That‘s all, folks !

 Left La Rochelle at 7 in rather grey conditions. Usual drive across the marshes where nothing much was doing and had delicious croissants in Ste Hermine on a corner sporting a vast sculpture of Clémenceau with his ‘men’. The drive was long and not very exciting but we did stop on the Loire at Ancencis for a little stretch of legs. 

There was a modern paddle steamer parked up and a sign saying the Olympic Flame was coming through today but we saw nothing of it.

Joachim du Bellay was born across the water in Liré. He was a poet, mate of Ronsard and champion of the French language.

After Ancenis life got tedious. A major route barrée on the fast road up to Rennes got us lost round Châteaubriant but we eventually got to Corps Nuds, a little village with interesting church and silly name. We’ve been before but Adam hadn’t. 

But while trying to get there we passed through Challain and saw amazing turrets rising above the trees. It’s a château. Looks old but is only mid 19th century. A true confection! Owned by American who hires it out for weddings  (see foreground of photo). Website link here but get out the sick bucket! This is truly grim🤗  

Château Challain

Sandwiches in a driveway at nearly 2pm before the final slog up the N12, hampered by national verge cutting day and coned off lanes, to Roscoff Ibis. 

We arrived at 4.45 so that was A Long Day! It is raining but we have a Sea View - yay! - and supper booked at Surcouf across the way. We sail tomorrow at 9 am so it will be another early start.

Thanks for tuning in…until next time (september most likely)

Looking North

Today it was away just after 7 and already Sablet is a memory. We are in Quercy then Périgord, both so different from Provence. Everything from architecture to landscape and crops. Still vines OF COURSE but now more woods, fruit and nut plantations, maize, livestock. Breakfast stop in Prayssac, sandwiches purchased, and we continue north west.

Last night we failed to eat at the chosen restaurant because it was Mothers’ Day in France and the place was fully booked, so we had to resort to a street brasserie which was OK but pretty pricey. But it gave us the chance to see more of Cahors and we came upon this amazing clock, run on ball bearings, a bit like a pinball machine.

Today we had our sandwiches by the water in the Gironde in Port Maubert just a few kilometres from Snail Roundabout. 

In fact we spent a couple of hours there, walking through the reeds to the water’s edge (almost) then back for a coffee at a delightful seafood restaurant that does its own fish preserving. 

Must eat there one of these trips. Storks flew overhead - we’d seen a group of about a dozen in the fields earlier, and they were all on their nests in the pylons as we neared Rochefort. In fact we did pretty well for big birds today. Lots of kites and a couple of what might have been eagles, one carrying a snake!

Before we fetched up in La Rochelle Kyriad we detoured to Les Minimes port area and walked along to the point in the park above the sea to snap the little replica lighthouse - Le Phare du bout du monde. The original was somewhere off Tierra del Fuego and has also been restored.

And finally our fab corner room on floor 4 with views to the Alstom works and new train sets. Usual pizza pasta etc blow out in Del Arte next door…and so to bed!

And … away

 

Off at 7 in lovely sunny morning having placed petunias outside Nicole’s door -hope she spots them! Then a good drive across the Rhône to St Victor la Coste in the Garrigue country. Has to be one of my favourite little villages. A great monument to weights and measures stands in front of the Mairie in the main square and at one end is the Café de l’Industrie where we often stop. Today at just before 8 the chap had not yet set up all his tables but immediately placed one for us and took the order. It then took him over half an hour to haul out all the other tables and chairs and position them neatly on his outside decking. Must have been expecting a crowd! (Adam informs me it is French Mothers’ Day). 

By and by others turned up, many carrying baked goods…ha! so there IS now a boulangerie. For the last few times there had not been but I’d found an article in the local press that suggested one might open. And there it was in the front room of a house - no signage, but newly fitted out. Good to know for next time.

And off again towards Uzès. Beautiful country of scrubby limestone and woods and then the vision of the elegant Uzès towers in the distance. But not so elegant today! It was obviously ‘Bring out your Tat Day’- every street was draped with clothes, toys, bric a brac of all sorts. 

The route was a good one via Ganges, Le Vigan, Millau, Villefranche etc to Cahors. We had our sandwiches under some fine wind turbines just after Pont de Salars. Delicious poulet mayo obtained from Ste Cécile yesterday…ah! a taste of Provence. 

Then another less salubrious stop for a drink in Limogne en Quercy, a village of mixed reviews. We had a dreadful camping experience there some 17 years ago, never to be forgotten. Then a few OK breakfast stops followed by a truly awful one when Beryl was with us. Last time the café had got better again but today it was a shambles. Looked like it was either about to be sold or just had been. Despite there being a spanking new coffee machine in the corner, apparently it was disconnected and had been retired from service! so we had cold drinks and departed for our hotel. Arrived about 3.40 to be greeted by a blackbird serenading the world from the restaurant roof.

