It rained

Well we knew it would - just a matter of time really. 

Anyway before that we had an excellent stay in Ibis Budget. A new hotel with a proper separate shower room and comfy beds. All clean and sparkly! Bigger room too. And the Japanese ‘all you can eat’ down the road. We went to said eatery and eventually grasped the concept. Not exactly all you can eat but I think we could have had seconds or even thirds! I expect you are all old hands at this but my only experience of a Japanese restaurant was in Yokohama forty odd years ago… 

So, here goes. We sat down, waiter brought us a tablet ipad thing with all the dishes on it and explained (more than once) what we had to do. ie choose up to five dishes each, maximum of ten overall. Click on ‘basket’ ( just like an Amazon order), check and confirm. ipad then said the order was with the kitchen and would be delivered in…well, a countdown then appeared! And then, good god! It was like a Cheesoid (a Comedy sketch creature from David  Mitchell), or a Wallace and Gromit contraption - a cylinder with facial expression glided up to our table bearing one of the dishes. We took it off and pressed the word ‘terminer’ that had replaced the face, and the creature rolled its eyes and mouth and slid back to the kitchen.

All the dishes were fabulous, delicious and perhaps we should have had more. But I hadn’t twigged the system at this point. You had to wait 15 mins between orders and you had a maximum of five goes. I expect that was all in the overall price but at the time we thought it would be extra. Never mind, we had eaten plenty!

This morning we were waiting for it to get light but it never did. The threatened rain started at seven and thundered down in torrents. At 8.30 we decided to make a break for it and Adrian did sterling work driving out of town in zero visibility into oncoming headlights. Yikes! Eventually a bit of light appeared in the clouds and the traffic lessened. We dashed into a sleepy café in the first town we came to. Good coffee thank goodness because there was no way I was walking up the street to get croissants. We sat for a while listening to some good music on the MTV video channel that is ubiquitous in bars then reluctantly splashed back to the car. All plans of going to Contis lighthouse on the coast had long since been abandoned. We should probably have gone yesterday afternoon. No matter, we’ve been before and may again another time.

In Belin-Béliet up in the Landes we spotted a boulangerie with close by parking. The rain eased for a while as I dashed across for sandwiches. Horrors, literally. The whole shop was festooned with pretend cobwebs and various gruesome figures were dotted about, pumpkins, hags, goblins. And a hideous automaton shrieking curses in American at full volume.  Got the baguettes and retreated.

We continued at a good rate up the fast straight yellow roads and eventually got to Hourtin Plage at 12. Desolation but we did see the sea - just.

Hourtin Plage 

After that it was more of the same up to the ferry at Pointe de Grave. Quite pleasant actually. We know these roads well and will come again so it didn’t matter about the rain. Got the 3.30. It was pretty full but we’d been at the front of the queue, so no problem. And it briefly stopped raining.

Gironde ferry

The ferry nipped across in a mere 25 minutes and we were off before 4 and in Kyriad La Rochelle at 5.10. Good to be here and we are anticipating a blow out pizza/pasta in Del Arte.

On the way through the marshes we saw a couple of storks standing guard over their nest on top of a pylon.

Tomorrow will be a fast run up to Roscoff so not very interesting. We should be home late tomorrow night. Thanks for your company.

Killing time

 Once again got the timing wrong! We should have known as we’ve done this route before. So here we are in Mont de Marsan Ibis Budget carpark waiting for reception open at 5… Having already spent a couple of hours in the town walking about and having a drink. It isn’t the most thrilling of places - nice enough with a few once grand 19th century buildings in the centre like the Post Office and Hotel de Ville and the Théâtre  Municipal by the bridge. But otherwise a basic provincial town despite being the Préfecture of Les Landes Département. Rather a lot of nude bronze statues ! But the fountains are jolly- gushing forth jets of pink- coloured water for Octobre Rose (breast cancer month). November is prostate month - Novembre Bleu so I wonder if they’ll change colour then. 

And we have ear splitting roaring fighter jets taking off from the local air base, flocks of black kites circling above us, and just now Big Bertha (airbusT400 transporter) at rooftop level. Just like home! (we see the English one most days going back and forth to somewhere).

