Season of mists

Too good to be true! Another lovely autumn morning. Off to Malaucène to stock up for the weekend. It’s a public holiday on Friday -  1 November. Folk are gathering round the chrysanthemum sellers, visiting relatives. Halloween looms tomorrow with tinies being lead by their maters to demand sweets from total strangers. Once we were  fully provisioned we went up towards Suzette again and left the car on a hillside overlooking the village and Le Barroux.

Only, LB was shrouded in a rising cloud of mist, the castle briefly appearing in grim silhouette before being submerged.

The views were, as ever, superb. We just walked up the road on extremely easy gradients to the track below St Amant. And there we found the ideal house.

A lovely neatly planted garden, south facing, back to the north and tucked into the hill. Aah. I mean, a tradescantia flowering outside at the end of October.

On the way back down the nunnery at Le B was rising out of the mist. The Sisters obviously have the builders in. What a huge crane.

Then home to deposit the goodies and off to Roaix for lunch. The mulberrys had been chopped yesterday so we were in the full glare of the sun. But so delightful.

Tales of the riverbank

Another quiet warm still day. We took Gérard to Rue Allemagne Orange Sud to be reunited, finally, with the Quattro. The part had arrived and been installed and he left with the mangled remains of the broken spring in his boot to present to his German mechanic. We deposited him in the next door Lidl’s and managed to resist his siren calls to get us across the threshold. Then northwards on the N7 through Orange to the concrete garlic outside Piolenc.

At which point we veered off across the Autoroute and down into the secret lands of market gardening beside the Rhône. It all looked a little strange as we edged our way down the rutted track to the river. A sudden newly tarmaced section with kerbs and Route Barrée signs. We concluded it must be a new cycle track.

But we ploughed on to our familiar parking spot by the TGV line opposite St Etienne des Sorts. No one else around. Totally peaceful, almost hot! Just a gentle northerly keeping us cool. But no barges today.

We did, however, have a cormorant who posed most prettily for quite a while drying his wings.

He didn’t seem fazed by our presence, unlike the heron who took fright as we got within sight.

The peace was only broken from time to time by the roaring rushing noise of a TGV - nearly all heading south. We could glimpse them through the trees. And at 12 by the church bell of St Etienne clanging its 24 peel followed by a frantic chiming call to prayer.

We got almost to the bridge then headed back to the car.

Before leaving we went up to the rail track for old times’ sake and almost gave up waiting for a train to pass. Around lunchtime they have a flurry of them and then it peters out a bit.

But fortune favours the brave and here came an InOui heading South. Back to Mornas hoping for a drink. The tarmac continued for a way on hitherto dirt roads. Money is being spent on something! Mornas proved a futile hope. The Bar du Coin was busy, busy serving meals so we didn’t wait. Food looked good though.

Mild Monday

A still day, veiled sun, very calm and autumnal. We had to get money from Vaison so had a stroll round afterwards. Starlings were sitting in the bare, ghostly fingered plane trees practising their impressions.

After which we headed for Buis but on the way decided to take a look at the Toulourenc valley to see how the autumn colours are progressing. As it happens they aren’t really. Maybe it’s a bit early but they are certainly not as vivid as previous years.

One or two patches but still a long way to go. We walked down to the river between the vine rows and ventured a little way along the bank. There are big notices warning you to be wary of changes in water level and water colour. This is a potentially lethal place if there’s heavy rain or snow melt.

Today it was tame, eau de Nil colour, water like milky clay.

Midday! A sudden flurry of cars zooming home for lunch, so we did likewise, only to Buis not Sablet. The usual place for a  €14.70 formule pizza/pud du jour. Sitting outside  - what a bonus.

Then a look at our dear Ouvèze from the bridge next door. Quite full and lively up here and as we were gazing, a kingfisher flew onto the rocks below. More pics of him on the autumn 19 Google album. Pity he was a bit far down - this is full x30 zoom. He flitted about from rock to branch then off downstream.

But I’ve never met a nice South African🎼

It’s a Spitting Image song! And I have met a few. Just channelling my inner Welsh.
During the first half I took myself off down the road and into the vines behind the new lotissement - well not that new now. It was sunny and still, birds trilling, but I hit dead end behind the red farm that boasts the effigy of lady circus artiste jumping a rabbit (I will try to find a photo). However, the view back to Sablet was nice.

Retraced my steps a bit and cut through the houses. Most of them are well established now with walls and gardens. Thank goodness, because my passage set off the dogs. One barked, they all barked, some leapt to record breaking heights to show themselves above the parapets. The fiercest sounded from behind the fence of the Registered Childminder!

