Gin Lane

We were in a cloud this morning but by lunchtime it had lifted and hot sun burst through. How to pass the balmy après-midi? Adrian needed replacement Gin as the cheap stuff from Intermarché is not to his taste. I recalled I’d heard that Aldi’s had won awards, Lidl’s too. But surely that was A Step Too Far?  Well desperate times call for desperate measures. We set out to Vaison, first parking in Aldi’s vast and empty carpark. Inside the echoing pristine aisles there was a wines and spirits shelf. No gin. Not a single bottle. No wonder the carpark is always empty.

Out and back to Lidl. More trade here and yes! Gin. Two sorts - one at €9.99 showing picture of juniper berries (good sign). Another at €10 showing picture of cucumber. hmm. But it did say it was made from their classic London Dry Gin. Adrian chose it. It is of no moment to me as I do not consume said liquid.

Too nice to go home just yet so we wended our way up to Villedieu for coffee and pastis - you can work out who had what! It was very warm and sunny but we noticed rather ominous grey clouds gathering and I had seen a laser display weather forecast board in Vaison with pictures of lightning. But not yet. After Villedieu we popped up to the hills over Roaix and surveyed the bone dry land. They could do with some rain.

There are banks of red poppies all along the roads…but none here!

Nicola arrives tomorrow. Do hope we are not being thundered at.

House cleaning…don’t ask!

Henry was exhumed. Mop deployed. Laundry on line. We are ready for next guest🤗

Adrian made bacon eggs mushroom tomato for lunch.

Lovely sunny day. We sat and read on the terrace with cashews and drinks. Awful cheap gin says Adrian. Pretty indifferent Corsican white wine says I. But better than nothing.

Café society

Not a great deal to report but I know how the world hangs on my every word…

Malaucène market this morning where we spent vast sums on meat products at the butcher’s stall. Adrian has no self control when faced with saucissettes, salamis, bouchées à la reine, poitrine fumée etc. Then more modest amounts at the veg stall - free onions this time from the cheery North African owner. Bargain coffees at the café - a mere €5.40 for two. Most places are 3€ each these days.

It was such a nice day that we invited Kaisers to join us for lunch in Roaix. I think I was the only one who picked the right main course - bavette with green pepper sauce. Gérard also chose this but sans sauce as he is allergic to all pepper. But when it came he said it was too chewy and immediately made Jen swap her joue de porc in red wine and mushroom sauce! He is supposed to be allergic to mushrooms too but showed no ill effects. Jen meanwhile dutifully chomped through the bavette without its sauce! Anyway we all enjoyed just being there under the mulberry trees and it was Elsa’s birthday too.

Back home Adrian and I supped tea on the terrace to the roar of La Patrouille and were treated to a full colour display right over the former pigeon coop opposite. Sorry, no pix as I was finishing the Kate Atkinson and so not primed with camera.

Tuesday - part 2

So, having corrected my appalling EuroBlunder first thing, what next? A knock at the door announces Mr Urban the central heating plumber, come to inspect the leaky radiators. He unblocks the thermostat in the one that never heats up by the time honoured means of a hammer blow. But repairs cannot be done until autumn. He is of course overflowing (🤗) with work. However he patiently explains and shows us how we can minimise drips when we leave by letting water out of the system and lowering the water pressure. It is safe to use the heating (phew). We are assured the house will not flood in our absence.

Meanwhile, above our heads there is the unmistakable roar of the jets. Patrouille definitely at a loose end today! No Versailles, everyone on strike. All eight of them are out. Sky is deep blue, no wind, glorious sunshine. We head to Super U in Beaumes for top up supplies then stroll to the Café du Siècle for a strong coffee and rather stodgy viennoiseries. Plus a barquette de fraises, now only €4.50…price drop of 50c since Saturday.

Flowers are falling over themselves to come out. Wisteria, quince, apricot, blackthorn, iris, violets, roses…even the vines suddenly have leaves.

Too nice to come straight back so we veered off in Vacqueyras past the Hôtel/Restaurant de Montmirail and into the slopes below the Dentelles at the back of the Chapelle de St Hilaire. 

Here it was grand views and Herbes de Provence. Possible future walks.

But what on earth are these? Under an upturned roof tile by the rusty trailer. Desiccated cocoons of something.

