The crossing

PS   Sunday morning bright and early. Sunny. Breakfast in lovely Roscoff then onto the ship. It was the Pont Aven, flagship of the fleet!

Such luxury even if only some of the bars were open. Wonderful artwork and ceramics, sweeping staircase, swimming pool on top inner deck, sundecks...

And, inexplicably, this oversized teddybear on the maintenance truck on the car deck. The operative simply climbed on board and drove off with no sign of surprise or embarrassment.

Long long day

Oh dear, we are weary travellers. The day started grey as we left La Rochelle and drove across the Marais Poitevin. Breakfast was scheduled for the cafe in Luçon opposite the cathedral and croissants from the pâtisserie across the road. We are nothing if not organised! Eek! As we approached Luçon the laser display announces that the maire has decreed 'redynamisme' and the town is undergoing beautification. You may recall that our previous visit witnessed an 'incendie' in the centre of town with our mayor looking on. Was it all part of his plan...

Pâtisserie was closed too. But we found replacement supplies and the coffee is good - comes with its own little jugs of hot milk. After which we perambulated through the cinder packed dug up pavements and found this amazing edifice. At first we thought it was perhaps an old station or a church. As we gazed up at it a man appeared and I asked him if he knew anything about it. Well! He was the Local Expert. Knew everything and it was a fascinating tale. The building was a water tower built in the early 20th century, by the architect,  Francois Hennebique  - one of first buildings to use his reinforced concrete system. It was commissioned by Clemenceau to provide running water for the garrison of Dragoons that he had also established. C was a local man, say no more! So Luçon, this little out of the way rural town, became one of the first places in France to have piped water and electricity (because the back of the building was a coal fired power station).

Nourished in body and mind, we continued up the Vendée stopping only to get sandwiches. Yet another strange sight...an ATM for baguettes! Really. Adrian even saw a woman use it, despite the shop being open.

It was all just too exciting. More heavy rain as
we approached the St Nazaire bridge but
fortunately it stopped as we drew up in St Brevin across from the Chantiers Navals. The two mega
ships are coming along nicely* and the serpent d'océan is still hissing at the waves.

*Symphonie of the seas and MSC Meravidia.

We were rewarded by the sight of two big ships coming up the river as well as a tug. And views
of  Grand Charpentier lighthouse on the horizon.
But we still had miles to go so had to leave after an hour.

I was nodding off for most of the rest of our flight across Brittany so failed to navigate properly. Nevertheless we got here, Moguériec just near Roscoff, at about 5. Big room, quiet beach, comfort!

There's an old lighthouse that's under threat poor thing.
So that's pretty much it for this voyage. We get up early tomorrow for the 9.15 sailing and will be home for tea tomorrow.

I leave you with something so gross yet so French that we spotted in a Pharmacie window while waiting at traffic lights...


à bientôt!

Cahors to La Rochelle

via a lighthouse!

The morning was clear so we began by visiting the Pont Valentré before heading off. A lovely time to do it in the morning light with only a few people walking to work. Not a bad commute.

Imp on the Pont Valentré

Then we wended our way through the vignoble de Cahors and Quercy to the west. Had breakfast in a strange little Logis de France in a tiny village called Sauzet, investigated the meeting point of three départements and ended up on the A62 for a short hop to get us into the Gironde. By the time we got to the motorway the vast black clouds that had loomed before us for hours decided to explode. The whole stretch was a nightmare of spray and low visibility and I was relieved to leave it at Villandraut. Phew.

We drove pretty much the whole length of this big département, through pine forests and timbered houses, finally reaching our goal at the very tip of the Gironde Estuary - la Pointe de Grave, lighthouse and museum. Up top you get views for miles with the legendary Corduan Lighthouse centre stage out in the channel.

Finally the ferry across to Royan. And La Rochelle just before seven.

 It was still showery but we donned coats and walked to the port for delicious crêpes and a stroll along the quay in the evening sun. Mixed from
time to time with a downpour! Great place despite the ever increasing eateries that are springing up.

Wardrobe malfunction

We were up early despite last night's Frog Chorus... all packed, shutters closed, plants moved to shady part of terrace. Breakfast at Caderousse on the Café de France terrace...actually some tables underneath the awning! It was sunny. We were in shorts, the car temp was reading a healthy 20 degrees even at this early hour.












Spirits were high as we travelled through the Gard. Even climbing up into the Larzac Plateau and across the Millau Viaduct it looked promising. Then we stopped to buy a quiche and sausage roll in Pont de Salars. It never fails. As soon as you step out of the car away from the coastal plain and into the Massif Central, you are underdressed. The time of year is irrelevant. Always take jeans to change into. Why did we not?