Mont de Marsan

Last night we had a very expensive but only OK meal so didn’t indulge in cassoulet after all. Don’t think we’ll eat there again although the hotel itself was fine. There were trees outside our window under which we had street parked along with everyone else. Guess who came to roost?, Delightful twittering starlings of course and it was wonderful to hear them wake up in the light at 8 and go off about their daily business. Until we looked at the cars! First stop of the day was the car wash 🤗 

Great drive across the rolling upland farmlands. Mostly along the ridge roads with long views to the Pyrenees - quite a bit of snow on the very high ones. This is a lovely part of France, clothed in sunflowers in summer, interesting little towns of Roman brick, allées of plane trees edging the roads, pretty canal banks etc. We stopped for a hot choc in Samatan but that was all. Weather still warm and sunny. We’re trying a Japanese place up the road tonight…will report back!

Le grand départ…again

 Up and out by 8. It was light and the sun was just coming over silhouetted Ventoux and the Dentelles with a ruff of mist clinging picturesquely to the flanks. For once we took the Autoroute as far as Sète then down through the Picpoul vines to Marseillan - about 2 hours. There we had a very nice coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice and croissant each alongside the boats. Rather too many English ‘boaty’ people as ever. It was actually quite quiet despite half term. Then across the port to Noilly for a three pack assortment!

Marseillan

We’d loads of time, having somewhat overstimated how long the drive would take and were in danger of getting to Castelnaudary by lunchtime. Not that we were planning to eat seeing as we are anticipating Cassoulet for supper! So I rerouted us via Béziers and Narbonne to the Étang de Bages and our beloved Peyriac de Mer. Blimey! what a change here. Designated paid carparks and residents only parking round the water! It was heaving too. So we drove round onto the island and somewhat fearful (me) left the car by the sluice gate, and went for a walk up to the salty pool. No one swimming, not many walking either, and in fact here it was very quiet so maybe the crowds were all at the cafés. Can’t blame people for visiting because it is so fabulous. Lots of flamingoes.

Peyriac de Mer

Final leg was through the southern Corbières and up to Carcassonne and then Castelnaudary where we bought tins of confit etc at considerable expense! And to kill time before the hotel opened we walked down the Canal du Midi to the bassin and sat in the sun watching a swan preening itself, totally oblivious to passers by, scooters, bikes, runners. We once watched coypu swimming across at dusk to be fed. Lovely spot and such an amenity for the town. Same as Marseillan though…it attracts the boaty folk! Every barge was Anglophone.

We are in the Hotel du Centre et du Lauragais, famous for its cassoulet, so might indulge. Adam and Adrian ate one here ages ago and pronounced it ‘good’. Not got any smart clothes to change into, mind!

Canal du Midi Castelnaudary

Up the airy mountain

 Another glorious day. Off betimes to Bédoin to get there before the crowds. We think it’s half term so there might be hordes. All the way there heading east, we were dazzled by sunlight and Ventoux stood out clear as a bell. The carpark was not full, good sign. And in fact the market was just pleasantly bustling. All good. Got croissants and sat ourselves down in the little café behind the rotisserie and enjoyed our breakfast. The troops appeared as we were returning to the car so that was good timing!

We just had to go up the hill, it was beckoning. And really the drive up through the forest was magical. Autumn colours under way and every now and then there was a shower of gold as leaves fell down, like someone tipping out a bag of coins. The temperature dropped and the wind got up as we got out at the plateau. Brr. And a cloud decided to come and shroud the summit! Didn’t last though and we were rewarded with a fabulous view of snow capped peaks way over to the north east.

Of course we had to visit The Shrine - beloved bench. This involved today’s scree slope scramble - up from the parking area by the radar dome. We had it to ourselves and patted what little is left of its slats, hoping it will continue to survive.

View from Ventoux

Rasteau

 Having vacuumed the middle floor I was ready for the Sunday Stroll in warm sunshine and windless air. Off we drove to Rasteau. A shaft of sun had been illuminating the village all morning, calling to us from across the valley. But when we got there, oh dear. No parking. Rasteau too was having the annual breast cancer event. Pink umbrellas were the decoration of choice here as usual and they were having a giant Aligot feast in the square - 20 euros a pop.

So instead we headed out round the back of the hill and through Roaix to another lovely viewpoint and a short walk up the lane into pebble strewn vines. I admit I took fright at the distant sight of an orange hi viz vest - it IS Sunday after all - and returned down the hill before Adrian.