Shot down in flames

My Eurovision Correspondent writes…

“Nel blu dipinto di blu… 

Volare, colloquially, was most certainly not the first Eurovision winner! Goodness me, have I taught you nothing over the years?!

It didn’t win at all, but came third in the third contest, in 1958. The first winner was Switzerland’s Lys Assia, with Refrain.

Retraction or correction in order…”

So, cowed and ashamed I can do nothing but print his castigation, and apologise for the Fake Noos

Blown away

Well the promised deluge failed to materialise and yesterday afternoon we decided to enjoy the late sun, so went for a drive up past the chocolaterie and kennels to enjoy the views. There were dear little hunting puppies in the kennels - aaah. I was allowed a head start back to run and walk down the hill - gravity takes the strain!

Then today - a fierce cold wind, scudding white cottonwool ball clouds, sunshine and blue sky. The Patrouille are at a loose end now the Royal Tour has been cancelled. Well they must be because surely nothing else would have tempted them out in these gales! They tried a bit of tricolore smoke but it just went all over the place. Peer diligently into this image and you will see their neat arrow formation above the middle tree! You need to tap on pic and zoom a bit.

Time for Anne to move on to Nice - a day early to avoid tomorrow's strike. We returned her to Monteux where she boarded the Zou! shuttle to Avignon TGV. France Télévisions are also on regular strike against a proposed cancelling of the licence fee so Musique is just running tapes of classical tunes. We British are so passive!

#BeMoreFrench

But last night as I was cooking they had a whole programme devoted to Volare - first Eurovision winner. All its many and varied renditions over the decades. I was singing along much to the horror of Adrian and Anne🤗

The Lost Hour

Yesterday was Saturday so Ste Cécile market. It was lovely and sunny. We sat and had two rounds of coffee in the Bar de l’Union, staggered back to the car with provisions then decided to add excitement to the day by going through the car wash! Life in the Fast Lane, eh!

The wild times continued as we detoured via Rasteau for drinks in the square in the sun. We noticed an arch of balloons on the other side and people gravitating that way with drinks and cake boxes. What could it be? Perhaps the Twinning, or a celebration of summertime? Neither. It was celebrating the relocation of the village beauty parlour to a new premises - girls in T-shirts bearing the legend Mon Instant Beauté, and a crowd of wellwishers.

Back to our terrace for prawns and mayonnaise. By now a few clouds were gathering to the north and west. Dire weather had been forecast for Sunday but it didn’t seem imminent.

Anyway we went to bed as late as we could to mitigate against the advancing hour. Today is grey and the promised rain is sporadically dripping between the sunny spells.

The Hut on Hen’s Legs

 Not even a hut! Where is the cockerel? The glorious bird stood proudly at the Great Gate of Sablet (aka Restaurant Magali) but when we passed by on Wednesday there was nothing left but drumsticks.

Later on Wednesday we were away to Monteux station to collect Anne. Great improvement only having to go there rather than all the way to Avignon. Future visitors will be encouraged to do the same. Shuttle from TGV via Avignon Centre…

We have petrol but are being a little cautious in view of civil unrest and blockades. BFMTV had a backdrop to their piece on the forthcoming Royal Visit bearing the legend Keep Calm and Visit France.

Weather is forecast to be awful on Sunday. Then back to frosts on Monday. We have seriously leaking radiators…oh dear

We lunched in Villedieu again - bit chilly to start but then it warmed up. And home via Crestet Poterie just for a look. This season’s oddities are heads with open craniums like a cracked boiled egg. We can only assume you plant something in them!

And beady eyed blue snails.

The whole lot protected from harm by Our Lady of the Lambrettas!

I see M. Le Président has realised that it is not a good look to have a King to dine in Versailles while the populace foments revolution at his gate.

let them eat chocs

 And drink champagne! 

It’s a different world in Lotus Eating Land. After our impromptu entrecôte frites lunch we were taking tea on the terrace when the bell rings stridently and insistently. It is Nicole across the road. Can we come for a snifter? Of course we can. After some hesitation about settling outside, we sit in their huge hangar of a kitchen cum salon stuffed with objets d’art of a quirky nature. Husband Pascal disappears under the floor to the cave and emerges with a bottle of champagne, some miniature champagne flutes and a huge box of Jouvaud chocolates. Jouvaud is the chocolate emporium in Carpentras that we frequent from time to time. Expensive, top quality everything. We sup and scoff - conversation somewhat difficult. Poor Adrian is dragged on a tour of the vast house and returns shell shocked by the size of it.

