Foggy Bottom

No, not The Pentagon - the Vendée marshes! We left Rochefort and negotiated both the narrow carpark exit and roads out of town with no effort. Then the miasma rose from the damp earth and envelopped all. This went on pretty much until we got to Marans and made driving a bit nailbiting. 

As it was getting towards 9 o’clock by the time we felt safe to stop we decided on Luçon for breakfast. The café does good coffee, you can sit outside in front of the cathedral and…best of all…the pâtisserie opposite who do The Best Croissants would be open ( they are tardy and do not raise the shutters until 9). So this we did.

Then onwards and upwards to Port du Bec for lunch. Got there at one minute to 12. No moules - must be just out off season - so we had the menu du jour at  €13.50.  OK but not great but we weren’t that hungry and it was nice simply to sit.  

A quick visit to the end of the jetty to watch the oyster boats dashing back in before heading off again.

As we were crossing the Pont de St Nazaire I spotted a vast aircraft coming low from the east and as we got to the other side it came right past us.  

An Airbus Beluga complete with face! It landed in their compound by the river.

The rest of the drive up to Guingamp was relentless and uneventful. Lots of traffic and we got to Ibis at 5.30.  - once again just got the last table in the Crêperie!

But anyway yesterday I forgot to mention two things. First was in the Lussac St Emilion area where we were pottering along small roads among the vineyards. There was a chap actually using a draught horse and plough to weed between the vines. Bet that puts the price up!

And second, well…in the hotel room above my bed was a huge drawing of what looked like a man sitting on the loo! Probably a nod to Rodin but decidedly odd.

Hip hip…Hoopoe

 

Yes, yet another Hoopoe spotted, this time in Puisseguin catching some large insect on the wing!I have seen loads this year… this however is a bold doodle do down on the Gironde.

Warm again and we were off by 7.30 along the Dordogne and some chocolate box picturesque villages. Too good to be true and in fact they were. No boulangeries, no bars…we were in despair. Until we hit Lalinde where normal people were having a proper market and cafés bars, boulangeries sprang up at every turn. We had really good strong coffees at €3 a pop in a bar/resto that favoured local rugby. Barkeep himself looked like a retired scrum half but he was efficient and polite, serving us all at the same time as ordering his kitchen staff to get in foie gras for the holiday weekend and not to forget to wipe down the shelves!

Outside, stalls were selling platters of Choucroute and tins of confit. Oysters of course and the usual clothes and fresh produce. Nice place. But we were en route so couldn’t linger. Along we travelled, past Bergerac and through the Upper vines of Bordeaux.We found ourselves passing a long ago favourite - The Cellier des Côtes de Francs. Now sadly abandoned probably because the vignerons felt they could earn more as individuals.

Through Pomerols - even smarter and expensive looking than ever - round Libourne and onto the slopes of the Gironde Estuary. We detoured into the flat marshes after the nuclear facility where there are birds and ditches and ate our copious sandwiches from Lalinde sitting on concrete benches overlooking the water. 

Tide was out and the water was chocolate brown. A small and somewhat feeble flat bottomed dredger with a revolving roller (think old fashioned Hoover) slowly chugged up and down the channel. We know not what it did!

Lunch over we continued up the estuary and its small ports and villages with long views across to the Médoc, eventually stopping on the beach at St Georges for a cup of tea. Lots of people on the sand but none in the water. It’s actually quite busy everywhere as it’s a public holiday weekend.

A cruise ship was spotted heading for Bordeaux - think it says Silver Whisper.

Ibis Rochefort was located amazingly with no bother! And we opted to pay €5 for parking rather than leave the car by the nearby Maison d’Arrêt which is housed in one of the town’s many handsome historic buildings. A short walk to the river then we got the last table at our favourite crêperie. I had the foresight to phone and book!

About face

 

The house was cleaned and all was packed so we were away at 7.30 - having first  deposited Basil at Nicole’s door. It was a lovely day and the Dentelles were etched against the blue sky as we headed west across the Rhône and into the Gard with its honey coloured stone houses. We really weren’t hungry, which proved to be just as well because in St Victor la Coste where we stopped for coffee, the boulangerie was closed! But the bar and village were great. 

 

Strong coffee and a most interesting monument in front dedicated to those giants of science - Newton and Galileo.

And then through Uzès and on up into the Cévennes via the Corniche. Here we went back a month in terms of vegetation…trees just leafing up and banks and swathes of cowslips the whole way. A quick stop in Florac to collect sandwiches and we were off once more, sort of retracing our outward route. Lunch stop the other side of Décazeville up a farm track where we were serenaded by several nightingales that could hardly have been more than a few feet away. But could we spot them? You guessed it…

And on to Sarlat where we reside at Ibis for the night.