Into Rasteau the back way, where we parked and walked down to the bar for the usual. Then watched the happy throng tuck into their barbecued Toulouse sausage and mash. Not any old mash though… Aligot has to be my absolute favourite - potatoes, creme fraîche, cantal cheese, garlic. See the man making it in his cauldron. That’s the way to do it!

Making the aligot

Final Saturday

 After the passing storm on Thursday night all is sweetness and light again. Warm, sunny and calm.

Yesterday we did very little until the afternoon when we stirred our stumps and drove to Gravillas for the last wine supplies and then on to Visan and back over what they like to call ‘la montagne’ to Buisson. We had a short walk on the top through familiar vines to an iconic pine tree that is sadly looking very dead. Dramatic cloudscapes. 

In Buisson we discovered an interesting photo exhibition in the restored Tour de Guet. A joint project by local and Brasilian photographers - strange. But Buisson is a bit quirky. The main area by the fountain has been taken over by the bistrot and furnished with what appears to be the contents of a house clearance! A motley collection of tables and sofas and chairs.

Today the gradual gathering together of Stuff began. Bed changed - that sort of thing. For once we didn’t go to the market because we really don’t need anything. But it was too nice a day to do nothing so after lunch off we set to Cairanne for a bidon to keep us going until we leave! Then to Tulette for petrol. And then to Bouchet intending to have a coffee in the Auberge. However… the village had a strangely large amount of cars around. No parking spaces by the river. And it turned out there was a Salon des Saveurs de la Drôme going on in the Abbaye. What luck. Loads of people tasting and buying. I waited patiently for five or so local pomegranates to be squeezed into my paper cup - so delicious! And got some sheep milk faisselles. The solitary chap in the photo below was one of the Confrérie des Caillettes - the Guild of Faggots!

Bouchet

Finally we did get to Ste Cécile after all and had a drink in the Bar du Commerce because they were in the sun and L’Union wasn’t. We are fair weather customers. The town was full of folk in pink tee shirts and there was brassière bunting round the square in front of the hôtel de ville. Breast Cancer event.

Twas on a Wednesday evening the plumber came to call

 Don’t faint! Yes we actually got a plumber to come within living memory. There had been a slight leak from the inlet pipe to the cistern. Nothing serious but you know, these things should get fixed. So I'd been to Brando’s and booked a visit for sometime this week. Chap would phone when he was en route so I had to keep phone switched on and to hand. This is why the blessed thing was in my back pocket when using the loo! I don't usually take it into the bathroom. Anyway that meant I had to give them Adrian’s phone number and I was carting his device everywhere, but with great care.

Wednesday morning was not looking promising as we did the market. Much reduced number of stalls and grey clouds. We sat in the café with our usual, watching people and delivery vehicles, then returned via Suzette to deposit vast quantities of unwanted books. And then we discovered a new walk on a road off opposite the back of the Dentelles. One to remember for next time. Now, would you risk eating this? Thought not!

Magic mushroom

By now it was bright and we just had to zoom to Roaix to sit out. Every opportunity must be grabbed!

Plumber phoned at about 4 saying he’d be an hour. It struck 6 and still no sign so we were about to give up when at that very moment he arrived. They work late in France. Less than half an hour later he’d changed the washers, and fitted a brand new water saving flush and a new float valve. Very smart.

Very warm last night - never went below 21 degrees and today it’s over 25. Strong southerly wind and heavy white clouds but sunny as well. Final plat du jour in Villedieu because they are having two weeks off.

And we too are soon off. Next Wednesday in fact. Mostly because we realised the clocks go back on 26th and we don’t want to be driving in the dark at 3 or 4 pm. So a quick change of hotel and ferry dates was required. Dear Kyriad in La Rochelle was the only one I’d booked as a non refundable, but they most kindly agreed to change the date for no extra charge because we are ‘clients fidèles’. We will be home in Bullsmead about 10 pm on 26th just in time to gain back the hour!

Mr Boukersanna is going to paint our windows while we are away.

