Alarm set for 6 and we were out of the hotel by 6.20. Not yet light. But why? Well we had a ferry to catch in Royan at 7.50 across the Gironde. Got up there in bags of time - it’s a straightforward drive down through the marshes but you never know! Saw flocks of unidentified birds over the reserves and some storks feeding in the waterlogged fields but it was really too dark. Dawn broke over Royan and St Georges de Didonne as we sat in the queue to board. All looked very lovely. And a bonus...On board they have a bar serving decent coffee and croissants so that gave us even more time. No need to stop on the other side. Good too.
Then it was a fast drive through the pine forests and lakes to hunt down lighthouse number 1 (well, and 2 actually, as they are a pair). Hourtin. They are hidden away down a forestry commission road that is only open out of summer period. A long way down... but we found them. You could hear the sea roaring on the other side of the dunes but couldn’t see it. It was a beautiful clear day and getting warmer.
Onwards down the coast stopping briefly in Lacanau Océan for old times sake. The old village has interesting art nouveau houses but really it is surf city and not at its best out of season.Closed up and being refurbed for the summer. But everywhere in the forest and gardens are huge stands of big mimosa trees. Some in full flower, others fading. A sea of yellow.
We were aiming for lunch in Arcachon and a view of Lighthouse the third - Cap Ferret. We’ve
been up it in the past. But it took so long to negotiate the warren of urban sprawl along the Bassin that we didn’t see too much of Arcachon itself. What we did see looked fabulous. Art Nouveau houses, smart shops, an air of chic! Great beaches of course. And oyster cafés. So in fact what we did was drive a bit farther round to the entrance of the Bassin, opposite Cap Ferret where there’s a coast path along the edge of the dunes and elegant houses with views to die for. And, a bar restaurant! Oysters and fish soup and tarte tatin and crêpe. All outside in the sun on the water’s edge.
Finally...the last lighthouse. Really is. He’s bagged all the rest! Contis. A long way down, took us about an hour and a half but it was so worth it.
The sea was pounding away and the beach just runs for hundreds of kilometres in both directions. Fine clean squeaky sand.
Now we are in a brand new Première Classe outside Mont de Marsan about to snack on nuts and crisps.