Warm evening so we trekked up into the centre for pizza. Eventually located the recommended La Romane but as we entered were asked if we had cash or cheque because Orange was down all over France and no one had card payment facilities! I scrabbled about and found the emergency cheque in my purse and we pooled together 50 euros in cash so went in. And had wonderful pizzas, pudding, coffee, wine and free limoncello for €44.

sun’s back

 

Bunged the washing on the line to dry and off we went to behind Durban for a bit of a walk in the vines. Lovely poppies and various unnamed blue flowers. Nightingales and woodlarks. All very fine.

Back for an eat up the leftovers lunch on the terrace. Last day tomorrow.

Rain stopped play

 

Bit of a mixed week. After Tuesday’s sunshine came Wednesday’s cloud and rain. We just about got round Malaucène market in the dry but soon retreated to the safety of home. Minouchette came in for sanctuary too. Treated ourselves to lunch inside at Roaix…the second of my steak and chips of the week.

Thursday was a little better so we went to Bédoin for the wine supply and a coffee. Friday perked up sufficiently for us to go to Villedieu - my third steak and chips! Not a very varied diet this week. But we sat in the sun, knowing full well that the weekend forecast was DIRE.

With much trepidation we arose on Saturday for the market. Black clouds in all directions. Nevertheless we went and were there by nine. Many stalls were not - clothes and stuff that are not local. We got what we needed and even managed our coffee outside and were just getting into the car as the first drops fell.

Since which time Sablet has been enveloped in low cloud with heavy downpours. Despite this the nightingales are trilling away in the bushes across the road and can be heard between passing cars and machinery. There are house martins nesting over our door and swifts high up in the clouds.

La Montagnette

 

Quick trip down south of Avignon to the lovely mini mountain ridge called La Montagnette. It is clothed in aromatic pines, pink cistus, scrubby shrubs and most wonderful of all at this time - asphodel. Great stands of them with their pretty spires of whiteish flowers. 

We stopped just short of the modern Abbaye de St Michel de Frigolet (currently being fettled) and walked up a slithery earth and scree path to the top of one of the hilly mounds. 

Views to Avignon and one of the tallest chimneys in France across the river at EDF facility in Aramon.! No longer in use, as the site is now a photo voltaic generator.

Frogs were croaking like demented ducks in a fenced off pond but were not to be spotted!

Then back down to the really delicious little town/village of Boulbon with its towering ruined château, cobbles and a great café - Café du Commerce. Vast terrace outside and traditional bit inside. It was busy and we really didn’t have time to eat although we could have…here in Bouches Rhône they are prepared to serve later. Just a drink then. 

Finally to TGV to collect Anne. Train arrived to the very second. And home via pastis and kir in Vacqueyras.

Easter

 Sunday we went for a walk round the red aeolian across the river and along its vines. They are mostly in leaf now. Then a drink in Rasteau square. Lazy afternoon in the sun on the terrace and apéros with the Kaisers. From time to time I popped next door to play with Minouchette. Swifts have been spotted.

Monday we drove down to the canal where it crosses under the Ouvèze via a siphon. 

This be hillbilly land with unmade tracks and strange collections of heavy road excavating trucks hidden down among the vines. How on earth did they get there and why??

The reward is a delightful short stroll along the canal to the river - dry and rocky at the moment. But there were nightingales tuning up and a rare butterfly - Southern Festoon.

Back to Sablet to sit at the bar and eventually weaken for steak and chips - delicious!

Any old iron

 

Good Friday Up early as Adrian had to eat his bacon before it went off! So all windows flung wide to let out the awful smell. Thankfully we now have warmth again so hot air flooded in from outside. 

We dressed in what passes for smart in this house - ie I wore a skirt. Then awaited our conveyance to Barjac Antiques Market. It arrived on time and I settled in the back with Louise and Poncho, with the men in front as befits their status. It is quite a way across to Barjac into the Gard and its lovely stone houses and rugged hills but we got there about 10.30 and joined the throng searching for parking. Found one - a field opposite the square - and the cheapest at 4 euros. It seemed to be run by Barjac’s answer to Joe and Eddie Grundy! Older bloke waves us in while younger chap (actually a charming young man) gesticulates and shouts as a queue forms. ‘I told him there were two spaces and he sends me fifteen!’ But all good natured and we were allocated prime position on a bluff.

The square was heaving with browsers of all nationalities and hundreds of pitches containing everything from tin advertising plaques to a mini hot air balloon, with the usual zinc watering cans, step ladders, dinner services, paintings, farm implements, furniture, toys, tin baths etc etc. 

Some quite interesting and people were actually parting with cash. We split up and fixed a rendezvous - Louise and I moiched tge stalls commenting on this and that. John took Poncho and sat under the trees (it is a beautiful space when empty!). Adrian went up to the promenade in the upper town.  

At 12.15 we regrouped in search of lunch. Everything was pretty full but we chanced upon an elegant venue on the square where amazingly we got a table inside! Good job actually as it was getting rather too hot to eat in the sun. 

Service a touch slow but food OK - signature meatballs! Then home via the Rhône for a much needed cupoftea. There’s a strong wind got up but still plenty of hot sun.