But the main take-away (as they say) from the day was the abundance of wild flowers just everywhere. Swathes of poppies, fields of them even. Meadows full of flowers. Banks of yellow Spanish Broom, red clover, sulphur yellow hawkbit/dandelion like things, all sorts of blue, yellow, white flowers that I cannot name, California Poppies, cornflowers, wild roses, etc, etc. Truly gorgeous.

Rounding off

 

Last two days. Wonderful weather.

Yesterday we went up to Piégon again and did the round up to the abandoned village with its restored bell tower. Then to Villedieu for lunch under the plane trees. A rather raucous affair with everyone coughing and sneezing from the pollen dropping onto the tables! Half way through an unexpected black cloud dropped light rain on us but not enough to drive anyone indoors. By pudding time all was bright sun again.

Today it was a quick dash to Ste C for some garlic and coffees. The streets were gay and busy and we are really sad to be going…But a bonus on the way through the vines was yet another hare and at least six Rollers in their usual place. (Adam’s pic).

And so to Rabais Sud one last time where, horrors, someone was parked in our spot by the pylon. This meant we had to proceed further and by doing so discovered a really nice walk up into the woods where we met the waymarked track from Cairanne to Buisson. One for another time. However we did see two vultures! One quartering the vines before soaring off back towards the Baronnies, and one perched on the top of the pylon.

Must now distribute my pots of flowers to friends and neighbours!

Rasteau, Roaix and Rooftiles

 

A little light rain overnight has freshened things up a bit but it soon brightened and we pottered off to Rasteau for a walk up the lanes one last time. Woodlarks deafening as usual. 

And a final drink in the bar before heading to Roaix and lunch under the mulberries. Fond farewells all round.

This afternoon Fernandes et fils turned up and re glued a few ridge tiles. They took a set of keys and will do the full repair at a time of their choosing in the summer.

And an email from Nationwide informs me they are ‘excited’ to be giving me £100 as my share of their annual profits.

Ventoux…at last

We haven't been up top for two years and even then the last time we actually walked! So today being sunny and Malaucène market, we decided to summit. Lovely sunshine as we sat at the café with coffees and viennoiseries. Hot even. Market buzzing with an influx of ‘tourist’ stalls. All we wanted was some fruit.

As we drove higher, passing the string of cyclists, the clouds increased and by the time we got to the top we were enveloped in swirling vapour. Quite chilly - 6 degrees - yet somehow there were folk in skimpy attire. Very pretty, but does she not feel the cold!

The men grabbed our bench and sat resolutely,  putting off any possible usurpers.

The return took us via Montbrun, once more in sunshine, and a simple lunch of omelette and salad, and home made chestnut or lemon mousse in a street bar overlooking the town. Somewhat unsurprisingly their card machine was en panne so we had to scrabble about between us for the readies! By now Ventoux was clear as a bell- of course!

Down the Rhône

 

Adam arrived on Sunday and as it was yet another holiday yesterday we just stayed put in the village apart from a foray to get petrol. But today it was another matter. Hot, sunny, time for a jolly. Destination Beaucaire. It only takes just over an hour via the west bank of the river,  avoiding Avignon.

Just by the Vallabrègues barrage we spotted this warning sign. Is it for river craft or the Canadair themselves? Unsure. But we did see a couple of the yellow craft rumbling overhead during our stroll.

Beaucaire is on the Rhône and the canal so has lots of pleasure craft moored up. Picturesque but slightly scruffy with many historic buildings. 

And of course a Mythic Beast - Le Drac - abducter of washerwomen.

And a castle (closed Tuesdays) with views across the rooftops.

We went there many years ago to watch birds of prey being flown from the battlements. Great fluffy vultures tucked under their keepers’ arms. Today it was just wild black kites circling on the look out for urban carrion!

As 12 struck we were on our way down to the port in search of lunch. And by gum! we actually found a really nice place. Le Restaurant Nord au Sud with a 20 euro menu. Smiling and rapid service, imaginative and tasty dishes and a loo with infinity reflections.

Final stop was across the river in Tarascon. Another château, another monster. This time the Tarasque!

Whit Walks à la française

 

As you know we are wont to potter up to Rasteau of a Sunday for a quiet walk followed by a drink in the usually sleepy square under the BVM- blue sky. Today being our final Sunday this stay, we were minded to do the same. Lovely day, not hot but warm, perfect. Until that is we approached the suburbs of Rasteau. There were groups of people, suspiciously many, with walking shoes, knapsacks and strange headgear. All heading towards the village. Cars littered the pavements, one blocked the entrance road…What could it be? Vide grenier didn’t seem likely (no need for hiking boots there) so maybe it was some sort of mass trespass! 

Whatever, we weren’t about to find out. We wanted peace not crowds. So Plan B - up to Roaix where we left the car on the top road and did a small circular walk up to Rabais Sud, down the track past the ruined farm and back. 

All to ourselves with the nightingales and woodlarks. And olive trees with clusters of lime green buds that will turn into olives.