And breathe…

 After the excitements of yesterday we felt the need for some scenery, so where better than the Toulourenc Valley. That lovely road round the north side of Ventoux with is trees and meadows. And..ahem… rather a lot of overnight campervans in lay-bys! Just at the beginning, they soon faded, and we were mostly alone on the road. The colours are now turning -yellows and reds- and it was so warm. Our objective was Savoillans. A small village that in season is quite busy with rural activity holidays. Today though all was still and virtually empty. Just the post van and a lady walking along with her shopping bag. I sat in the sun  on a bench by the auberge and boulangerie listening to the rustling leaves and the water in the lavoir. Bliss.

Savoillans

It was almost midday. The inevitable decision! Did we go on to Montbrun or back to Brantes? Brantes won. It’s a jumble of precariously planted stone houses clinging to the hillside with views to die for - maybe literally🙀 A walk up through the cobbled streets admiring the new crèperie (closed) and the pottery. Not bothering to find the artisan brewery. And eventually to a little terrace café overlooking the village and the mountain behind. We were the only customers apart from a gaggle of lycra clad cyclists who came and used the loos! Really warm. Delicious omelettes, even more delicious desserts, wine and coffee  €45. 

We ended up failing to get on the road to Ventoux out of Sault! Really - how many times have we been there so how did we miss it. Instead we wound our way to Bédoin, picked up 6 of their best rouge and back home via Caromb and a Gros Pain.

Don’t drop your mobile down the loo Mrs Worthington!

 Tis The Curse of The Mellings…my sister did this some months ago but did I heed the warning? Oh no. Phone in back pocket of jeans and you can guess the rest! How stupid of her I scoffed. Well who's laughing now, not me. Phone was retrieved -you know, you CAN do it in an emergency! I have fished for car keys in the past. Anyway it looks like the machine is dead, certainly not functioning at the moment. I was about to get a newer model anyway but not until back in UK as obviously I will need a sim card with my current number on it. So monetarily it isn’t a huge blow - just the In Convenience (geddit!). I can hotspot on Adrian’s until then.

And it had been such a successful day up to then. I had taken Adrian to the doctors about his stained thigh. If you don’t already know about this from himself here’s a summary. He had a sort of red patch just before we left UK and thought it just a bruise starting. But it has got bigger and bigger until it now almost goes right round. Not painful but a bit concerning especially as it’s now a grubby purple. Lyme Disease says I. Pshaw he responds. But really all those tick bites he gets…So we get up at 7 and are in the doctors’ waiting queue at 7.45. It’s first come first served if you are not registered and haven’t an appointment. Waiting room doors open at 8.30, various patients are called in and eventually come out. They seem to get 30 minutes here. Receptionist only wanted the GHIC.

We were getting a bit despondent after two hours, when suddenly Mr Smith was called! Lovely doctor, who we’d seen last time. She asked what the issue was and before she so much as had a look she asked ‘Do you have deer? Sounds like Lyme Disease!’ Yeah… and so she decided it was, once she examined the area. Penicillin prescribed and notes made on the computer plus advice as to what to do.

€26+ by card at reception and down the road to the Pharmacie for two weeks’ worth of penicillin - (strawberry flavour) - €24.49.

That’s not Manderley it’s the Northern Lights!

Oh yes dear reader, it was not just the UK who got amazing celestial disco lights last week. Even here in the Deep South can you believe! see below

Scroll back a few days. We’ve had glorious clear sunny days and warmth since Tuesday.  Wednesday you already know about. Thursday we toddled off to the so-called natural wetland near Châteauneuf for a walk. It was lovely but, well …No Water. In fact the étang was dry as a bone and newly mown with just clumps of reeds like desert oases. Strange. Lots of dragonflies however and a lizard or two. Also a large flock of swallows skimming about, presumably stocking up before they head to Africa.  Far too many magpies around everywhere. We fetched up in Caderousse, quiet as the grave, for a coffee and beer.

The étang

Friday we went again to Brando’s for some essential tool or other. The festivities were still on, place heaving, and today a man serving up omelettes and frites from the promotion of the day - a fryer of some sort. We escaped to the relative sanity of Vaison itself and to see a small exhibition of Ventoux photos. The little gallery was manned by a young chap (one of the photographers) and as we were admiring the works he said ‘come and see what I took last night’. On his computer were two stunning images of the aurora borealis - one from Pierrelongue on the way to Buis and the other from Vaison. We were gobsmacked that they could be seen so far south. Our chap is a devotee of nature and meteorological phenomena and he’d known the event was due. Very pink and purple, he explained, because the green lights are only seen farther north. I’ve screenshotted his Facebook page with one of the images here.