Holy Week

Here’s a roundup of the past few days. On Tuesday first we went up to a strange village in the Dentelles we always mean to stop at but somehow never do - Laroque Alric. It is stuck into the hillside on a jutting outcrop and is mostly Maisons Secondaires. Even the info panel says so! Good views but worrying array of metal nets strung along the rock face above the houses. 

We then took ourselves to Carpentras where we haven’t ventured since The Pandemic! It was fairly quiet but with a nice low key hubbub of lunchtime café folk.

Our own repast was made up of chocolate, chocolate and chocolate at a table outside Jouvaud Pâtisserie.

Talking of Jouvaud, on our way into town we passed a modern edifice under construction which proclaimed itself to be a Laboratoire de Pâtisserie! Images of men in white coats perfecting the perfect choux pastry or Paris Brest… But I digress.

Carpentras is a crazy mix of elegant chic shops and civic buildings alongside what are quite frankly slums. 

We rather like it. 

The day was rounded off by a visit to Gigondas  View and a cup of tea on the new terrace.

Wednesday we went to Malaucène and bought nothing. It was just for the people watching. Always a fun

experience. Campervan City was filling up with les gens du nord, and their vélos.

Today (Maunday Thursday I believe) we had an excursion! Off up into the hills beyond Sault where in due season the land is carpeted with purple lavender - as yet still shrivelled and grey. They also grow spelt and there were great swathes of immaculately harrowed and rolled ochre soil awaiting the crop. Fantastic views of  Ventoux’s rugged north side as we wended our way along twisty roads higher and higher. 

A brief stop in the almost unpronouncable Rheilanette where we climbed up to the ruined château to survey the surroundings. 

Then over the sinisterly named Col de l’Homme Mort to St Trinit, home of the Cèpe. And where there is a Bistrot du Pays that has never been open on our previous visits. Today, however - Bingo!

We waited until 12 on a bench opposite then made our move. Table in the sun under an umbrella. Menu du Jour 16 euros with the perfect choice..,cream of asparagus soup with spelt, proper thick pork rib with crushed potatoes, panna cotta.  All home made and delicious. The church was open and inside a strange flickering light show was playing behind the altar - the Holy Spirit?

Tomorrow we are going with J and L to Barjac for the  Easter Antiques Fair! And next week we are in cat sitting duties again.

Watching paint dry

 

A few days away from the blog for various reasons. Mostly because we have been deep in the throes of penning detailed objections to yet another of our Cheldon neighbour’s expansion plans. What next? Will he apply to construct a nuclear power plant with one of those new Govt subsidies! 

So what has been occurrin’ Sablet wise?

Saturday was bright but bl***y freezing! Wind coming from the Rhône glacier by the feel of it. We braved Ste Cécile for the market, came home and did not venture out again (except for cat entertainment - see below) until blessed release was given by John and Louise who invited us for pizzas in Gigondas. They have underfloor heating…envy.

Then all change on Sunday - voting day - when the sun came out on full power, no wind, overdressed etc! There was a vide grenier in the square so that passed an hour or so. I was on cat duty all weekend next door so from time to time I popped round and played with Minouchette. In the afternoon we went for a brief walk up by Gravillas Supper on the terrace.

Today we are sitting in the kitchen as Mr Boukersanna paints the garage doors. Weather has come out in sympathy colour-wise. Grey.

At least Sablet isn’t totally right wing…or is it!

We rounded off the excitement of the day by zipping off to Intermarché for paper towels and sunflower oil. Thought we’d stock up in the face of predicted world shortage. Too late! the sunflower shelf was empty and we had to make do with two bottles of colza (rape to you). And finally across the road to Bricomarché for a new no parking sign for the garage. Am bringing the old one back to put on Bullsmead’s gate ..,hee hee.😈

carpe diem

News from the Côte d’Azur at dawn was not promising. Beaches closed, tempest due! However upon stepping out onto our terrace all seemed calm…a few clouds admittedly, but a gash of blue sky over the hills. I risked doing a white wash.After breakfast there was heard the unmistakable roar of la Patrouille overhead. Oh well, there so often is! I had to tend to Minouchette next door as her people had actually gone to Nice in the teeth of the oncoming storm to visit daughter. 

She (Minouchette, not daughter) of course, wasn’t there - probably scoffing at one of her other snack bars around town. So by the time I got back up to the terrace all that remained of our brave boys was a smudge of coloured smoke bruising the sky. 

But they returned - they always do! And this time I was ready.

click on pix for better resolution

The sun was well out now, sheets billowing on the line.Warm enough to remove a layer or two of woollens. Warm enough to sit out at L’As de Coeur! 

Off we set, got there at 12 on the dot. Just as well because soon after, a fleet of Vaucluse vans drew up and disgorged the entire team of highway operatives - or so it seemed! 14 of them anyway. We sat in the sun, making the most of it, for who knows when rain may come and north winds blow! Quite probably tomorrow…