Before I ran this gauntlet I did have a quiet moment on the wilded grassy area where I spotted these inkcaps.

Extra time

Grr. Clocks go back.

Last night was very good in Maison Bleue but Deb says she has heard from a cookery school pal in Vaison that it might be for sale... oh woe. Anyway the square was lovely with its twinkly lights and food delicious.












Today we were off and away to market at 8.20 so as to get home for the Rugby. Much provisioning obtained for the week ahead. Much shouting from the television room too! I think we won🤗

After the excitement had died down we went for a long walk in the Gigondas and St André vines. Such a lovely day again. And hot. These are Vacqueyras bottles but in a Gigondas domaine. They must have vines across the boundary!

But here and there were some big puddles on the tracks after last week’s downpours. In one we found damsel flies courting and little green frogs.

After an hour and a half we got back to the tennis courts where there is a welcome bench. We sat for quite a while in the warm sun listening to the serins and black redstarts. Saying bonjour to a keen cyclist who zoomed by and then back again. Then home to the terrace for tea and Brioche St Gilles, aka Fougasse Aigues Mortes. Basically, slabs of brioche drenched in butter and sprinkled with sugar.

Back to school

In the village of Suzette (where there is no crêperie), there is a small Primary school.

The most charming school with a view to die for overlooking the Dentelles; hand written signs and notices round the playground indicating the direction and distance to Everest, Fuji, Loch Ness; a shingle advertising bird box rentals; little raised vegetable plots; unexplained aircraft.

They like to play with words and ideas.

They are also part of the no pesticide movement Nous voulons les coquelicots (we want poppies). When I first saw this mentioned, I thought France had adopted the Remembrance Day poppy instead of their cornflower for some reason.

But now all is understood. They’ve even organised a patrol to gently remove any plant eating bugs and rehome them well away from their cabbages!

So anyway, after depositing our unwanted books in the phone box book cabin we drove over the hill for a walk under the Dentelles. Down a track to Pic de l’Aigle, where we were rewarded by...yes! An eagle. Oh drat, says the bird - Tourists! Better wheel about for them.

It was a lovely walk, not far and not hard, but in beautiful warm sun and cloudless blue sky. You could see for miles.

Back to Suzette and over to Le Barroux in hope of a refreshment. No go. Despite the village looking reasonably inhabited, it being half term, all outlets were closed. Nothing for it but to head to Malaucène and our usual bar for a hot chocolate and beer. We were almost too hot in the sun! No lunch as we are taking America to Villedieu ce soir!

Storms over

Well tee hee, weather wise! Halloween looms of course. We went to Bazarland this morning in desperate search of short curtains for the small top windows. We knew it would be a waste of time but one has to explore every avenue. Why is it that none of the big stores sells anything shorter than 240cm? Some even 300! I’ve seen things online but that’s always a risk - naff fabric, unexpected pattern not seen on photo, that sort of thing. Alinéa have some OK ones but far too long. Sigh...I expect we’ll have to go there and chop half of it off and get someone to hem the remains.

Anyway, the whole of Vaison seems to be in Horror Mode. This is Intermarché’s offering.

But life across La Manche makes its presence felt too. Lest we forget.

Stuck indoors

Not feeling 100%. We went to Americans for soup and sweet potato pie on Monday night which was very convivial. So not their fault! But both, or rather neither of us slept well. Yesterday was rainy again and we did nothing until 5 pm when Gérard and Jen hauled us out for a walk in the window of opportunity between downpours. All a bit gloomy...not helped by the empty house opposite, Mme Vrastor’s place. Her great granddaughter and boyfriend were living there with their beautiful brindled husky who used to gaze at us through the glass door and wag at me from the garden as I took down the recycling. But we’d noticed them moving out furniture and yesterday they were off - to Geneva! 😥

Adrian has just come up saying there’s a warm wind and the clouds are clearing. But I have seen the Météo! Thunder is a’coming. Two starlings are perched on a chimney pretending to be bee eaters - very convincing.  (look carefully...arrow points to starlings!)

So I will now plough on with Wolf Hall. Desperate times! On a roll now with big books, having demolished Love is Blind and Sweet Caress within a week. William B does rather overegg the pudding with detail and the books go on just that bit too long! Forrest Gump springs to mind - our hero/heroine has to be in the thick of every world event.

Rainy Season

It was a dark and stormy night...