Northern lights Vaucluse

Elsewhere in town a mega crane was carrying intrepid tree surgeons to the top of the carpark plane trees for their annual haircut. Twigs and branches hurtling gaily down. In the evening a very pleasant soirée with John and Louise - wonderful quiche made with parmesan pastry. Wish I could cook like that!

Vaison street scenes

And today it is once more duvet grey and cooler. Ste Cécile market still much reduced but at least the plant seller is back…Toussaint is looming! We braved the outside for coffee and said hello to dear Nicole of the honey and bought a jar. She logged me down in her little book and noted it was exactly a year since my last purchase! Grabbed a six bottle carton of Cairanne Plan de Dieu - buy six get one free🤗  - and a detour into the vines above Rasteau for views of the clouds round Ventoux. Two vultures floated up from the distant trees and lolloped away effortlessly. Very autumnal all of a sudden.

Ventoux and cloud

Wild Wednesday

 Yesterday cleared up at lunchtime and we came out of the cinema to bright sunshine. Excellent film by the way. A BBC coproduction so it will probably be on iplayer one of these days.

clouds over Ventoux

Today the wind is back and from the south so it's very warm. Amazing clouds over Ventoux as we battled our way up Malaucène market but in the café we found a sheltered table for the usual.

On the way home we decided it was too nice to shut ourselves inside so we detoured up to Crestet. Such fabulous views and really quite empty save for a few Swiss cars up by the Château. And two ladies speaking in what I think was Romansh. Certainly not German or French but with overtones of both and a lilting Italian cadence.

Crestet

The village as always was achingly picturesque with cobbled lanes and pretty pots of flowers and heavy wooden doors set into the stone walls. Above our price range alas.

As it was warm we thought we’d try Roaix to see if we could sit out to eat. Miraculously the wind did not so much as ruffle a leaf - well maybe just the one! We were joined by a couple of dozen more diners and had a really nice meal.

The forecast is DIRE but we are hoping it might not quite reach us.

It is WET

Not quite hurricane Milton but certainly a roaring thunderous wind overnight. Rain too. But unnaturally mild. Fortunately Jen has spotted a film. She tapped on the door at 7  last night looking like a waif in the storm, clutching the Florian brochure with film circled in biro. Did we want to go with her? Gérard of course does not! The Outrun starring Saoirse Ronan (she of Brooklyn and some well-known films I haven’t seen). Despite a German sounding director we decided it must be in English so have arranged to go to the 2.30 this afternoon to get out of the rain.

rain

I am bombarded with offers of freebies. Not only the Brando’s bounty from yesterday but Santander and Brittany Ferries. Santander send a full page offer of “Coffee or Croissant?” as I log on. Indeed. No joke. A £5 voucher to spend in some chain or other if I request a home insurance quote. Desperate.

More interesting but probably doomed to disappointment is the BF email. Register for a free return overnight crossing, including cabins and drinks reception, on a sea trial voyage of their new LPG Hybrid St Malo at the end of January. I immediately signed up (twice as it happens, by accident) but the lucky winners are to be drawn from the Sorting Hat so I am prepared for failure.

The founding father

Serendipity

 Monday morning grey and drizzly. Que faire? Well…we need a new kitchen bin as our current one has rusted away. We also need a plumber to fix the leaking loo cistern tap. Solution is of course Brando’s - aka Vaison Ménager. ‘La Samaritaine’ of Vaison where they sell everything! Even better, I am allowed to drive.

We arrive and park in the surprisingly chocabloc parking - usually pretty empty. Then see an ancient black Citroën with sandwich board on its roof proclaiming that today is the 100th birthday of Brando’s - 20% off everything! Inside all is mayhem. Man in wheelchair with microphone announcing bargains and exhorting customers to fill in the lucky dip lottery forms, queues of people, cacophony of sound. I managed to register for the plumber who should come next week, we found a smart new plastic bin having decided that metal was a waste of time, and at the checkout we were given a commemorative tote bag and    asked to spin a wheel of fortune to win yet another gift. This was one of those cardboard parking timer disc things! 

