10 April 2026

About Face

​Alas. The morning we leave Royan after a wonderful and far too short stay. It was a bit cooler and a there was a little cloud but it was still sparkling. The ferry was already plying his trade back and forth. But there you go, we weren’t to know in advance how good it would be. Many miles up the coast just beyond Rochefort we stopped off for breakfast in St Laurent de la Prée, a village we’ve vaguely known for years. Once camped nearby when I left my credit card in a pizzería in La Rochelle! Long story…I got it back, but my family still pull my leg over my reaction! Anyway we found a restaurant and boulangerie and had a couple of huge if expensive g-cs. V nice.


It was a pleasant easy drive up through the marshes - lots of storks, one even carrying twigs for its nest. Farther along we saw a dead tree with three nests, one on each level like an apartment block of storks. And the usual pop into Port du Pavé to see what was happening. One time it was ladies wading in bathing costumes with shrimping nets, last time just strong winds. Today we were amazed to see big flat bottomed shellfish boats hauled up being repainted and generally refettled.


The plan had been to have lunch even farther up in Port du Bec but we were thinking we’d never get there in time. It didn’t really matter but when it came to it we got there just after 1.15 and they welcomed us. Great plates of langoustines, chips and puds.


Then, a surreal experience. I thought I heard the skirl of the pipes! So did Adrian. The lady opposite seemed to notice something. But there was nothing. Or was there? After we’d finished and were driving up to the end of the quay we saw him…a man with wild hair, a tartan cloth over his shoulder and A Set Of Bagpipes!! He was occasionally producing a drone and hoot. And he strode up to the end where he gave what passed for a melody before turning round and walking all the way back.


Now those of you who know me will know that Bagpipes are high on my list of hates- up there with bread and butter pudding and campervans!

There isn’t a great deal more to report. The countryside is colourful- predominantly pinky purple - with Judas trees, cherry blossom, dusty pink feathery tamarisk along the roadside, feral wisteria scrambling up trees and through hedges. 

We had a mercy dash to Intermarché Pornichet for 20 litres of wine in boxes to see us over the hot summer months then got to Batz sur Mer and the same hotel as Tuesday night. Crêpes and Galettes in Le Croisic…I must go on a strict diet!