As Rasteau was out drink-wise we continued to Villedieu and even though it was barely midday the whole square was full, no table spare. Just about to turn tail when we spotted the stools and barrel next to the entrance and we plonked ourselves down! Just right, good view from a different perspective as late comers came and were turned away. What with France being a secular country you don’t really expect Whitsuntide to be a holiday…but it is!

So back to the walks. Whit Walks are a tradition in North West England, like what where I come from -  processions and brass bands etc. And research reveals that the Rasteau event is a wine growers equivalent. This is the awful sight that would have met us had we continued! Lucky Escape.

Hare and Rollers

A sunny morning but there was ominousness to the North - far enough away not to trouble the market. Which today was bursting with colourful stalls, more people and a definite feeling of summer on the way. Adrian spotted this display of iris on the flower stall, even pondering if we could take one home with us!

Returning back across Le Plan we found last week’s Roller on the same wire and then two more along the road, so obviously that is their lair. Followed soon after by a lolloppy hare languidly crossing the road into the vines. 

The black clouds did eventually drop on us, but not much, and briefly thundered in a half hearted way. Mostly it’s brilliant sunshine. 

Mr Boukersanna has been to quote for repainting our window frames- a task neither of us could bear to even contemplate.

now where were we?

 

Ah yes, Rain. Well it continued on and off, mostly on, for a couple of days. We braved it on Wednesday in Malaucène for our shopping. Followed by another detour up above Suzette. Then yesterday we received An Important Visitor,  not from Porlock but Montpellier. A man of great academic eminence, former school chum of Adrian and not seen these 60+ years! Bit of a scary one this. But he, John,  turned up in a battered old Peugeot clutching not only a bottle of Pic St Loup but also a huge bunch of peonies! The man was welcomed in effusively. And all was jolly, convivial and interesting. Lunch indoors at Roaix - we had hoped for al fresco in Villedieu but really not a chance. We sent him home in a thunderstorm and were relieved to hear that he’d made it back safely.

Today of course, sod’s law, we are bathed in sunshine. Nice enough for a walk in the vines above Durban safe in the knowledge that no hunters are out at this time of the year. It was very fine, not hot, good views, and only one or two other people spotted as we were getting back to the car.

We popped into Beaumes de V Café du Siècle for a plat. Rather good menu and interesting choices. The Sea Bass parmentier was tasty, as was my poached pear in Durban muscat. A change from the ubiquitous mousse au chocolat etc. There is now a tree shaped crater where once the plane tree stood (the one that was blown down the other week) Totally rotten.

Ce soir it’s more academe and social life! Our Canadian law professor neighbour is here with daughter and has invited us for drinks. We might be back for Giro…they have a pink train running alongside at appropriate places with the trophy on board!

bird on a wire

No thunder but definitely rain. Not vast quantities but enough to dampen any desire to venture out. We replanned bits of our homeward journey, I cleaned the bathroom, we gazed at the  mist… Then at midday, enough was enough! We had to make a break for it…

Hot chocolate in Ste Cécile was proposed.Crossing the soggy Plan de Dieu we met a buzzard, some kestrels, bee-eaters and anon little things perched on the phone lines. In Ste Cécile the plane trees were busy with very loud whistling starlings but the coffee/hot choc emporium was closed for lunch - honest! So instead we went to the café opposite the Bar l’Union and had one there. Quite pleasant and a change of scene.

Return was via Cairanne Coop - now Award Winning! Bottles of Plan de Dieu were obtained. Coming back across Le Plan, yet more bird spotting. This time a large shape on the wire turned out to be a Roller - jackdaw size, kingfisher coloured. That makes three or four we’ve seen this year.

More rain to come. Still warm though.

it’s grim up north

Just seen the weather report for Normandy and Paris. Eek. Rivers of mud, plane struck by lightning over Eiffel Tower, streets waist high in water. Down here our grey skies cleared almost immediately and we are back to sunshine. Won’t last so they say. We have a visitor coming from Montpellier on Thursday so that will be the kiss of death! We had planned lunch out in Villedieu square but I suspect it will be indoors in Roaix.

We did a bank job this morning to extract the final wodge of euros for this trip’s expenses. Then to Brandos for a replacement bee tumbler for Bullsmead. And a new brush and dustpan from Intermarché for here. Gosh how riveting! And a BIB from Puyméras. Which left us at a loose end because their café is closed on Mondays. So it transpired is the Boulangerie in Faucon where we moved on to. Never mind, this is a favourite village and we haven’t been for a while, so we were happy to explore and reacquaint ourselves with its pretty houses and floral displays. Iris still going strong, scented roses, lime trees about to blossom, views to die for. Ah!if only… I did find a house needing doing up for €135,000 and mused how much might be required to do the work. Dream on.

But we needed bread. A circuitous route via Entrechaux  provided bread, sandwiches and noisettes at the roadside bistrot. Somewhat waiting room-like as we all faced outwards in a row. Café society eh!

And opposite in the middle of the road is an obelisk commemorating, well not sure, but possibly the Provençale language. Or wine. Maybe both.

Lunch of sandwiches on the terrace and after that we just lazed until supper.