We were making far too good time so at 2 we stopped for an hour in Villefranche de Rouergue, a picturesque bastide town on the Aveyron. Bit run down but interesting architecture and the church clock was actually playing a carillion chime - not that you could hear it above the motorised street sweeper cleaning up after the market. As we we finishing our coffee by the river, drops of rain pattered gently. Nothing major - yet. But by the time we were entering the Cahors boundary it was tipping down. 12 degrees, headlights on. Somehow I fear we will be eating in the Campanile restaurant instead of  taking an evening stroll across the Pont Valentré.

Avignon

Yesterday was hot. We was tired. But none the less off we trolled to Avignon just to walk round the park at the top and look at the views. Impressive they are too. We park over the river looking towards the Palais and stride forth across the Pont Edouard Deladier, thus avoiding parking charges!
Adam made an amazing discovery at the top of the steps...a gecko. It even posed for its photo.

Not too many groups but we did encounter a couple of Chinese crocodiles and one undisclosed nationality all sporting orange caps so they didn't get lost. And even up on the outcrop one is not spared Le Petit Train.







Having sat in the shade and talked to the ducks for a while, we braved the midday scorchio and descended towards the Palais itself. Amazingly there were no crowds and the vast square in front of the Petit Palais was virtually empty. Just handfuls of students eating their lunch in the shade and a bloke dressed as the invisible man trying to take a selfie without his head showing!

Adam wanted to see the river cruisers and the monument to Vaucluse joining with France at close quarters. Adrian did not. So we went our separate ways and jostled with the traffic and underpass. Legs were by now tiring but these things have to be seen at close quarters. The monument has already featured in these annals but here it is again. Over the top seems somehow inadequate!

Another dice with death across the highway and we were on the riverside walking the full length of Viking Cruises. Behind which was the most gross bow front of any that I have seen. Giant red lips with a red rose!  German, by name of A -Rosa luna...Be thankful I had no camera with me. Oh bad luck...found it on Wiki!

It was really hot now and we decided we should get back to Adrian and the car. The bridge wasn't far...famous last words. I should have remembered - there are no steps up on this side. We'd been caught before. Adrian was watching with zoom lens from his comfy riverside bench, chuckling as he saw us approach the dead end! Some time later, having retraced our steps to the boats, crossed at a crossing, gone under the subway, trekked back to the city gates and over the junction and across the bridge again, we sank into Berlingo's steamy embrace. Perrier, Perrier!

And so today. Last one. Packed, swept, washed clothes then out to Roaix for lunch. My poor darling plants are to be abandoned to the heat. I will water and leave them in the shade but I just know they will shrivel. Weep.

Circling le Géant

A full day today starting off to the north of Ventoux headed for Le Plateau d'Albion. It was sunny and warm and the whole way along the Toulourenc valley we were accompanied by what seemed to be the same blackcap singing at full volume. Obviously there were loads of them! And nightingales. And later, skylarks. We even heard a corncrake.

First stop was St Trinit the other side of Sault. This village is big on Cèpes - there's a giant one in a flower bed in front of the Mairie and various metal ones on walls.










,

Quite a charming spot, up high and airy. But one suspects it gets busy in summer...there's a Résidence de Vacances with pool.

Up here it's lavender fields and sheep. No vines, few orchards. Everywhere are little stone cairn-like huts called bories.
And poppies! It is a fabulous year for them.

The plateau was formerly home to France's missile base near St Christol and we were headed that way but then we passed through Revest du Bion and it was lunchtime and there was a pretty little restaurant serving a 15 euro menu. We stopped! Delicious daube de boeuf as main course and stuffed tomato with goat's cheese plus pudding and coffee. And the most glorious cockerel on a windowsill flanked by dark pink shutters - almost a Tricolore.

St Christol itself is in the bowl of the hills. The silos are now disaffected and mostly repurposed but we did pass one right next to the road that had still to find a new use. The Légion Étrangère has appropriated the base itself. Up above the village are yet more lavender fields. It's pretty empty for obvious reasons and a wildlife paradise. As well as hearing the corncrake we saw three magnificent birds of prey soaring and swooping. Ashamed to say
we could not ID them definitely. Pale wings with dark spread edges. But no mushrooms allowed!








Even this wasn't enough for us. The final visit was the Mur de la Peste on the south side. Fabulous views of the summit.
Quick purchase of a box of Côtes du Ventoux then home for tea!

Village life

A real local Vide Grenier today. Local people setting out their wares in aid of the school. And what a turn out...even to the extent of blocking Deb and Gary's door. Fortunately they are away for a few days but I am watering the plants! Had to squeeze through a tiny gap to get in.

Of course a lot of it is, well...tat. But there were some interesting items, including a set of Villeroy Boch four seasons plates. I already have one, so managed to obtain two more for 5€ each. Not bad.
Then we sat on the bar terrace enjoying the bustle before lunch on the terrace in warm sun - at last!