Brando is 100

Somewhat shell shocked by the whole experience we retired to Vaison for a saunter and hot chocolate. But the carnival continued. Outside the Roman ruins we came upon two giant heads made from chrome tubing gazing towards the cathedral.

Romans

Vaison is not bad on a Monday because quite a few of its shops are open, especially the bookshop and upmarket pâtisserie. So after an indulgent hot chocolate topped with shaving foam we browsed the literary offerings, bought cards etc and bread and superior chocolate eclairs. Admiring as we passed, the window completely full of fruits confits!

Sugar plums etc

Indoor market

 Bit chilly this morning despite the clear sky. Or maybe because of it. Market much reduced as stallholders take a well earned break before the next school holidays. However more garlic was obtained from the nice man who grows it near Piolenc. You will recall that Piolenc is garlic central with a concrete giant one on its outskirts on the N7. Then coffees inside at Bar de l’Union…only the staff sat outside with their vapes!

garlic 

We detoured home via Violès again to get bread from their much superior boulangerie. And discovered our butcher from Malaucène there with his stall. So maybe we can shop there instead. It was so nice that we had another coffee in the pergola covered café where there was a group of ancients speaking in both French and Spanish. Each in their own language but fully comprehending the other.

Giant prawns and mayonnaise for lunch, a short walk round the vines. That’s it for today.

You might wish to donate to Warchild - a charity we saw on BBC world news.

Warchild

Having a rest…

 …From social engagements. Friday bright, sunny, blue skies and fierce wind!

All we did was motor to Violès for a sit in the lovely café with coffees. The strawberry tree was full of gold and crimson baubles, a beautiful white admiral butterfly fought its way against the gale and soaked up the sun on our table, tractors trundled past full of grapes.

Violès

After lunch Mr Boukersanna came round to apologize for not replying to messages. He thought my foreign number might be scams. Poor man has an injured finger and is being held up on another job! Usual story…our windows might have to wait until Spring.

Culture

 In Aix. We went off this morning in city clothes to meet friend John from Paris at the Hotel Caumont Aix where there is a Pierre Bonnard exhibition. He came from Paris on a day return! €120 return first class.He is a Bonnard fan. 

Hotel Caumont door

Lovely day, breezy and not too hot.We got there without problem, parked in a subterranean carpark two mins from the museum and awaited his arrival. On the way passing the vast lycée where Zola, Cézanne, Anatole France and others had been pupils. It was BUSY. School parties sketching, old crones tottering in en masse…but nevertheless a good experience. The building has Quality writ large and the garden café restaurant was a dream. We actually had to eat in one of the the grand rooms inside but had our coffee outside later. Utterly delicious Thai beef salad followed by equally delicious fig or raspberry tarte. 31€.

Hotel Caumont Aix

The exhibition was OK - some good, some not so good paintings. The gift shop an example to us all! V tasteful. I particularly liked the collection of plates with good table manners for children. “I do not make a noise at table”, “I do not talk with my mouth full”, “I taste before I say I don’t like it”, “I always say please and thank you”. Ah…if only.

Etiquette for tinies

Really we should have stayed overnight so we could have explored city again. 

Goodbyes

TGV Avignon (image)

 Yesterday we dropped Terry off at Avignon TGV then returned via the north side of the river in a fruitless journey to find  butter. The river cruisers were all in and crocodiles of tourists, mostly Chinese, were disgorging from the ranks of coaches that had driven them all of five minutes to the city walls. A large tanker was piping out effluent from one vessel, vans were offloading crates of drinks onto another.

We did pass (the operative word) a Lidl at Roquemaure but were bent on having a coffee in Caderousse so continued. Caderousse was closed! Monday. So we thought maybe Camaret would do because there is a small Intermarché there. I refuse to go into the one in Orange! Anyway Camaret also closed. We gave up.

At 6 we were just warming up the leftover pizza when Liz and Keith appeared. Wine was opened and news imparted. They have had An Offer on their house. So mixed emotions all round.

Today we took them to Villedieu for lunch in the sun and had a really jolly time. They are off home on Thursday so it was farewell until, hopefully, next Spring. The house sale is unlikely to be completed before then they think.

Villedieu lunch (image)