But first, departure... we left just after 7 am from our curiously situated Kyriad. It was obviously the former station hotel with huge plastic letters on top sayng HOTEL. In an American film noir they would have been flickering in pink neon! And opposite the station of course. No restaurants within walking distance except a Turkish Kebab House with a single tripadvisor glowing review. Presumably a family member. It was sweltering hot and we just about made it across the road to the station bar for a cool drink. Then decided we might just as well have our remaining sausage, egg and yoghurt in the room. With a cup of free tea and UHT milk so kindly supplied - don’t knock it, IBIS don’t do this.
So, anyway back to today. After about an hour we felt a breakfast stop was in order but the first town en route is Decazeville. How shall I say...well not picturesque! Ex mining and the houses on the outskirts look like Crediton. This only struck me today. Big square detatched jobs up off the road. Odd. Fortunately a hitherto unremarked village called St Christophe appeared on the road. It had a bar - open - and a boulangerie. And parking.
In the boulangerie behind glass I spotted small pasty shaped things. Not the pretty top-crimped ones that look like cowrie shells, no, the flat side-sealed ones that look dull. These were labelled Pruneaux (prunes), my very favourite thing. Had to try one! I enquired of the lady what they had in them, thinking it might be a nasty surprise with meat as well as prunes. Prunes she said as if I were a dolt - thought bubble ‘can the woman not read?’ Just prunes? Oui. Then she asked if I knew the prune. Of course - it is an especial favourite of mine. Ah, she replied, only a lot of people do not. Parisians for example...they have never heard of them. She then proceeded to give me a choice of either a chausson made with croissant dough or the flat pasty made with pâte brisée (short crust) but with no sugar as the prunes were sweet enough. I plumped for the latter.
We had our coffee and croissant and pain aux raisins - I was saving my treat for lunch! Then off on the long journey. Not interesting really as a stretch had to be Motorway today.
But the other side of Limoges we were back in the countryside and it was looking cooler. Grey clouds and swathes of crops - maize, sunflowers, hay meadows and cattle. Eventually we stopped by a fishing lake alongside the River Vienne just past the nuclear power station at Civaux with its white steam clouds. Adrian had his crisps and sausage but I had my pasty. Oh my what a delight. Pastry as light as can be and full of squashed proper prunes, not a purée. Even a stone! We must return to St Christophe.
Back on the road and a detour to Saumur Coop for fizz. Got lost in the backwaters as usual but trusty Michelin got us there and we saw much rural life! Along the Loire and the lovely crumbly white stone villages. Too many cyclists and camper vans. And into elegant Angers, deftly negotiating devastation, as all streets are blocked with tramway installation. Found the most inaccessible underground carpark just minutes from the hotel and were congratulated by Receptionist!
Tonight we seek out a previous crêperie. How much do you bet it is closed?!
