopped off in Lafare bistrot du pays for lunch on the way down. It has been recommended but with a caveat that it is ‘vey meaty’. And so it was! Mamouth sized pork chops and chips. Not bad and pleasant setting.

The sky had turned to mattress by the time we made it back along to Sablet so fingers crossed there is no rain...

Mist

Wow! What a sight greeted us from the terrace this morning. Swirling white mist over Séguret and brilliant blue sky above. And the Patrouille zooming through it all.

We set off towards Beaumes for a stroll along the canal with the intention of doing a there and back with coffee at Le Siècle. But no sooner were we over the boundary into Gigondas than we were in full fog! No sign of blue sky or sky of any colour for that matter!

A quick about face and we drove back to the light and Rasteau. The walk was glorious as always but you could see the pall of gloom still hanging over Beaumes even at midday. Odd.














It is hot! We had a sandwich at the bar and the sun is burning. Bu still a young woman appeared, shivering in puffer jacket, boots and shawl!