Lovely day, had to go out! The Rhône seemed like a reasonable destination but half way there we changed plans as to exactlly which bit and then discovered that of all the maps we thought we had on board, the relevant one was not amongst them! Michelin, though excellent and detailed, just does not have the tiny unadopted tracks we use, so it was a question of trying to remember which one of the zillions we'd been down before. This led to some unexpected discoveries, as usual! One of which was this graphic stand of windbreak poplars dividing two immaculately tilled and drilled fields. Dry and crumbly, waiting for the season's planting and but a stone's throw from the thundering A7 to the left.
This land between the motorway and the river is amazing. It is hidden, fertile farmland with huge farmsteads, arable crops, vines, tall trees.
And then just before the river there is the TGV track and massive high voltage power lines. Despite all this it is calm and quiet once away from the road. Birdsong fills the air, together with the rushing of wind through the tall branches. Broken from time to time by the whoosh of the trains, soon gone.
Anyway we eventually got down to one of the places we've previously been where you can climb some steps and stand virtually on the railway track. Most bizarre! Then of course, sod's law, no trains! We had heard loads of them earlier but now we were in position they were obviously having lunch. Eventually a couple graced us with a fly past and we went on our way somewhat mollified.
Memory served us well. We drove bravely down the gravel and beaten earth service track parallel with the river but divided from it by a watercourse, until we reached the place where you can walk across to the bank. It's a nature reserve technically, and rather lovely with iris in the water, occasionally herons. Nightingales we think and many twittering unidentified birds. Last time I was here a hare careered past me and disappeared into the undergrowth.
There we sat for a while looking across to St Etienne des Sorts. No river traffic. Three men deep in conversation a bit farther along the levée. No one else. It was warm.
As we were only just across the motorway from Mornas with its imposing sheer cliff and castle we detoured in for a drink at the bar we like there. Amazingly they were still serving food- it was by now 2. So temptation won and we had a two courser sitting out under the plane trees. Not refined but tasty.