This morning I get these lovely pics Nicole took of Sablet in snow in January.

Sunny day so we went to get some Ventoux wine, stopping for a short walk round St Pierre de Vassols where we once briefly contemplated a house. Then into the Vignerons du Mont Ventoux in the nick of time before 12 noon closing. I got a free bottle opening device as a reward for signing up for an account - sometimes it’s worth doing!

Then although we didn’t want to go to the market the temptation of sitting in the sun with a coffee was too great. There’s an Espresso Bar (run by a Dutch or Belgian chap I realise as he was talking Flemish to a woman) where excellent coffees are dispensed and you can sit and sip and enjoy the passing world. Also the market is not yet thronging with tourists!

Mothers Day

 Apparently. Well in UK, not here. The dear boy sent me a greeting that’s how I know.

We had a little precipitation overnight, not enough to raise the spirits of growers but it’s a start. That decided us against the Rasteau walk because we just know our shoes would be caked and clogged with clay. So instead it was a little tootle round Buisson and on to Villedieu for a drink. Joy of joys the bar was actually serving food. No hesitation - it was entrecôte frites x 2 in the sun.

After which we returned to our own country Another Way…via Mirabel aux Baronnies, still undergoing major aménagement round the town hall, but at least passable.The Mairie is now camping out in a former bar.

17.5 on the terrace and sunny. Yet oddly there are raindrops falling on my head.

A lovely day

 

There was this huge nest outside the hotel. No sign of occupant. Anyway, the day started crisp and bright and we were more than a little surprised to find a film of frost on the car first thing! Soon disappeared and we were off over the hills into the Causses. Breakfast stop in Le Caylar in Roquefort country. Delicious hot croissants - the last two in the shop - and OK coffee next door. The village boasts a giant carved plane tree much lacquered and rather New Ageish. Adrian probably has a photo!

And then along narrow twisty roads across a scrubby plateau towards the celebrated Cirque de Navacelles,  via Vissec, a village we are fond of and have stayed in. 

The road continued up to the Cirque, one of France’s major geological features, and we peered down into its abyss towards the little village below. The first time we went there was a good 35 years ago when we swam in the river, heard nightingales, watched swallowtail butterflies emerging from chrysalises. The second was in 2010 when it poured with rain and we tramped about in soggy garb. 

Always amazing to be there whatever the weather. But best at this time of year when tourists are few.

Gawping over, we continued our journey in warm sunshine via Ganges and Nîmes and Roquemaure. Home at 2 pm, all well and the house wasn’t even very cold. We unpacked and went for a cup of tea at the bar, bought some bread and basics, had a chat with Mr Fernandes and Kevin, then popped round to see if Dorte and Søren were in. Yippee! They were and we were welcomed in for a glass of rosé in the garden.

Killing time in the Gorges

Last night we had another excellent meal Chez Fred (not this place) just by the cathedral. I am not one to list my dishes normally but this does bear getting a mention…Tagliatelle in coconut milk and lime juice with seared Erquy scallops (new season), mussels, prawns and baby broad beans, slices of pickled red onion and a few small tomatoes. Adrian had the whole veal kidney with fondu green cabbage and crushed garlic potatoes. Then riz au lait for me and three giant profiteroles in hot chocolate sauce for him. Apparently the rice pud was au volonté and I could have had seconds. Well actually no I really couldn’t - it was a generous bowlful!

Blackbird sang all night (or so it seemed) but he didn’t disturb us. Dear thing, he must be exhausted.

We were away by 7.30, which proved to be far too early as we were in Millau just after 1. Bad planning. But we’d had an easy drive through Dordogne and Lot, stopping in Le Bugue for coffee and a single croissant at the jolly Bar de l’Union, then nowhere else except Decazeville to snap the War Memorial. 

It’s an unusual one that Adam discovered last year, focussing on the local mining industry.

No food passed our lips - not hungry after last night - and all that delayed us were roadworks and an unexplained diversion between Figeac and Decazeville. The main road was barred by police on two roundabouts. No signs. But it meant we had a lovely drive on little roads across the hills following of all things a WU reg camper van with bikes on the back. That was only the second UK reg vehicle we’ve seen.