The wind veered to the South West and halfway through Antiques Roadshow it started - lightning, thunder, black clouds and torrential rain. Still raining as we got up this morning but undeterred we set off to Bédoin market. A somewhat reduced affair it has to be said but still lively. Croissants obtained and seats under the leaky canopy of the bar secured, we sat and observed.

Lots of jolly rainbow umbrellas, stallholders standing stoically by their goods.

We walked up to the top past olives, dried cod, Italian knitwear, cheeses, Iranian killims, lavender and a sock seller, among other goodies.

Then back down around the fruit and veg acquiring figs from my man in photo above, clementines and fresh walnuts de Grenoble from the jolly North Africans,

and finally two plats cuisinés from our lovely African girl who used to go to Malaucène. Coconut chicken and Couscous that I’ve divided up to make three meals.








Popped into the Ventoux wine coop for a BIB of red and a bidon of AOC Ventoux rouge. Only 1.80 a litre. Horrified to see on one of their bottles of Altitude 500 that it was 15.5%. Undrinkable, surely!

Good drying weather

Vacqueyras evening

My goodness days have passed and no posts! What excuses? Well the weather was a bit iffy on Thursday so we had a day in and I finished Love is Blind... odd book - too much information And a few strolls up round the vines for exercise. Then we had NI and Paul for the evening, which was very nice. Linda not well.












Friday we sort of hung around expecting to be summoned to take G and J to Orange to get their sick Audi. By 5 we realised this wouldn’t happen so another hour round the vines. Just as we got home Gérard appeared with news. Orange VW had failed to locate a part and were at a loss - it’s an old Quattro whose parts are no longer made! G however is not a man to be beaten. He emailed his garage in Freiburg and man replied - this at 5.45 on a Friday! Not only replied but informing G he had ordered the part from somewhere in Germany and would have it sent to VW Orange on Monday! Vorsprung durch Technik as they say.

And for the past few days we have had the weirdest weather. Really strong winds from the South all the time and temperature not dropping much below 20 even at night. 22 in the day. Scudding low clouds interspersed with sun and vivid blue sky. We didn’t go to market this Saturday because it’s Rugby! Same for the next two weekends but I might break out alone.

Late to bed on Saturdays because it’s the latest series of Engrenages (Spiral). I’d say a downward spiral for all concerned. Is this deliberate? Roban being forced to retire, Laure cracking up, Joséphine banged up in a drug den of a women’s prison, Herville murdered! Hélas. How unlike the home life of our own dear judicial system! But I see they are actually filming a series 8. Yeah!

Direction...Rhône

Via the Étang at Châteauneuf and the Meyne river. Bright and clear, warm and still. This might be one of the last such days if Météo is to be believed. At the étang we were astonished to see absolutely no water in the lake. Never seen it so dry and obviously vegetation had been cut.

The reeds however were glorious as always. The only birds were the invisible warblers and some magpies. We just had a walk round then moved on.

This time our destination was the Meyne - a small river that runs through Orange and alongside the Rhône and then goes off under Châteauneuf. It’s a nature reserve and we often see herons perched in the overhanging branches. This time we thought it would be interesting to walk along a part of it near Châteauneuf rather than the bit by the Rhône. A road was identified going down from the town through vines ending up at a group of old farm buildings by the river. One advertised Vente d’Oeuf (just the one?), the other was a gîte rural cum Chambre d'hôtes and possibly a brocante. The path turned out to be the old tow path and the chambre d’hôtes was the former staging post for bargees.

The river bank is now pretty overgrown with trees and we could only glimpse the water to begin with. But it did open up to reveal limestone cliffs and part of the cobbled tow path with the limpid water below.

At the far end there’s a lime kiln and this revealed the reason for the tow path. Calcified lime was a major commodity and source of wealth in past centuries. It was transported from here to the Rhône and beyond. In fact Châteauneuf only became ‘du Pape’ in 1893. Before that it was Châteauneuf- Calcernier (from the word for lime). However there is no way across to the Rhône for a long way once you get to Hers. It’s on the other bank! So we retraced our steps and drove there.

To be rewarded by a barge. I think owned by Odin Marine of Rotterdam, heavily laden with cargo anonymous.

No visible name, just number.

Very warm it was now and we decided a drink was in order. Alas the Café de France in Caderousse was fermé and we couldn’t think of anywhere close by so headed through Orange to Ste Cécile to try the trendy newish Coffee House/ Epicérie Fine. This is always heaving on market day but today was quiet.

We sat outside under the plane trees and had the most delicious real proper thick hot chocolates. Bit pricey at 4 euros but well...it was lunch!

Then off to U Express to give Skoda a go in the car wash!