To Vaison this afternoon for another look at the exhibition in the renaissance cathedral in the Haute Ville. Each chapel contains a costume from a costume artist together with architectural paintings. It's strange but I liked it.

The dresses all seem to be wedding dresses. This one was part of a traditional local costume from the 19th century, together with a spinning spindle. Reminded me of the traditional song En filant ma quenouille.

The building is being restored by a local organisation and you can still see the old renaissance paintwork on the walls and ceilings. As cathedrals go, it's quite compact. It seems destined to be an arts and music venue.

Yet more sitting in the sun. This time in the Place Montfort. Then back via the Roman ruins and le Petit Train (yes, it's officially
Tourist Season) and this curious window of art accessories. So all in all, quite an arty après-midi.

Heating up

We've been promised a storm and all day huge clouds were massing to the west but as yet...nothing. We have vivid blue sky and temps into the mid twenties so after our market stop we headed Rhônewards to discover new things.

We like to find river confluences and Adam requested that we found that of the Cèze and Rhône. It's as good a hook to pin an explore on as any and we usually discover new places on these forays. The starting point was the CNR barrage at Caderousse. Luckily as we arrived a barge was in the lock. Fidelity by name. As it passed beneath us we could see it was empty and had none of the usual domestic accoutrements such as bikes, a spare car, flower pots, etc. And the name on the stern was half painted out with no port of registry. So, had it been sold, was it headed for the scrap heap? Who knows.

Moving on, down a dirt road and to one side of the confluence. Quite interesting, but we could see a better spot on the far side. Our bit had a dire warning in various languages about venturing onto the edge of the Cèze.  We needed to get round to the other side and en route detour to a little town called Laudun l'Ardoise where there is a hilltop gallo roman settlement, a vast fortified church and, amazingly a mini Pont du Gard!

It really is a fine little place and we'll go back another time to walk the hilltop. But today we settled for a climb up to the château gardens and a peek at the aqueduct. It is built in the same style as the Roman one, using the same materials and techniques but just tiny! And it goes through gardens into a modern estate!

Then a tortuous drive down unmarked lanes round the port until we got to the desired spot where there was of course a camper van with
umbrella and a couple sitting reading at their table! And a small port where access was forbidden - barges moored up loaded with gravel.
This is Adam's photo of the sluices letting excess water out of the river.

Back home to threatening clouds. Hope the rain holds off as it's pizza at the bar and Eurovision here! Can't afford a break in transmission.

Three's company

Adam is collected. Of course we had to detour via IKEA on our way so Adrian could get his hands on another project! It matches our outside dining table and chairs and is perfect for apéros.

Malaucène and beyond

Off betimes before the promised drizzle. Clouds gathering to the south. But it's quite warm. In fact Malaucène was sunny. We had crispy croissants and OK coffee in our bar and loaded the carrier bag with goodies for the impending visit of The Boy.

Still no rain so we risked a visit to Roadrunner. The back road to Bédoin is achingly gorgeous across the flanks of Ventoux massif. It climbs out of the cherry orchards on the northern side to umbrella pines, low growing box, pretty little scrub flowers overlooking the plain towards the Lubéron. Parcs et jardins go great guns here with their topiary. Every box bush on the roadside is trimmed into shape - table top, lollipop, oval flame, and...as you all well know...Roadrunner lui-même! We reckon we've seen him for 27 years now.

A while back we gave him a mulch of spent compost from our containers. Still visible - just. And he is looking well on it! Beautifully trimmed.














Anyway we managed to get home in the dry before one of the forecast occasional showers appeared. Now watching the Giro on Equipe 21 TV. Sunny in Sicily.

Money

Once more, the day after a bank holiday we decided to go to Sérignan in search of cash. It was sunny, not so windy so the prospect of an explore was fed into the mix. We were in luck! The ATM was bursting with notes and dispensed lots of them. None of your 50€ jobs, oh no!  20s and 10s - how sensible.

 Sérignan is a bit run down but has a grand history from the look of the fine buildings round the old château. And there's a good pottery with pretty things that I'd love to buy...

It was also the home of Jean-Henri Fabre, father of Entymology. His estate is now a national museum with gardens and workrooms showing what he did. The town has huge wrought iron statues of creepy crawlies on the roundabouts. These have appeared in previous editions of le blog.

There's also a large open space with a lake by the modern school and library. Quite unusual in French villages in these parts. A notice forbids you to feed bread to the swans and ducks. This magnificent creature glided towards us at Mach 1 and looked up as if to say 'it doesn't say anything about not feeding cake!'





This took us neatly to lunchtime and a little café  we know in Travaillan - undistinguished sprawl of a place on the Plan de Dieu. Somewhere we are pretty sure none of our acquaintance would go! Home cooked, good service 13€50 including wine. Le Pen country - she won handsomely here!

Home via Cairanne and a look at the Aygues. Mistletoe isn't just for Christmas.