So there we were in sight of the Viaduc far too early to be let into our room. I suggested a detour up the Gorges just to kill an hour or so. As last year everything was closed but at least this time it was sunny. After a while we turned back across the hills towards Millau rather than risk being stuck inexorably going on to Florac. 

Steep and narrow twisty roads with sheer drops took us to the Chaos de Montpellier le Vieux, a definite tourist trap these days, but fortunately closed so we were alone. By now we reckoned we could decently present ourselves at Campanile and so that is where we are, sipping fruit teas and waiting for supper.

The bar flies of Loches

Away from Ibis Budget Amboise at 7.45  and landed in Ibis Périgueux at 3. Our room is right under the cathedral. A blackbird is singing sweetly using the acoustics to amplify his melody.Rather a short trip. But inbetween we crossed through pretty lands and towns. 

First of which was Loches, A town of history, both Grand and Domestic. It was in this very Keep that J of Arc met the Dauphin and persuaded him to march to Reims to claim the crown. And more recently it was where Adrian and Adam got locked in over lunchtime during a visit of the dungeons!

As in most towns at this time of year it is Roadworks and Civic fettling. We had to crisscross the street on zig zag bridges that would deter any devil, so as not to fall in the holes and distress the new tarmac.

A café was found and the barman scooted round the corner to find us croissants - delivered in a silver salver. 

I notice that Thérèse Coffey must have been here as turnips are on the menu! Not any old swedes though…proper new season baby turnips. Sounded quite delicious. But we wanted to be off and look at the town so paid up and left. Only to find ourselves in a downpour. 

After sheltering for a while in front of a shop we decided to wait out the shower in another bar - more plebeian this time. The sort where chaps gather to bet on horses and buy their tobacco. It had a friendly buzz and good coffee. Even offering Vin Chaud - I could have been tempted but spotted it too late!

So a rapid circuit up through the arch and past the Keep and back down to the car, parked in front of what was The Palais de Justice and is now a Best Western! Then south along soggy fields and brimming lakes and rivers stopping only for a drink in a forlorn empty bar run by a taciturn lady and her mistrustful grumbling hound, and later to eat our quiches by a village lavoir cum mill leat picnic meadow.

Got to Périgueux a bit early but the time was soon eaten up by the usual failure to get the right road into the town. Honestly! How many times have we been here and never made it first go…

Just had a kir and Ricard by the cathedral in the sun. then a wander round the lovely old squares full of delightful shops. A greengrocer selling the baby turnips even! and a traiteur that makes you realise you need never cook again

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mYstav3yb9AZDKQE6

we cross over

 

Not a bad drive to Portsmouth and we were in the boarding queue in good time. But then everyone had to go through security…thank goodness we were on the right hand side. All we got was the under chassis scanner and a torch search of the interior. Those on the left had to get their luggage out and take it inside to go through a scanner. Anyway all was well, we were not incarcerated and were soon aboard eating our free victuals courtesy of our Club Voyage membership. 

As we sat watching Portsmouth slip by in garish purple illuminated towers and Christmas Tree lit tugs I got into conversation with a couple who were also peering into the gloom. We decided that the shape before us was indeed one of our useless aircraft carriers and that the three masts were in fact Warrior. Despite her most broad Darwen (Lancs) accent it transpired that the lady and chap lived in France, on the Gironde, and amazingly just down the road from Snail Roundabout! We spoke fondly of the molluscs but apparently one of chap’s local French mates is incensed by the 30,000 euros of His Money it cost! And has a tirade if ever it is mentioned.

Crossing was fine despite dire warnings and we arrived in blustery sunshine. Breakfast in Dol de Bretagne before the hunt for Calvados in the depths of La Normandie Profonde. 

We’d been there before by following signs down lanes but this time had to track it down from the other direction with guesswork. Success! Got there just before 12 and the smiling farmer stepped out of his house to open up the shed of delights. We came away with a bottle of the hard stuff and six of fizzy Poiré (pear cider). He then jumped on his electric scooter to zoom back to feeding his cows! Oh Brave New World.

The rest of the day was just getting across to Amboise. Nothing terribly exciting though we did see some pretty spots particularly along the Sarthe River. Ibis Budget is clean and comfortable. Not very busy. Supper in town at a crèperie - good ones. We like Amboise it’s quaint and intimate.